Gordan the Gordini

Discussion in 'Projects/Progress Threads' started by Kazumz, Jul 1, 2014.

  1. Jimmy

    Jimmy Good cop Administrator

    The most common and popular three mounts are:

    Upper torque arm
    Lower engine
    Gearbox

    There is also the Upper Engine, however this one in particular is known to cause the most vibrations - they all do cause vibrations, however they do tend to go away after several hundred miles. They cost ~£30 each, they can be fitted DIY if you are reasonably competent with spanners (and there are guides available on the forum), however garage labour costs aren't massive.
     
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  2. Jimmy

    Jimmy Good cop Administrator

  3. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    That's it. Installation is easy, I'm not mechanically minded or confident at all and I've done it on two cars now.

    The torque arm is the easiest, any other mount and your talking about supporting the engine weight etc. With this, it's just taking the arm off and switching it over the popping it back on.

    You'll need a torque wrench and a dremel.

    You'll need to remove the wipers and shroud underneath to get access to the top torque arm bolt, that's simple enough and let's you clean the drain holes while you're there.

    Then simply take the arm off, by undoing bolt on the arm connected to the engine and only slight undoing the top bolt so this gives you the ability to get the arm to swing out and allows you to pull hard without you going flying. Then undo the top bolt once the arm has released from the engine and pull the entire arm out.

    Use the dremel to cut the collar off holding the old rubber mount in, just takes patience. Once you've cut enough metal, pull the collar tabs out and it'll eventually fall off once you get round to them all.

    Take the old mount out, pop the new mount in following the instructions provided and put it all back together. Torque arm bolts need to be torqued to 105nm if I remember correctly.

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  4. Antti O

    Antti O Gold Member

    Mikkeli, Finland
    Clio 197 Ultra red 2007
    Okay thank you for instructions, how bad vibrations compared to oem rubber part?
     
  5. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    You'll feel it through the steering wheel and that's literally it, it doesn't ruin the car in the slightest. I was worried about this also, but it literally just makes the car feel and drive more responsive. I can only describe it as "it makes the car feel less numb".

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  6. Big Ben

    Big Ben Paid Member

    Herts
    197
    Noticeable vibrations at first but settle down within 2-300 miles. Worth it though to protect manifold and makes gear changing more stable with less rock. A must do upgrade imo
     
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  7. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    For 30 quid, which is what I've paid, out of all the modifications, it's the best. Will save you money down the line as a preventive measure for the manifold also.

    I didn't really have any vibrations if I'm honest. I probably didn't notice it. I just took it for a drive afterwards and was massively impressed. My friend was impressed with how much good it brings also. Can't recommend it enough. I should be a salesman for powerflex lmao!

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
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  8. Antti O

    Antti O Gold Member

    Mikkeli, Finland
    Clio 197 Ultra red 2007
    1 polybush kit bought.. i tell how it feels when it is installed.
    Thanks guys
     
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  9. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    A friend of mine visited Mexico recently too...

    https://vid.me/BN1k

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    Hello hello!

    Just had the car serviced last week.

    So, I've run Millers Nanodrive @ 5.5L for the last 2 or 3 services if I remember correctly, serviced at 6000 miles. I can only say that using that oil has been tremendous and I did indeed notice the smoothness of the engine once I had put it in. However, if left after 6000 miles, it goes downhill fast; you'll eventually lose the smoothness. I can attest, before anyone mentions, that I do rag the balls off the car in all the right ways and I believe that putting in the best of oils will serve me better in the future once Gordan becomes a high miler. He's currently sitting at 35,000 Miles, so plenty of time.

    Anyway, for this service I spotted a deal for Shell Helix Ultra on OpieOils; for £20 I get 6L and a pouch for the 1L that comes with the 5L, great! I thought that it was such a good deal that when I went to add Nanodrive to my cart and saw the numbers above £50 just for oil, I thought nope! Time to try something new. Google incoming and research done, I thought that Shell Helix Ultra would be the perfect fit; it keeps the engine clean due to being made from Natural Gas and has been designed to be a high-end Shell Tier Oil.

    I also thought that I'd try some proper top end gearbox oil, since it doesn't really need changing at all once some good stuff has been put in there; more of an experiment. I went ahead and picked up some Millers TRX Synth GL5.

    For brake fluid, this isn't a track car, so I thought some normal Castrol DOT 4 would do. I picked up 2L of the stuff and I've got a bottle completely unopened under the stairs, doh!

    So, the results...

    The engine oil, I'd actually put on par with the Nanodrive stuff. It's not nanodrive, but it's close. There was certainly an increase in smoothness due to the oil being fresh. Overall, I'd say it's a brilliant deal and if they say it cleans the engine more efficiently, then I'll take their word for it. Shell hasn't been a brand on my BS list for a long time. Most would say snake oil, but don't hate me for it. Even if it is all placebo in the end, at least I can sleep soundly at night!

    The gearbox oil, holy poo! What a difference! When I had the car at 12K Miles, it used to crunch in every gear, it was fairly nasty; a proper lemon gearbox. I had the oil changed to some FUCHS Titan Sintofluid just after I got Gordan and have had that in until now and it made the world of difference. However, going over to Millers has further backed up my faith in them. While FUCHS are good, Millers is most certainly better! The gear shifts now feel like they are bumping in to a cushion, it genuinely feels smoother.

    The brake fluid, brilliant. All I can say! I had the original brake fluid in there for 6 years and this month it really felt like a spounge. Back to normal again now! Face in the dashboard!
     
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  11. sevenfourate

    sevenfourate Devotee of OCD Moderator

    Lowestoft, England.
    Racing Blue RS-200
    Engine and gearbox oil duly noted and saved.

    Bet the car feels transformed somewhat !
     
  12. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    Yep, and I managed to save a ton of money in the process! Heck of a deal for 6L of oil. I believe that the Millers stuff is even better again, but for £30 quid difference, I couldn't say no.
     
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  13. Antti O

    Antti O Gold Member

    Mikkeli, Finland
    Clio 197 Ultra red 2007
    Shell helix ultra is just fine, we have drove my wifes clio many years. Never had any problems, and it is quite good brand. In my opinion, you can use any kind of good brand 5w-40 oil in clio rs. Better if it has Renault specification.
    I am currently running Castrol magnatec c3 5w-40 because i had good deal for 6 litres.
     
  14. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    Thanks for your input, to know I made a good choice from someone who has used it before me is even beter!
     
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  15. DS197

    DS197 POTM Winner - June 2017 Paid Member

    Clio 197
    +1. I've used it for both services that i've done so far and the current offer on OpieOils is great! You won't go wrong with it. Good to see you about mate, you should pop in more often :smile:
     
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  16. Chris

    Chris Bad cop Administrator

    Nice one Kaz :smile:

    Good guys at opie - always have good deals on! Won't go wrong with shell mate :smile:
     
  17. Jimmy

    Jimmy Good cop Administrator

    Good to see you back Kaz, and good to hear that Gordan is running top notch after the service! Great info on the oils as well, always interesting to hear feedback on products that are alternatives to the 'norm'.
     
  18. Kazumz

    Kazumz Paid Member

    Wiltshire/Swansea
    Clio RS 200 Gordini
    Well, summer is here and so is Gordans issues!

    Last week the Drivers seatbelt permenantly locked itself in, so I couldn't pull it out and over me to plug it in. I managed to get it out and held it on with a clothes peg. On the weekend I decided to try and chance it to see if it was fixed, and wallah, french gods have struck and it's sorted. A bit strange, because it is certainly over sensitive to locking so I'm going to replace it when it actually fails. I think the french gods have just given me a bit more time with it that's all.

    On another note, the drivers keyless locking button has decided to become intermittent. It'll lock maybe once out of ten times, so I'm looking to get that replaced ASAP. I took the door card off on Friday due to the glorious weather and thought I'd also buy some Door/Glass Seals, to replace the ones that are in tatters and while I was there I bought some RenaultSport mats for £60; something I've wanted for a long time. Hopefully these mats avoid the hole in carpet by the clutch getting any bigger lol!

    Someone has popped me a link to a guide to remove the door handle so it's just actually sourcing one now that's the issue.

    First time I've worked on the car myself, usually I take it to the garage so I can have an invoice to show things have been done (if there will ever be another owner) but I can't be bothered to fork out £££ so I'm going to replace the door handle myself, apart from painful fingers, some paint scratches and lots of swearing, it seems quite straight forward.

    The drivers seatbelt, looking at the plastics, is going to be a nightmare. I wish there was a simple cover over the mechanism, but it's firmly behind the quarter panel plastic... argh. I need to invest in a plastic pulley thing to avoid scratching the paint more.

    Will post some pictures once it's all here.
     
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  19. Jimmy

    Jimmy Good cop Administrator

    Good luck with it all Kaz, and good on you for giving it all a go yourself!
     
  20. Christopher

    Christopher Paid Member

    755
    Manchester
    200 Clubsport
    Fairly easy job on both parts. The seat belt mech is awkward to get to, but once you've removed all the plastics it's very easy.
     

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