Shudder in Clio Rs 200 ideas please?!

Hi All,

Just purchased a clio 200 yesterday and love it...had 197 before but Clio 200 full fat is class...only 1 problem a shudder coming when brake...it feels like coming from front right...Car pulls slightly to left...the last owner said rear discs probably need changed but this wouldn’t be causing shudder from what feels like front...so my plan of action:

1.)Balance and line Wheels
2.) check condition of discs and pads replace if needs be as might be warped disc
3.)jack up car check for wheel bearing but there’s no noise of a bearing
4.) hopefully not a bush gone sum where but no funny noises...

Any other suggestions?
 
Think about it logically if it was wheel balance it would be all the time and worse as you go faster. If the disc was warped there would be a shudder and you would feel it in the pedal, A wheel bearing is normally a noise and not pulling to one side while braking.
Was it a private sale or dealer as a dealer has to fix it if just sold

Anyway I'd bet it's the callipers and this time of year would be to check everything but try front first the pads could be corroded in place so check the discs and pull out the pads if they are hard to slide out then that's the problem and might have already damaged the discs if not fixed it will damage new discs the rear callipers can stick easiest to park on a slope and when releasing the handbrake you can feel if both release at the same time another check you be and be sensible about it in a straight line pull the handbrake not enough to spin round and through the hedge but see if it pulls to one side. Where are you in NI
 
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Think about it logically if it was wheel balance it would be all the time and worse as you go faster. If the disc was warped there would be a shudder and you would feel it in the pedal, A wheel bearing is normally a noise and not pulling to one side while braking.
Was it a private sale or dealer as a dealer has to fix it if just sold

Anyway I'd bet it's the callipers and this time of year would be to check everything but try front first the pads could be corroded in place so check the discs and pull out the pads if they are hard to slide out then that's the problem and might have already damaged the discs if not fixed it will damage new discs the rear callipers can stick easiest to park on a slope and when releasing the handbrake you can feel if both release at the same time another check you be and be sensible about it in a straight line pull the handbrake not enough to spin round and through the hedge but see if it pulls to one side. Where are you in NI

Moira
 
OK then your discs might be damaged but it will be because of a stuck pad or calliper until that's fixed or checked I would not put anything new on and for the price I'd put genuine front discs on as they have the rust proof coating failing that genuine Brembo HC coated discs (that's what the genuine discs are) there is also an uncoated model. There might be a possibility that the pad is catching a rusted lip on the topside or low side of the disc. Have you pulled the pads before in the 197 and know what you need, a good quality 4mm long punch with a concave tip so you don't hit the calliper and stay centred on the pin. I use the genuine Brembo Pads P68 036 fronts and P68 024 on the rears as they are cheaper than genuine but still genuine if you know what I mean. And I use a Hex cap headed bolt to put the pins back in which also stops you from missing the pin and hitting the calliper. If the pins stick don't waste time hitting them just cut them with a junior hacksaw blade to get the pad out then easier to remove the pins.
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Not personally I'm up in Cookstown I do nearly everything myself (dropped the sub frame and changed the manifold a couple of weeks ago but too difficult to photograph and make a how to item) I do ask an ex dealer tech to do important jobs like full timing kit stuff that he does in his spare time when it is good for him and he wants to do it but I'm considering asking him to put in a new clutch to see if it helps the high rev gear change problem no crunching or anything like that but it feels like the clutch is either not fully isolating the gearbox during gear change making the feeling that the gear is not quite ready to go in and can be improved if I take my foot fully off the accelerator pedal during gear change. My personal feeling is that it's a clutch problem that leads to the dreaded Clio 197 - 200 gearbox faults I did not have the car from new and I know I'm not hard on a clutch as my last 172 Clio I changed the clutch at 120,000 miles because of a slight release bearing squeak and was still good at 200,000 odd miles.
 
That’s something which this car has had done new clutch and gearbox stripped and rebuilt with new syncros...if can get the brakes or shudder sorted I’d be happy
 
I had bought a spare little used genuine manifold after getting the car I'm sure it was on the forum I wanted the manifold and someone else wanted the rest of the exhaust system so I bought and paid for the whole thing and the other guy picked everything up and posted me the manifold I wanted. Anyway I knew the steel was fraying on the flexi a little noise on start-up then very slightly over the next three years got worse after swapping I felt the quietness return along with the Akrapovic slipon it sounds not too far from standard a more compressed purposeful sound. I worked with LeoVince exhausts on superbikes in the dyno room we swaped to Akrapovic they sounded more compacted and instant 4HP increase now they were full factory titanium systems so remember noise is not horsepower. The now retired head BMW Motorrad Motorsport Technical Director Bertie Hauser ( I must say what a guy and down to earth he came to quite a few of your race events) was a personal friend of the Akrapovic family and the main reason BMW Motorad sells Akrapovic exhaust systems officially as options instead for BMW branded systems. I'm not into a lot of noise but I'm now interested to see if the Akrapovic mid section is easy to live with.