Thanks for the replys. I'll have them check it. Strange to happen on a car that has done 50 000 km but maybe it is the application that makes it prone to wear.
Engine movement
- Thread starter montana
- Start date
Seems that way. I'll just have to leave it alone until I've found a new dog bone. If this is the issue, I think I'll go for the one Ktec is selling, that should be the "Uprated lower stabilizer mount" that is the dog bone, correct?
Is the lower mount provided by KTec the solid mount in black on their website? Or is it better that I go with the inserts only instead of the complete dog bone? I'm a bit lost as you can see 
I only run my car during the summers (mean Winters in Sweden), so I like to deive actively but not near track-use! I'm just afraid that replacing only the bushes might not be enough, or that in is a more difficult procedure. If so I might as well go with the solid black one from KTec I guess?
I initially replaced my upper mount , still got a slight occasional jerk so also going to powerflex the lower one. Hopefully I won't regret running 2 powerflex mounts. These are the ones I went for
Torque arm (upper left as you look at engine )
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121370492786&alt=web
Dogbone
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121370492716&alt=web
Torque arm (upper left as you look at engine )
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121370492786&alt=web
Dogbone
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121370492716&alt=web
Your answers are really appreciated and help me alot! So am I to conclude that only the bushings may need changing and that the actual lower or upper mount in themselves are all right? In that case, yes, it would save me a lot of money if I can only replace the lower stabilizer bushings, and not the complete dog bone where the bushings are included.
Well, based om these answers I think I might as well order all the powerflex bushings and get them fitted. The upper arm shouldn't be difficult to fit, nor the dog bone bushings, but what about the last mount, the lower engine mount insert? Is this one difficult to change? This way I replace all the bushings and don't have to worry about the two stronger ones wearing out the weaker OEM one.
CallorFold
Platinum Member
Got my upper engine mounts changed today for the PowerFlex ones. I did the upper engine mount, and the torque mount. The car feels absolutely mint now, like a difference I never expected.
There are zero knocks or bangs, the gear change is absolutely perfect, and the engine seems to rev much better than it did before.
As for vibration - YES, there is noticeably more vibration. Mainly at idle, but I noticed when driving at 30, the middle mirior was slightly distorted from the vibration. Now, I assume they will bed in a little bit, they're fresh out the packet, but, IMO, the added vibration is absolutely 100% worth the better driving experience.
One thing I would say is though, it was an absolute pig of a job. The upper torque arm was very easy, the upper engine mount bush insert was an absolute *******. It took 2 of us (1 mechanic and me) about an hour or so to get both fitted. We had a jack under the engine to take the weight, and took every bit of effort to push the engine back and fourth to wiggle the mount out, getting it back in was even harder. We ended up loosening off the air-con pipes just to give us an extra few mm of wiggle room.
There are zero knocks or bangs, the gear change is absolutely perfect, and the engine seems to rev much better than it did before.
As for vibration - YES, there is noticeably more vibration. Mainly at idle, but I noticed when driving at 30, the middle mirior was slightly distorted from the vibration. Now, I assume they will bed in a little bit, they're fresh out the packet, but, IMO, the added vibration is absolutely 100% worth the better driving experience.
One thing I would say is though, it was an absolute pig of a job. The upper torque arm was very easy, the upper engine mount bush insert was an absolute *******. It took 2 of us (1 mechanic and me) about an hour or so to get both fitted. We had a jack under the engine to take the weight, and took every bit of effort to push the engine back and fourth to wiggle the mount out, getting it back in was even harder. We ended up loosening off the air-con pipes just to give us an extra few mm of wiggle room.
CallorFold
Platinum Member
Yeah the black frame thing, it was almost impossible to get that out of the engine bay. Between the aircon pipes, and the engine itself, there's barely any room at all. It was a massive struggle to get it both out, and back in again.
CallorFold
Platinum Member
So changing the upper (not torque arm) must be the one that gives the extra vibration.
Hated doing the upper torque arm on mine, the casing was a bitch to remove and i ended up marking the mount casing (and my RS emblem from a bar that slipped :thumbdown
I would say say that's a safe bet, it's the bit the bolts down to the chassis and the Powerflex insert is a very tight fit so it makes sense the vibration would be passed through.
We took the whole arm out and had it in a vice to remove the casing, that took some going at aswell!
