Big spec 200 Cup *FOR SALE*

needforspeed

Gold Member
So a brief intro, I wanted to start a build thread for myself to look back on and for any advice/help and things I may be doing wrong! Always had RS Turbos, Cosworths and an Mk Indy track car previously. I bought a 172 around a year ago for some cheap fun and after a few laps instantly got the bug back and needed a little more power without going crazy, so ended up with this 70k white 200 Cup. Obviously been primarily a track car judging by its battle scars and wear and tear etc!

Spec is fairly basic, Cobra exhaust, Gaz Golds w/adjustable top mounts. ds11.1F ds2500R HC discs with loads of life, r888rs toe/camber shims up rear etc etc

Here's a few pics when it landed and some of the progress so farF0835F76-1844-4291-B049-F9DC0D31EC64_1_105_c.jpegBC9BF94D-8B58-4D02-9B28-A0B947E6DED8_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The drive home when I collected it was nothing short of terrifying the geo was all over the place pulled all over! So I just decided to get stuck in and go right through it. Borrowed a ramp from a garage I do a lot of work for for a few weeks and set to! Wheels off, Send the Gaz Golds for a full check over the rear adjusters were almost fully seized.. Toyosport manifold. From what I've now been told these are far from ideal for power gains . . . after Id fitted it! Anyway all the studs pulled out of the head and a few were questionable so ran a tap down them all and refitted with a spot of loctiteE5A3C5A9-8312-477E-8FD6-6CB0262E460F.jpegC56B19F3-0C12-48E5-918F-A594807CCD77.jpeg7B0B202F-4D2A-4A53-B4FD-649BFFFDDD32.jpeg0DAE8E35-13CA-4DB5-AD00-7E86BCEFFBFF.jpeg65210E15-B8E9-46E1-96F2-B99B5F354D35.jpeg20C6AAA4-BF2A-4E91-9118-702D31A8BC00.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Before I started the big strip I checked the geo (never printed off the settings) but it was a holy mile out!! So while I have some rare ramp time the brakes and rear axle was removed, sent for sandblasting with a few other bits and bobs ready for the Pure strengthening kit with their spherical bearing conversion. The axle was straight so when it's back together and solid Il have a re measure and order the suitable shims for the rear.
There's so many threads on here regarding a good starting point it's hard to know where to start! Full on Cup settings seem very aggressive . . .5E1E2235-43DB-4403-B4C2-5AD8E976D5FC.jpegABF1A5DD-7440-4422-8111-AEB0613EE084.jpegF0BC45CE-A048-4734-AF7A-838AD3EBE96E.jpegF4481DAA-C654-4EA9-A145-452387F37116.jpeg9EA2DE3C-7F7A-4F9A-B236-847A017E49A8.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Again while apart I decided to send the calipers off for a proper refurb with BSC. Now this is a bit against the grain for me because I normally tackle them myself but hearing amazing things about them thought I'd bite the bullet! Full hit on the front and rears in Enamel with proper stencilled Brembo logos on the fronts and they're just perfect! Credit where it's due they have done an absolutely amazing job, highly recommended. Just bought the full front and rear rebuild kits from Frentech UK to finish them off!
Picture overload . . .EB1A5935-C0C1-487E-9D24-27E1A4171D6D.jpeg3F5786A3-4193-4D6F-9DDD-3A42489DE065.jpegD88ACCE1-A333-4A16-863A-F44AF2F2CAB1.jpeg7690DB4E-12CE-4677-8214-E10A16DCB412.jpeg48461D9F-DFDA-46A6-84A2-A811C4B7B55A.jpeg73E8FC76-4A46-4B77-A2FD-ACEC9D3F1875.jpegFC1B845E-876C-4002-AB41-F40FAF79BA71.jpeg4A608661-67E6-4A5E-9D0C-821A310F761F.jpegDE7E8B67-FF3F-4456-A507-0DA1D412DB6C.jpeg625FC6E6-9CD4-4A68-8B65-A08B24420DCA.jpeg50D1109B-C6D2-4CCF-B118-8F48601386B1.jpeg27B9EC91-236D-4E1F-982C-7E4B31576CBD.jpeg12867C55-47AC-4ECA-A8F3-BAECB6F05469.jpeg1B967D42-F571-4642-B064-AFAF99ADD485.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Front rad support was rotten so has been replaced and modded for a little weight reduction ready for powdercoat with the axle and rest of the bits now. Stud and nut kit from Pure, repaired many of the usual rotten fixings for the front bumper etc. Cleaned the rear diffuser up and bonded in some carbon tips from Pure. I think they'll look much better than the chrome. Luckily the front and rear HC discs are nearly new and run perfectly true when I dtid them so gave them a lick of enamel to tidy them up for now. Lets see how long it stays black for after they've got some heat on them!FA945281-C512-4FB7-837A-38398F1122D1_1_105_c.jpegF6BAB01D-FD1D-4A84-825E-55A255BEEE92_1_105_c.jpegF7B53316-E0C1-41E0-B574-C8F07275FFA1_1_105_c.jpegA5BCBE41-90B4-4127-9E7B-51926CF1D9B0_1_105_c.jpeg146ED730-59C5-4FCC-A98B-409F730475BD_1_105_c.jpeg84BB1306-3E61-4BCE-A631-3D3AB924D616_1_105_c.jpeg21681F15-5470-4B9F-AE67-ED5055E1D82A_1_105_c.jpegFBE46FED-CAF5-4E7D-819B-47374FC7560F_1_105_c.jpeg633420C5-E6CD-46F4-884C-7303BFEAA233_1_105_c.jpegE6520DF0-E7EC-42D9-BA55-60D14749ACB3_1_105_c.jpegE90C64CA-94B3-46B1-9911-7668121B99BB_1_105_c.jpeg6CAC25FD-378B-40E0-9795-C7915840CBD4_1_105_c.jpeg66024DDC-7D92-4952-A035-E858EC5625ED_1_105_c.jpegE0AE67EA-3F70-405D-95BD-BF3037FEC473_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Shocks are due back Monday so can get the axle welded up and everything powder coated grey. Brakes on, some new braided brake lines made up for the rear to accommodate the axle mods.
Gen Cup Racer wheels and spoiler will hopefully land next week also!
What engine/gearbox oil are all you guys running?
 
Nice progress!

Check out the Pure Motorsport exhaust manifold if you want to make power. As for oil, I am running Motul 5w-40 300v, which burns off a bit more than the standard Elf, but so far no issues with cold performance or anything. Transmission I am running the standard Elf, as I have tried Titan and Castrol and both have drawbacks to daily and track use.
 
Shocks are due back Monday so can get the axle welded up and everything powder coated grey. Brakes on, some new braided brake lines made up for the rear to accommodate the axle mods.
Gen Cup Racer wheels and spoiler will hopefully land next week also!
What engine/gearbox oil are all you guys running?
Great intro. Loads going on!
Gearbox oil Elf NFP or Redline MTL are popular. Engine oil most buy from renaultpartsdirect but seen pretty much every brand used as long as it’s right grade.
Did you send shocks direct to Gaz? I run them as well and dare say they’ll need attention eventually
 
Looks good mate, lots of bits to keep you busy!! I’m tempted to do the conversion to the rear beam next once I’ve finished the front subframe conversion to cup racer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: needforspeed
Front rad support was rotten so has been replaced and weight reduced ready for powdercoat with the axle and rest of the bits now. Stud and nut kit from Pure, repaired many rotten fixings for the front bumper etc. Cleaned the rear diffuser up and fitted some carbon tips from Pure. I think they'll look much better than the chrome.
 
Thanks for the comments! What are the differences between the cup and standard subframes? That was the joy of my previous kit cars, all the pick ups were rose jointed so could literally adjust everything to suit! Again Im new to the Clios so will take the advice on the oils. Booked Blyton for a full weekend in September to get a proper feel for the car and go from there. Probably a Gripper or Quaife soon after that.
 
Nice progress!

Check out the Pure Motorsport exhaust manifold if you want to make power. As for oil, I am running Motul 5w-40 300v, which burns off a bit more than the standard Elf, but so far no issues with cold performance or anything. Transmission I am running the standard Elf, as I have tried Titan and Castrol and both have drawbacks to daily and track use.
Possibly in the future yes, I think Id rather put my money into a diff before a proper manifold. They're big bucks! This cheap toys already spiraling out of control haha!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dinny1395
Great intro. Loads going on!
Gearbox oil Elf NFP or Redline MTL are popular. Engine oil most buy from renaultpartsdirect but seen pretty much every brand used as long as it’s right grade.
Did you send shocks direct to Gaz? I run them as well and dare say they’ll need attention eventually
Yes I've run Gaz on a few of my cars and they're great for the money. They've only charged £230 for all four corners great value!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Big Ben
Thanks for the comments! What are the differences between the cup and standard subframes? That was the joy of my previous kit cars, all the pick ups were rose jointed so could literally adjust everything to suit! Again Im new to the Clios so will take the advice on the oils. Booked Blyton for a full weekend in September to get a proper feel for the car and go from there. Probably a Gripper or Quaife soon after that.

They have solid mounts in the subframe instead of rubber. Have support bars that go to the bottom of the chassis leg and no rad support going to the subframe which I guess is what you will be doing already. They also have spacers to lift the rack slightly as part of a bump steer kit. I think they also have some sections seam welded too.

Rentune make an upgraded subframe as the only worry with some cup racers are that they may have had a prang.
d54e0982d4b397aae2973ec63a44265f.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: needforspeed
I need to think about that rear beam upgrade at some point.

Not wanting to burst your bubble but if you had a 172 and wanted more power then you might be disappointed with the 197/200. It's really no quicker than the 172/182 on track, but the chassis is stiffer, brakes generally better etc. For power gains you've got to cam it, better breathing, mapping etc - all the normal stuff. The next step onwards would be a Meg engine conversion, but some who have gone down that route miss the raw feeling an NA gives.

Looks like you're getting stuck in anyway. Toyo manifold isn't too bad for the money - I ran one for a few track days before moving to the KTec manifold.

Good luck
 
Not at all, all comments are more than welcome! Basically I've always been into cars it's my job, fairly big power Cosworth, 2 fair Civics then an MK Indy R I went all out on which is probably the quickest well balanced car I've owned and close to what I've driven with work . . . A friend had a 290hp Meglio and one with a 300hp 20v Audi Turbo lump in particular. My forward thinking was either go balls out again OR rather than keep throwing money at the 172 buy the 200 cup be subtle then if I properly get the bug again then the options are there. Obviously everyone has their opinion but from what I've seen the 200 chassis is much more capable at 200+bhp than the older cars without serious suspension etc. At this point I'm just enjoying having a play again :smile:
 
Yep, that makes more sense. The 197/200 has a stiffer chassis than the older 172/182, and a good starting position for what you have planned :smile:
 
Few more pics, just finished the beam ready for powder coating. The axle kit is really good value for money, great fit

Please share an update once she's on the road! I recall one guy on here thought this kit induced too much understeer on his track day you. I'm interested to see other thoughts from users.