Trackspec Clio 197
- Thread starter trackspec197
- Start date
Just tapered open type Tom. I’ve got a tonne of them here and they seem to work very well. They’re hardened steel with a anti corrosive coating from memory.
No problems mate. Just wound them back in with the piston tool. I had no idea they were in such a bad way lol. It’s definitely worth checking them, not that they do much of the stopping. Although saying that they must do something!
Everyone used to say the rear brakes on the 1*2's did nothing too, but mine coupled with ds2500's could definitely be felt working. Same on the 200 now as I have the same pad combo.
New lower ball joint ordered from @Raptor6767. I’ve gone for an uprated item.
The set of Dunlop’s I had fitted were brand new last year but have only done around 3-4hours of hard driving and are now shot. One has in fact delaminated and through to the canvas in places.
Talking to my friend Craig from Team Dynamics Racing we believe it was initally caused by damage from curb hopping however the movement from the damaged lower ball joint may have made this worse too. I run quite a bit of camber and check across the tyre temps with a probe and despite the majority of the heat and wear being were I would expect it (on the inside) the outer edge has failed. Hopefully the replacement ball joint will help.
The set of Dunlop’s I had fitted were brand new last year but have only done around 3-4hours of hard driving and are now shot. One has in fact delaminated and through to the canvas in places.
Talking to my friend Craig from Team Dynamics Racing we believe it was initally caused by damage from curb hopping however the movement from the damaged lower ball joint may have made this worse too. I run quite a bit of camber and check across the tyre temps with a probe and despite the majority of the heat and wear being were I would expect it (on the inside) the outer edge has failed. Hopefully the replacement ball joint will help.
Removed the front hub assembly this evening ready to remove the lower ball joint over the weekend. Should be a pretty straight forward job and very worth while. On closer inspection there is quite a bit of play within the joint so it should make a good difference to feel and hopefully reduce the bad tyre wear too.
Going to start removing the old ball joint tomorrow evening.
Thanks to @Raptor6767 for sorting me with an uprated ball joint and for the super quick delivery!
Thanks to @Raptor6767 for sorting me with an uprated ball joint and for the super quick delivery!
Brand new genuine uprights going in since I had some on the shelf. I’ve also shot blast the hubs ready for the new ball joint to be fitted then I’ll spray them up in silver for a bit of protection. Happy with the results.
peter
POTM Winner - February 2017
Going to stick with the Dunlop’s mate. This is the 3rd set on it and I’ve only had 1 tyre do this which I believe is either a bad tyre or damage caused by curbs. I’ll be buying another two new tyres for the front. Anyone who has used these will know why I’m not trying anything else at this point. I’ve used a variety of other tyres previously too but these are the best I’ve used for track.
peter
POTM Winner - February 2017
yeah, heard nothing but good about these. hope to get my suspension sorted later in the year, so i can run a true semi slick. these will be my first choice, if i can find them at a decent price.
peter
POTM Winner - February 2017
i don't have the budget for KW's clubsport or AST's or some other hardcore set up. besides, belgian MOT is a pain when it comes to changing your suspension. neither of those come with the necessary papers (maybe the clubsports do, not sure). my clio is not a hardcore trackday tool anyway, so i'm sticking with bilstein B14's together with compbrake topmounts (which i have to remove from the car every year for the MOT). that way i can run more aggressive camber and fully exploit the potential of a semi slick.
Big thanks to @Mark_L for helping with pressing the ball joint out and new in! Thanks mate.
Next quick paint to protect the alloy and then just refit everything and should be like new again.
Next quick paint to protect the alloy and then just refit everything and should be like new again.
Mark_L
Platinum Member
No mate couldn’t have gone any smoother. I think shot blasting all the old crap that surrounded the joint probably helped. Biggest problem was Mark had to find a thin piece of bar to slot through the top joint hole and directly onto the ball joint. Worked a treat!no issues ??heard of some cracked hubs while trying to get one out/in
Last edited:
Mark_L
Platinum Member
Think I'll be keeping that bit of bar as a new tool.
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