Best gear oil to reduce gear crunching?

My gearbox crunches when i shift into 3rd. Its getting a right pain in the ass now and it seems to be getting worse! I want to change the gear oil to see if that makes any improvements. Im not going to bother replacing the gearbox. Just dont have that sort of money.

Whats the best gear oil to use to reduce the crunching???

Reece..
 
Motul GEAR Competition 75W-140 . Only problem is that it needs heating . Once it is heated you wont EVER need to worry :smile:

Racing lubricant for limited slip differential
integrated in the gearbox or not.
100% Synthetic – Ester based
Specially designed for racing vehicle gearboxes : speed way, rallye, raid…
All hypoïd differentials with limited slip system, gearbox with integrated limited slip differential, mechanical transmission, synchronised or not synchronised gearboxes, transfer gearboxes operating under shocks, heavy loads and low revolution speed or moderate loads and high revolution speed.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-900-motul-gear-competition-75w-140-racing-lubricant-for-limited-slip-differential.aspx
 
if you go to a 140 oil you probably wont get a gear when its cold.....

the synchro hubs/bualk rings are already worn and you cant put metal back by changing an oil at best you can only "mask" the issue

whatever oil you use let us know how you go on :thumbup:
 
Drain the oil .... see if there are metal parts inside in the oil. Of they are .... start looking for a new gearbox and kick the living sh*t out of this one :smile:
 
Gearbox Oil

Redline Shockproof Lightweight or you could try their normal MTL or MT90. Ive used them and seen amazing results with elimination of crunching syncros.
 
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I understand this is a very old thread but can anyone else confirm changing oil makes a difference in crunching gear changes?

I bought my 200 cup about a month ago, at 75K miles with gearbox 'rebuilt' at 68K. The fact that gearbox was reconditioned / rebuilt was one of the major reasons for choosing this particular car. Gearbox had been very sweet and smooth until this evening when the 3rd gear began crunching during the evening session at Brands Hatch. Being my first track day after 9 years, I was a naturally excited and drove the car a little hard but did not do anything stupid, missed gears etc.

I am really struggling to understand how a very recently reconditioned gearbox could give up on one of it's syncros in less than 1.5 hours of hard driving (and that's with taking regular brakes). Do you reckon the job was not done correctly, because if not, this could as well mean gearbox reconditioning every 5-10 track days even if I change gears more gently!? In comparison the last car I tracked, a 2001 Impreza WRX (again bought 2nd hand and gearbox known to be the soft spot) took 3 years of constant beating before giving up on 3rd and 4th syncros. And that was when I was 25, living in Istanbul, driving like a race driver (!!) non-stop.

Perhaps it'll be fine once properly cooled down (tomorrow) and with new / better oil?
 
I understand this is a very old thread but can anyone else confirm changing oil makes a difference in crunching gear changes?

I bought my 200 cup about a month ago, at 75K miles with gearbox 'rebuilt' at 68K. The fact that gearbox was reconditioned / rebuilt was one of the major reasons for choosing this particular car. Gearbox had been very sweet and smooth until this evening when the 3rd gear began crunching during the evening session at Brands Hatch. Being my first track day after 9 years, I was a naturally excited and drove the car a little hard but did not do anything stupid, missed gears etc.

I am really struggling to understand how a very recently reconditioned gearbox could give up on one of it's syncros in less than 1.5 hours of hard driving (and that's with taking regular brakes). Do you reckon the job was not done correctly, because if not, this could as well mean gearbox reconditioning every 5-10 track days even if I change gears more gently!? In comparison the last car I tracked, a 2001 Impreza WRX (again bought 2nd hand and gearbox known to be the soft spot) took 3 years of constant beating before giving up on 3rd and 4th syncros. And that was when I was 25, living in Istanbul, driving like a race driver (!!) non-stop.

Perhaps it'll be fine once properly cooled down (tomorrow) and with new / better oil?


same thing happened to me, i'm sorry to say. freshly rebuild gearbox (1500km max), first time out on track, crunch in fourth gear. luckily got it replaced under warranty again. job was done by a specialist renault dealer (twice).

changing oil first time didn't help, but then they added 'nulon G70' to the oil and the very harsh crunch became a lot less uncomfortable. still had the gearbox replaced though. so, if the crunch on your car is not severe ... worth a try, i think.

this was two years ago now. since then no issues (touch wood) and took the car on track for about twenty hours total.
 
An update on this: I've replaced the gearbox oil with "Red Line MTL Synchromesh Manual Gearbox Oil Fluid 75W80" (https://goo.gl/1jD7ai) and there's definitely some improvement. 3rd now crunches very lightly only when changing really carelessly. Act slightly gentler and it's fine. This is on fast road use though, will report again when I'm back on track.
 
An update on this: I've replaced the gearbox oil with "Red Line MTL Synchromesh Manual Gearbox Oil Fluid 75W80" (https://goo.gl/1jD7ai) and there's definitely some improvement. 3rd now crunches very lightly only when changing really carelessly. Act slightly gentler and it's fine. This is on fast road use though, will report again when I'm back on track.

Exactly the same for me, I had a really bad crunch into 3rd no matter how slow or gentle you were and now I can slam it with no noise. The downside is 4th is a bit stiff at high rpms, but a good old tug and it goes in, without crunch too.

Didn't work initially but has improved over time.


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Exactly the same for me, I had a really bad crunch into 3rd no matter how slow or gentle you were and now I can slam it with no noise. The downside is 4th is a bit stiff at high rpms, but a good old tug and it goes in, without crunch too.

Didn't work initially but has improved over time.


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Interesting you say that because soon after changing the oil I caught myself changing from 6th to 2nd instead of 4th TWICE in a day. I had never done this in any car I've driven before and didn't think it would be due to the new oil at the time but thinking about it now, 4th was actually quite stiff after the oil change but seems to be better now, after a couple of thousand miles.
 
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Exactly the same for me, I had a really bad crunch into 3rd no matter how slow or gentle you were and now I can slam it with no noise. The downside is 4th is a bit stiff at high rpms, but a good old tug and it goes in, without crunch too.

Didn't work initially but has improved over time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That's interesting.......

And good to hear of course.

How much is a couple of litres of Redline ?
 
Our experience of Redline MTL was positive until the car was used on track, after a hard session or two the box became 'knotchy' again.

In the end we opted for castrol syntrans 75/90 this giving us the best gear change out of all the oils used (We tried Fuchs, MTL, Reno')

Also - it's worth bleeding the clutch to eliminate that as the cause of the crunch.
 
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Our experience of Redline MTL was positive until the car was used on track, after a hard session or two the box became 'knotchy' again.

In the end we opted for castrol syntrans 75/90 this giving us the best gear change out of all the oils used (We tried Fuchs, MTL, Reno')

Thanks for the info Paul.

On the flip side: Would there be any detriment using that oil solely on the road ?