Gearbox or clutch?

[Legend@wheels]

Hi
Sometimes when i shift from 2nd to 3rd gear i get a weird feeling and hard to select the gear.
And it doesnt matter what rev i am.
Is it clutch related or gb?

 

[Kazumz]

I get it all the time, usually due to cold whether. I think you're okay [emoji5].

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[Foxspeed]

2 things...

bleeds the clutch...

change gearbox oil...

then try it again

 

[Legend@wheels]

Done both in the last 3-4 months lol

 

[Foxspeed]

Done both in the last 3-4 months lol

is it just difficult to go in... or does it "crunch/grate" at all...

 

[turkie172]

Try this when you change gear instead of easing back on the throttle, try to lift your foot off the throttle completely I'm having the same feeling with mine I'm thinking the clutch is not engaging completely so I'm going to try bleeding the clutch when I get the chance I'm going to change the gearbox mount first.

 

[turkie172]

Mine feels like it is not going to go in and there is no mechanical noise, or crunchy feel but since mine is all gears and not all the time I'm bending towards a clutch problem or adjustment needed. Because of all the gearbox issues on the form and what I understand from Renault master vans forcing a gear change is the road to disaster. My problem bleeding the clutch will be a second person I can trust to do the pedal inputs. I have a Sealy pressure bleeder but I'm waiting on 5L of genuine Renault brake fluid to arrive and I'm going to flush everything and rebuild the rear calipers and maybe fit the brand new front Calipers I bought 2 years ago and are still sitting in the boxes.

 

[tombate911]

Try this when you change gear instead of easing back on the throttle, try to lift your foot off the throttle completely I'm having the same feeling with mine I'm thinking the clutch is not engaging completely so I'm going to try bleeding the clutch when I get the chance I'm going to change the gearbox mount first.

I had a slight issue with hesitation going into 3rd. I upgraded all the engine and gear box mounts and bled the clutch, all of this made a difference but when really driving hard on track it still felt a little bit notchy going in. Doing exactly what you said and focusing on driving style made the biggest difference. Ensuring that I completely lifted my foot from the throttle and pushed the clutch right to the floor every time made the gear box feel completely smooth. I think sometimes we can get a little complacent and not realise the tiny things like that. I spotted I was slightly keeping my foot on the accelerator when on track when changing gear on the limit. I was obviously anticipating getting back on the power as quickly as possible.

Tom.

 

[Legend@wheels]

Yeah it does make sense.

About the mounts i got them all new.

 

[Legend@wheels]

is it just difficult to go in... or does it "crunch/grate" at all...

More likely difficult to select
Its not that often, it happened rarely .
Im not worried about it ,maybe its the small things like said above(foot from throttle).
Anyhow if it is not that .then its actually feels like a clutch related but the thing is that it was only happens at third gear thats why i was confused[emoji55]
Could a clutch slip only at one specific gear?

 

[turkie172]

OK got my 5L of brake fluid which is a good job as I used about 2.5L bleeding the clutch which I don't think was that bad (not a lot of air bubbles) and I changed the gearbox mount at the same time. Result is better gear change not absolutely perfect but less resistance going into gear and 5th 6th pulling hard at high revs is a lot better, the gearbox mount had some wear inside the cup at one side I'll get a pic. As for the brake fluid bleeding the clutch it's hard to reach and get a good grip on with a pressurised bleeder I got it released and pulled back a little to allow the bleeder to work but my problem was I thought I had clicked it back checked the pedal and it had no feel going back round the front a couple of times the fluid was flowing due to the pressurised bleeder I filled two jam jars and a empty 1/2 litre brake fluid bottle before I got the connector clicked all the way in to stop the flow but at least it's flushed my plan was to flush the hole bake system which I will do when I rebuild the internals of the rear calipers they past the MOT 4 days ago but I know the rubber boot has a rip so I have to remove the piston to replace it anyway.

 

[Legend@wheels]

OK got my 5L of brake fluid which is a good job as I used about 2.5L bleeding the clutch which I don't think was that bad (not a lot of air bubbles) and I changed the gearbox mount at the same time. Result is better gear change not absolutely perfect but less resistance going into gear and 5th 6th pulling hard at high revs is a lot better, the gearbox mount had some wear inside the cup at one side I'll get a pic. As for the brake fluid bleeding the clutch it's hard to reach and get a good grip on with a pressurised bleeder I got it released and pulled back a little to allow the bleeder to work but my problem was I thought I had clicked it back checked the pedal and it had no feel going back round the front a couple of times the fluid was flowing due to the pressurised bleeder I filled two jam jars and a empty 1/2 litre brake fluid bottle before I got the connector clicked all the way in to stop the flow but at least it's flushed my plan was to flush the hole bake system which I will do when I rebuild the internals of the rear calipers they past the MOT 4 days ago but I know the rubber boot has a rip so I have to remove the piston to replace it anyway.

Thats plenty of brake fluid spent .
To bleed the clutch you need about300-400ml.
And the brakes are900ml-1litre (if you havent change for long time use another 200-400ml for fully change).

 

[turkie172]

yea but like I said it was hard to figure out if the bleed connector was clicked back to closed and I've never tried to bleed a car hydraulic clutch before and from above its hard to push back on it might have been because the pressure bleeder kept the line pressurised (2bar) making it harder to click closed but without the bleeder I could get it done by myself.

 

[PAUL JA]

I tend to bleed the clutch from underneath, just take the under tray off and reach up !!

I also found that with an easibleed connected getting the connector back on was an issue therefore we now do it by manual pumping (down, up, down, up etc etc) and push the connector back on when down

Generally if we do a full brake and clutch bleed we use 1.5ltr