06 Albi Blue 197
- Thread starter RalphyBMW
- Start date
Boot net is a genuine one, just got it from eBay, but not from a Renault dealer.
Pics will be coming soon, I promise.
Dent man came today, dentvanish, did an excellent job, on both cars. Unfortunately to get to one of the rears, I had to remove one of the quarter panels, which was an awful job! Plus I think when you fold the seats, the headrests catch on the hinge loop bit, pulling the fabric, which is very poor design.
Also changed the drivers door handle, which was a bit awkward, but I suspect if I had to do it again, it would take less time.
Since picking up the car last week, it has done around 800 miles, and been mauled in a workshop, and by the dent man, so it is looking pretty grubby at the moment. With a bit of luck I will get chance to give it a wash this w/e, and take a few pics.
I have a tiny bit of wiring to finish for the phone/iPod install, I need to finish improving the package tray, and need to collect / fit the drivers side anti-rattle clip. If/when the car gets washed, I am going to go around with the touch up brush and do a bit of tidying.
I haven't received the dash braket yet, so can't fit the charging cradle, but hopefully that can be sorted early next week. Then I need to shop around to get the wheels refurbished. I am thinking about just using one of the wheel exchange services, that way I can give the wheels a bit of a protective polish first.
It's all go!
Oh, and averaged 33.6mpg out of a tank today, quite pleased with that!
Pics will be coming soon, I promise.
Dent man came today, dentvanish, did an excellent job, on both cars. Unfortunately to get to one of the rears, I had to remove one of the quarter panels, which was an awful job! Plus I think when you fold the seats, the headrests catch on the hinge loop bit, pulling the fabric, which is very poor design.
Also changed the drivers door handle, which was a bit awkward, but I suspect if I had to do it again, it would take less time.
Since picking up the car last week, it has done around 800 miles, and been mauled in a workshop, and by the dent man, so it is looking pretty grubby at the moment. With a bit of luck I will get chance to give it a wash this w/e, and take a few pics.
I have a tiny bit of wiring to finish for the phone/iPod install, I need to finish improving the package tray, and need to collect / fit the drivers side anti-rattle clip. If/when the car gets washed, I am going to go around with the touch up brush and do a bit of tidying.
I haven't received the dash braket yet, so can't fit the charging cradle, but hopefully that can be sorted early next week. Then I need to shop around to get the wheels refurbished. I am thinking about just using one of the wheel exchange services, that way I can give the wheels a bit of a protective polish first.
It's all go!
Oh, and averaged 33.6mpg out of a tank today, quite pleased with that!
Bizarre, I can't find any now! I think I just searched for "Clio Boot Net"
Seller I got mine from appeared to be a Suzuki dealer, here is the link;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250656128085&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Seller I got mine from appeared to be a Suzuki dealer, here is the link;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250656128085&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Ok, time for a few pics, these are just some tit bits, the car is still very grubby and badly needs a wash;
Parrot kit display;
Controller;
Wiring into glovebox;
RenaultSport registration plates;
Cabasse rear speaker grilles;
Tidy boot!
Not achieved much else, need to find the time (and courage) to swap the steering wheel, but not sure if that will get done this w/e.
Parrot kit display;
Controller;
Wiring into glovebox;
RenaultSport registration plates;
Cabasse rear speaker grilles;
Tidy boot!
Not achieved much else, need to find the time (and courage) to swap the steering wheel, but not sure if that will get done this w/e.
I think it was about £60-65, and yes (thankfully!).
Didn't realise how worn my old one was until I removed it, a lot of the paint had rubbed off on the inside.
If you fancy attempting it, this is how to do it;
Remove grommet at the end of door, just below the level of the door handle
Remove trim to inside of exterior mirror (just tugs off, toward the centre of the car)
The door trim is held in place by;
2 x screw behind speaker (gently tug around the edges, remove grille, 2 x screw to remove speaker, disconnect and set aside, with grille)
2 x bolt in door pull cover (IIRC the cover pulls toward the rear of the car; don't try removing the mirror switch first, you will just damage the trim, disconnect mirror switch, set aside)
2 x screw at bottom of door trim
1 x bolt behind door lever
All of the above fittings are torx, the bolts are larger, screws smaller.
Work around the edge of the door trim, tugging sharply. Before removing, reach up and disconnect the lamp assembly.
With the door card released, lift it up to detach from the door, then disconnect the power window switch assembly.
Set aside door card/trim.
The inside of the door has a thin lining, using a sharp knife, make an L shaped cut into the access nearest to the handle, and also into the one lower down, closer to the middle of the door. You will need to tape these up with duct tape when you have finished.
The access hole in the end of the door reveals a hex head screw. Releasing this will allow the rear end section of the handle (where the lock barrel would go) to be removed. I am not sure how crucial this is to changing the handle itself, but a new one comes in the kit, along with a new rubber gasket, so why not?
Disconnect the electrical connector below the front of the handle - you need two hands for this one, hence the second access hole.
Next is to release the rear of the handle section (the bit that pulls out), there doesn't seem to be any easy solution here, pull it out with one hand and wiggle with the other.
Once the rear is out, removing the front is pretty straightforward, but you may need to guide the cable out a bit.
Refitting is the reverse!
Be careful as the window runner by the handle, is very sharp!
Didn't realise how worn my old one was until I removed it, a lot of the paint had rubbed off on the inside.
If you fancy attempting it, this is how to do it;
Remove grommet at the end of door, just below the level of the door handle
Remove trim to inside of exterior mirror (just tugs off, toward the centre of the car)
The door trim is held in place by;
2 x screw behind speaker (gently tug around the edges, remove grille, 2 x screw to remove speaker, disconnect and set aside, with grille)
2 x bolt in door pull cover (IIRC the cover pulls toward the rear of the car; don't try removing the mirror switch first, you will just damage the trim, disconnect mirror switch, set aside)
2 x screw at bottom of door trim
1 x bolt behind door lever
All of the above fittings are torx, the bolts are larger, screws smaller.
Work around the edge of the door trim, tugging sharply. Before removing, reach up and disconnect the lamp assembly.
With the door card released, lift it up to detach from the door, then disconnect the power window switch assembly.
Set aside door card/trim.
The inside of the door has a thin lining, using a sharp knife, make an L shaped cut into the access nearest to the handle, and also into the one lower down, closer to the middle of the door. You will need to tape these up with duct tape when you have finished.
The access hole in the end of the door reveals a hex head screw. Releasing this will allow the rear end section of the handle (where the lock barrel would go) to be removed. I am not sure how crucial this is to changing the handle itself, but a new one comes in the kit, along with a new rubber gasket, so why not?
Disconnect the electrical connector below the front of the handle - you need two hands for this one, hence the second access hole.
Next is to release the rear of the handle section (the bit that pulls out), there doesn't seem to be any easy solution here, pull it out with one hand and wiggle with the other.
Once the rear is out, removing the front is pretty straightforward, but you may need to guide the cable out a bit.
Refitting is the reverse!
Be careful as the window runner by the handle, is very sharp!
The display lifts off very easily, so can be removed / hidden; it is a bit small for a nav though, but I know what you mean.
The tyre weld has had two strips of self-adhesive velcro wrapped around it, the hook part, rather than the loop part. I have probably done around 500 miles since I did it, and it has been fine.
The tyre weld has had two strips of self-adhesive velcro wrapped around it, the hook part, rather than the loop part. I have probably done around 500 miles since I did it, and it has been fine.
Ye, just searched and only 1 came up, the same seller as who you had yours from. So I bought it quick! Lol! Glad he does quick delivery, will be next week for mine now obvs. Going to try some velcro in a bit on my bottle, I've only got some small sqaures of it though.
Small squares probably won't work, especially with the warm weather.
Try this;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Velcro-Hook-L...rkingTools_Accessories_SM&hash=item1c139de29d
I have plenty knocking about as I use it for all sorts of (usually car related) stuff.
Try this;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Velcro-Hook-L...rkingTools_Accessories_SM&hash=item1c139de29d
I have plenty knocking about as I use it for all sorts of (usually car related) stuff.
Finally, the little car got a wash;
scrubs up quite well!
Bodywork isn't in a bad state, considering the mileage, clayed a couple of bits and they came up well. Only thing that annoyed me was that it appears the leading edge of the drivers door has been catching the wing ever so slightly. The panel gap at the trailing edge of the door is much larger than at the leading edge, on both sides. Perhaps something for others to check?
Any idea how to alter the alignment of the door ever so slightly?
scrubs up quite well!
Bodywork isn't in a bad state, considering the mileage, clayed a couple of bits and they came up well. Only thing that annoyed me was that it appears the leading edge of the drivers door has been catching the wing ever so slightly. The panel gap at the trailing edge of the door is much larger than at the leading edge, on both sides. Perhaps something for others to check?
Any idea how to alter the alignment of the door ever so slightly?
Fitted the phone cradle last night, and got my RS mats in too.
The phone cradle needs to be hard wired, but in the meantime, because I didn't have the time last night to do that, and need to work out what else needs wiring in, I have just fitted it using a cigar lighter power adaptor, hence the trailing wires.
Phone cradle
Self-adhesive velcro on the rear of the drivers floor mat; if I was doing it again, the bit at the very end of the mat, near the pedals, would be put somewhere else - I had forgotten how far the plastic heel pad goes.
Interior, showing mats and phone bracket
The phone cradle needs to be hard wired, but in the meantime, because I didn't have the time last night to do that, and need to work out what else needs wiring in, I have just fitted it using a cigar lighter power adaptor, hence the trailing wires.
Phone cradle
Self-adhesive velcro on the rear of the drivers floor mat; if I was doing it again, the bit at the very end of the mat, near the pedals, would be put somewhere else - I had forgotten how far the plastic heel pad goes.
Interior, showing mats and phone bracket
Just thought this might be some useful info for anyone with Cabasse, thinking about adding an external device.
The Parrot kit has a line-out, in the form of four loose wires, representing right +, right -, left + and let -. When I fitted the same kit to the Honda, I was bemoaning the lack of plugs, but with Cabasse, it is actually handy as you can wire these (need to extend them first) directly into the red plug into the underseat stereo unit.
For reference, the rellevant pins are as follows;
27 ground
28 right
29 ground
30 left
If you remove the grey clip from the plug, you will see that one side is already partially populated. We are interested in the other side, where position 30 is the diagonally opposite the populated area, i.e. the opposite side, and opposite end.
Rather than cutting the plug, I cut up an PC internal audio cable, fitted insulated connections, and inserted the brass sockets from the PC cable into the red plug.
The parts that I used to fit the Parrot kit were;
Parrot Mki9200
2.5m double ISO extension loom
5m dual core wire (to extend line-out)
2.5m single core wire (to extend phone mute)
Various bullet type insulated closures
PC audio cable, with four pins populated
Stereo removal tools
Various cable ties
Disconnect negative terminal of battery
Remove & disconnect dash mounted head unit
Remove & disconnect Cabasse unit under drivers seat
Remove side access panel on drivers seat
Disconnect airbag plug
Detach seat wiring from rear of Cabasse mounting
Undo 4 x torx bolt securing drivers seat
Remove drivers seat
Remove interior trim at bottom of drivers door, to kick panel
Remove door rubber alongside drivers A Pillar
From the Parrot kit, take the microphone, remove the self adhesive mounting and instead fit the slide clip mounting, fit the mic above the rear view mirror, guide the wiring just inside the headlining, around the top of the A pillar (this is tricky) then down the A pillar and refit the door rubber here to secure. Run the wire down to the drivers footwell area.
Assuming you are going to fit the screen where I put it, this is also a great opportunity to do that and again guide the wiring, behind the door rubber, down to the drivers footwell.
Take the Parrot wiring loom and connect it to the ISO extension. The mute wire isn't populated on the extension, connect it to the the extra single core wire with an insulated closure, then along ISO extension to extend the phone mute. The line-out wires also need to be extended, so take the 5m of dual core wire, cut to 2 x 2.5m, and use to extend the line-out wiring. You can now fix these additional wires to the rest of the ISO extension harness. Take note of the mute wiring on the Parrot loom, the Clio (like most modern Renaults, I believe) uses mute position 3. Confirm which wire this is at the stereo end of the extension, and you will need to chop the existing wire (it doesn't do anything as that wire isn't populated on the car loom) and join to your extended mute wire, so it connects to the headunit.
Take your PC audio cable, chop the connectors out of the plug, join them to the extended line out wiring, and push into the respective positions on the unpopulated side of the red plug.
Connect the ISO extension to the car loom, run it under the carpet, along the bottom of the door aperture, and up the drivers kick panel. Secure using existing clips where possible.
Reach down through the stereo aperture, while reaching up from the footwell, and pull the Parrot loom into the stereo aperture. This is awkward, I cheated by pushing the cable for my Scangauge down through the hole, and taping it to the Parrot loom so I could pull it up. Do the same with the wiring for the microphone and screen. Connect up to the Parrot blue box.
Using a conical hole saw, drill a hole in the side of the glove compartment for the input wiring. Push the plug through and pull if from inside the stereo aperture. Connect to the Parrot blue box.
There is enough space to mount the Parrot box to the rear of the audio aperture, tuck it away, reconnect the head unit part, and refit.
Tidy up the excess loose wiring and secure to the bottom of the dash using cable ties, so it is all nicely tucked away.
Refit drivers seat, reconnect airbag (it is awkward to get the wiring back into place), push stereo wiring through the back of the Cabasse aperture, to the front, and reconnect Cabasse. Push Cabasse unit back into place, with a hand at the back to try to keep the wiring tidy. In all probability you won't be able to refit the rear cover on the Cabasse unit, due to all of the ISO plugs, etc. but this shouldn't be a problem.
Reconnect battery, enter radio code, pair phone, connect iPod, marvel at your success!
Anything that doesn't make sense, please ask, thanks for reading.
The Parrot kit has a line-out, in the form of four loose wires, representing right +, right -, left + and let -. When I fitted the same kit to the Honda, I was bemoaning the lack of plugs, but with Cabasse, it is actually handy as you can wire these (need to extend them first) directly into the red plug into the underseat stereo unit.
For reference, the rellevant pins are as follows;
27 ground
28 right
29 ground
30 left
If you remove the grey clip from the plug, you will see that one side is already partially populated. We are interested in the other side, where position 30 is the diagonally opposite the populated area, i.e. the opposite side, and opposite end.
Rather than cutting the plug, I cut up an PC internal audio cable, fitted insulated connections, and inserted the brass sockets from the PC cable into the red plug.
The parts that I used to fit the Parrot kit were;
Parrot Mki9200
2.5m double ISO extension loom
5m dual core wire (to extend line-out)
2.5m single core wire (to extend phone mute)
Various bullet type insulated closures
PC audio cable, with four pins populated
Stereo removal tools
Various cable ties
Disconnect negative terminal of battery
Remove & disconnect dash mounted head unit
Remove & disconnect Cabasse unit under drivers seat
Remove side access panel on drivers seat
Disconnect airbag plug
Detach seat wiring from rear of Cabasse mounting
Undo 4 x torx bolt securing drivers seat
Remove drivers seat
Remove interior trim at bottom of drivers door, to kick panel
Remove door rubber alongside drivers A Pillar
From the Parrot kit, take the microphone, remove the self adhesive mounting and instead fit the slide clip mounting, fit the mic above the rear view mirror, guide the wiring just inside the headlining, around the top of the A pillar (this is tricky) then down the A pillar and refit the door rubber here to secure. Run the wire down to the drivers footwell area.
Assuming you are going to fit the screen where I put it, this is also a great opportunity to do that and again guide the wiring, behind the door rubber, down to the drivers footwell.
Take the Parrot wiring loom and connect it to the ISO extension. The mute wire isn't populated on the extension, connect it to the the extra single core wire with an insulated closure, then along ISO extension to extend the phone mute. The line-out wires also need to be extended, so take the 5m of dual core wire, cut to 2 x 2.5m, and use to extend the line-out wiring. You can now fix these additional wires to the rest of the ISO extension harness. Take note of the mute wiring on the Parrot loom, the Clio (like most modern Renaults, I believe) uses mute position 3. Confirm which wire this is at the stereo end of the extension, and you will need to chop the existing wire (it doesn't do anything as that wire isn't populated on the car loom) and join to your extended mute wire, so it connects to the headunit.
Take your PC audio cable, chop the connectors out of the plug, join them to the extended line out wiring, and push into the respective positions on the unpopulated side of the red plug.
Connect the ISO extension to the car loom, run it under the carpet, along the bottom of the door aperture, and up the drivers kick panel. Secure using existing clips where possible.
Reach down through the stereo aperture, while reaching up from the footwell, and pull the Parrot loom into the stereo aperture. This is awkward, I cheated by pushing the cable for my Scangauge down through the hole, and taping it to the Parrot loom so I could pull it up. Do the same with the wiring for the microphone and screen. Connect up to the Parrot blue box.
Using a conical hole saw, drill a hole in the side of the glove compartment for the input wiring. Push the plug through and pull if from inside the stereo aperture. Connect to the Parrot blue box.
There is enough space to mount the Parrot box to the rear of the audio aperture, tuck it away, reconnect the head unit part, and refit.
Tidy up the excess loose wiring and secure to the bottom of the dash using cable ties, so it is all nicely tucked away.
Refit drivers seat, reconnect airbag (it is awkward to get the wiring back into place), push stereo wiring through the back of the Cabasse aperture, to the front, and reconnect Cabasse. Push Cabasse unit back into place, with a hand at the back to try to keep the wiring tidy. In all probability you won't be able to refit the rear cover on the Cabasse unit, due to all of the ISO plugs, etc. but this shouldn't be a problem.
Reconnect battery, enter radio code, pair phone, connect iPod, marvel at your success!
Anything that doesn't make sense, please ask, thanks for reading.
Last edited:
Similar Thread Suggestions
| Thread starter | Similar threads | Forum | Replies | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| I | New Irish Member Albi Blue Clio 197 | New Members | 1 | |
|
197 & 200 albi blue hy500 07.10.23 | Spotted | 0 | |
|
Albi Blue 197 Near Duxford | Spotted | 4 | |
|
|
albi blue 197 usually at the motorist sherburn-in-elmet leeds | Spotted | 1 | |
|
|
Albi Blue 197 - South Woodham | Spotted | 3 |