The infamous nearside knock?

[Doogle]

Ladies and gents,

Probably many have had similar, unfortunately I cannot seem to find a solution. Maybe its the infamous nearside clunk, it appears to be getting worse.

I first thought it was my swivel joints, common problem and I could 'feel' them through my steering wheel. These have been done recently, upper and lower with parts I supplied the garage from ROFAG. Most of the knocking went and so did the feel. In the last 6 months I have also replaced the nearside wishbone and inner tie rods on both sides.

The sound is halfway between a clunk and sounding like something metallic sliding or moving. It happens only over bumpy ground (like a cobbled surface) at low speed (10-15mph) and when turning right so pressure on nearside.

I am edging towards the topmount, any ideas? I can try and get a video next time I drive it.

 

[turkie172]

I have been looking into this and there's two ways of dealing with it get to the bottom of it or change everything until it's gone. Let us know what way the car is eg lowered, induction kits, was the parts replaced new, mileage and work done so far and did it start to happen after a particular job. I'm going to be away from the computer for most of the evening but I want to help at the moment I'm thinking anti roll bar bushes there is a lip on the near side bracket to stop it sliding sideways if the bush sides are worn then it would be metal to metal, when it happens is important creeping in traffic, uneven roads, ripple surface on bends the 30mph speed bumps that you can only do 10mph over without damaging the car on the up face and the down face.

 

[Doogle]

I have been looking into this and there's two ways of dealing with it get to the bottom of it or change everything until it's gone. Let us know what way the car is eg lowered, induction kits, was the parts replaced new, mileage and work done so far and did it start to happen after a particular job. I'm going to be away from the computer for most of the evening but I want to help at the moment I'm thinking anti roll bar bushes there is a lip on the near side bracket to stop it sliding sideways if the bush sides are worn then it would be metal to metal, when it happens is important creeping in traffic, uneven roads, ripple surface on bends the 30mph speed bumps that you can only do 10mph over without damaging the car on the up face and the down face.

Turkie, interesting point, the suspension is fairly original as far as I am aware, I know it has H&R springs fitted by a previous owner but I believe standard dampers. Cars an 07 plate full fat on almost 115k, I know I am looking at replacing dampers this year, probably along with anti rotation links and ARB links and topmounts if necessary.

Not sure why the nearside has worn far worse than the offside.

 

[sevenfourate]

Not sure why the nearside has worn far worse than the offside.

Drain-covers, pot-holes, roundabouts etc. Passenger side always takes a bigger pounding.

We repair alloy wheels at work. 85% are nearside fronts

 

[Doogle]

Drain-covers, pot-holes, roundabouts etc. Passenger side always takes a bigger pounding.

We repair alloy wheels at work. 85% are nearside fronts

Interesting, didnt realise they take that much of a pounding but makes sense!

 

[sevenfourate]

Interesting, didnt realise they take that much of a pounding but makes sense!

Bricks, logs, road-debris etc always seems to end up in the gutter too.

All i can tell you is most wheels we repair are from that side, and over the years a high percentage of suspension components have failed on that side for me.

Camber of the roads too possibly ? Hence slightly more weight on that side ? Possible.....all might contribute !

 

[turkie172]

Well if you hit a kerb with the right hand and your still in the UK your either going backwards or on the wrong side of the road and already on a looser. The driver knows what's on their side I remember driving a 50 tonne quarry dumber when I was 17 on work experience with the local cement factory the guy said when you go through the gate don't aim for the middle remember you have 16 feet on your right and stay away from the quarry face.

 

[turkie172]

OK stuff that I have found you might want to look at. A Renault head tech told me one time stuff might look and feel OK when the car is up on the lift but when the weight is on the wheels as normal problems can appear.


1. Glove box stuff inside and inside the car door pockets and centre console and boot might surprise you a completely empty car is a good place to start but normally good for vibrating rattle type noises.

2. Lower arms knocking in the slot between the sub frame the rubber allows too much angle.

3. Top of the shock rubber mount but makes noise when moving off in traffic the rubber splits and the internal metal parts knock together will not be seen when jacked up as it's pulled closed normally seen when the weight is on the wheels. The metal cup the shock top bolt goes on bangs on the metal ring that bolts the mount it in. The picture of the broken mount is care of Aarons Autos www.aaronsautos.co.uk/ seem like good guys for Renault sport cars.



4. Anti roll bar sliding left and right knocking on the bracket that holds it and worn ARB bushes.


5. Brake pipes parallel to the middle box out of there clips slapping on the underside of the floor.

6. ARB drop links 3 things websites are listing different lengths for the Clio 197 from 240mm to 280mm if they are too long slamming the shock under compression and allowing the anti roll bar to touch the lower arm fully extended (Mr Auto website shows multiple lengths). If the shock tab is mounted to the back stop in the hub assembly the top drop link head can hit the inner plastic guard and what's underneath during travel I've seen some tell-tale clean marks on my inner guards and because they flex you don't know if they are bumping the metal underneath.


7. Exhaust hitting something in the heat shield or tunnel or even the back diffuser also the engine bay mounts worn.

8. Anti rotation links worn can knock but it will be more steering feel, tyre wear and pulling like track rods and track rod ends.

9. Steering rack bush on the long side of the rack can knock.

10. Under the bonnet air box between bumper and battery as well as air box behind battery or intake system lying free to bump the bulkhead etc.

11. Properly torqued bolts on the sub frame and suspension in general

If I think of anything else I will add it.

 

[RossWoods93]

Great information there Turkie, I appreciate this post! I’m fitting powerflex bushes on the torque arm this weekend as I have a knock, otherwise the closest description in my scenario is number 3 with the shock mounts! I only notice knocking when pulling off the clutch or when the throttles applied / taken off at low speeds

 

[Doogle]

OK stuff that I have found you might want to look at. A Renault head tech told me one time stuff might look and feel OK when the car is up on the lift but when the weight is on the wheels as normal problems can appear.


1. Glove box stuff inside and inside the car door pockets and centre console and boot might surprise you a completely empty car is a good place to start but normally good for vibrating rattle type noises.

2. Lower arms knocking in the slot between the sub frame the rubber allows too much angle.
View attachment 118994

3. Top of the shock rubber mount but makes noise when moving off in traffic the rubber splits and the internal metal parts knock together will not be seen when jacked up as it's pulled closed normally seen when the weight is on the wheels. The metal cup the shock top bolt goes on bangs on the metal ring that bolts the mount it in. The picture of the broken mount is care of Aarons Autos www.aaronsautos.co.uk/ seem like good guys for Renault sport cars.
View attachment 118995
View attachment 119007

4. Anti roll bar sliding left and right knocking on the bracket that holds it and worn ARB bushes.
View attachment 119000

5. Brake pipes parallel to the middle box out of there clips slapping on the underside of the floor.

6. ARB drop links 3 things websites are listing different lengths for the Clio 197 from 240mm to 280mm if they are too long slamming the shock under compression and allowing the anti roll bar to touch the lower arm fully extended (Mr Auto website shows multiple lengths). If the shock tab is mounted to the back stop in the hub assembly the top drop link head can hit the inner plastic guard and what's underneath during travel I've seen some tell-tale clean marks on my inner guards and because they flex you don't know if they are bumping the metal underneath.
View attachment 119005View attachment 119006

7. Exhaust hitting something in the heat shield or tunnel or even the back diffuser also the engine bay mounts worn.

8. Anti rotation links worn can knock but it will be more steering feel, tyre wear and pulling like track rods and track rod ends.

9. Steering rack bush on the long side of the rack can knock.

10. Under the bonnet air box between bumper and battery as well as air box behind battery or intake system lying free to bump the bulkhead etc.

11. Properly torqued bolts on the sub frame and suspension in general

If I think of anything else I will add it.

Thanks for the info Turkie, thats awesome. I know its 100% the front nearside, the sounds been there for quite awhile. The car was in the garage today and they are thinking shock or topmount. I am suspecting topmount but suspension is due a refresh anyway.

 

[Rishi]

I also have a knock/clonk on the nearside and notice it most when going over potholes or speed bumps too fast. It makes the exact same noise if I sharply stab/dab the brake pedal when driving. If I'm braking when hitting a road bump it doesn't happen though, which led me to believe it was the pads moving in the caliper. After stripping and reseating the brakes a few times am now leaning towards top mount as the noise sounds high up.

My nearside front wheel met a curb at speed few years ago and replaced everything on the nearside except the steering arm, still have a knock!

 

[Doogle]

So had my nearside topmount replaced (finally) and turned out it was that. The rubber had perished and the centre metal piece had effectively separated from the rest of the topmount so could be spun freely. The car is much more quiet and feels more stable now.

 

[turkie172]

That's great news

 

[Rishi]

So had my nearside topmount replaced (finally) and turned out it was that. The rubber had perished and the centre metal piece had effectively separated from the rest of the topmount so could be spun freely. The car is much more quiet and feels more stable now.

Thanks for reporting back Doogle. I'm replacing the N/S lower ball joint this weekend so will remove the strut and check the top mount while I'm at it.

 

[Chris]

Cracking info on this post!

 

[turkie172]

One to add here the forward stiffener plate some previous person had messed up I noticed a nut missing and a rattling noise turns out someone had lost one stud or forced in a bolt anyway they bent the little arrowed plate upward and with only one nut on it the other end was tapping inside the sub frame took a while to bent it flat again due to access restrictions and fit a bolt to secure it to stop the noise.

 

[Dmonk197]

for anyone who has the front left knocking- i just had my top mounts and dampers replaced in the front. (dampers replaced to be on the safe side)
the top mounts were completely perished .
i did the work at Beaniesport who told me in the last few month he has done about 4 and it must be age related to the car.

it now feels amazing and no knocking.

 

[NickD]

Interesting, didnt realise they take that much of a pounding but makes sense!

Brake calipers go on that side first too.

 

[Doogle]

for anyone who has the front left knocking- i just had my top mounts and dampers replaced in the front. (dampers replaced to be on the safe side)
the top mounts were completely perished .
i did the work at Beaniesport who told me in the last few month he has done about 4 and it must be age related to the car.

it now feels amazing and no knocking.

Same as mine, Id bet they are the first go to option, along with ARB links and Anti rotation links.

 

[turkie172]

OK I have finally sorted the near side knock I had a few problems while doing it but I had been going through the process of refreshing the front end I knew I had a right hand lower ball joint problem which was less than 3 years old Renault sport ball joint. So having gathered a full spare set of hub assembly's and lower arms and the knock still there I went all out to sort it. I had to carry out the work in two stages I sorted out methods to press out the old hub assembly ball joints then aqua blasted the hubs before fitting up new ball joints hence the two stage process the aqua blaster was down I was trying to sort everything for MOT in February as I felt the drivers side ball joint checking the car before hand and the passenger rear wheel bearing which I was forced to fit new genuine discs because the bearing arrived too late. Anyway I took the scuttle off while the car was still on the ground and found the two top mounts had sheered.


So the passenger side had the top mount and spring changed 4 years ago and passed the MOT last month but the top mount had split and the bottom half ring of the spring was broken in the cup which I only discovered the spring had broken last night after I had changed the top mount and was checking it before refitting the broken bit was that hard to spot I had to take it apart again and change the spring with a used spare I had and only by changing those two parts has cured the low speed rattle and knock. The only advice I can give is if you hit a good sized pothole or similar check the top mount and spring I checked the wheel and it did have a flat spot on the inside lip slight but still there. The previous month I had changed the two lower arms and the right hand hub assembly for the MOT the lower ball joint was going I had put the snow tyres on and thought they were faulty as the handling was not as good as the year before and the fronts were brand new but the drivers lower front ball joint and the passenger rear wheel bearing must have been the problem as the turning to the right improved greatly when the two faulty parts were replaced hope this can help someone.