SG200

[aterro]

Well, I’ve decided to not only keep the Storm Grey 200, but to do a progress thread.

In October, I purchased a storm grey 200. I have previously owned one racing blue 200 and one alien green 200 and i thought I’d have to complete the set, with arguably the best colour Clio, storm grey!

It’s a full fat, cup pack with projector headlights. It has the full leather interior, not Recaro’s, which I surprisingly prefer. I purchased the car over the Internet and I must say blindly. Upon arrival, I was pleased to see how good shape it was in visually but after a little test drive around the block, something didn’t seem right. After raising the car, I found;

Play in steering rack arms
Missing subframe brace
Rusty front radiator support

With that in mind, I set about removing the front plastic wheel arches so I could see more and I was met with a hole in the radiator support and whilst this isn’t structural, it needs sorting. I was also conscious about the top mounts needing replacing, so I was confronted with another job on the list. During the test drive, the standard steering wheel was the worst one I’ve had. It’s peeling and feels awful which is the same story with the gear knob.

So my first job was to service the car with genuine oil and a genuine oil filter. I also changed the spark plugs with genuine replacements and a new drain plug and seal was used for the sump.

Next jobs:
Change the gearbox oil with genuine fluid.
Change all engine mounts with new ones
Change top mounts
Fit coilovers along with new genuine front wishbones, drop links, anti rotational links , track rod ends, inner and outer and new nuts.
Fit new brakes- new calipers, discs and pads.
Find a new radiator support
Coolant flush and new thermostat
Get new wheels
Get the steering wheel/gearknob retrimmed or buy a sabelt one.
Fit new bolts and nuts when changing bits.
Buy new coilpack seals
Fit standard subframe brace, which I had to buy a full subframe for as I couldn’t find one separated.

This list is definitely not exhaustive and I’m sure I will add a lot more to it!

Anyway, here is some pictures:
Getting collected


Small hole


Top mount condition


Removed for cleaning


Wiper linkage, removed and lubed


Ready for future action


Spark plugs needed doing

 

[Beany]

Looks nice on the outside shame you’ve found some nasty hidden gremlins!

certainly have your Work cut out for you

What coilovers you going for ?

 

[aterro]

Looks nice on the outside shame you’ve found some nasty hidden gremlins!

certainly have your Work cut out for you

What coilovers you going for ?

Bilstein B14



Had a range of goodies arrive over the last week or so. Some of which are shown but:

Powerflex bushes for arb, gearbox mount, upper arm, and the new full dogbone one. Genuine new gearbox mount and genuine upper mount.
Pure motorsport stud n kit
New Godspeed front discs - G type
New Genuine top mount
Brembo pads with new pins and retaining screws.
ACF 50 for the coilovers
New front bumper/headlight mount as the bolt snapped in captive nut and won’t come out clean with associated new bolt and clips.
New lower subframe brace bolts, nuts and tabs.




Next is to fit it all!

I’m still after a set of nice wheels, front drivers inner arch and gearknob but I just need to get all of this fitted!

 

[aterro]

A lot has happened since my last post, apart from any real visual progress on the car!

Hubs/knuckles removed and rebuilt with new genuine joints and new genuine wheel bearings.







Brand new Brembo callipers. ( these are not refurbished)




Nearly new front radiator support with no
Rust! It was practically impossible to buy a new one that fits 200/197 as Renault don’t supply one to exactly suit the 200/197 and they require modification, but I found this one that was only 2 years old!


Some more pictures of new power flex mounts. I have also purchased a new genuine main engine mount so all engine mounts are brand new/reinforced with power flex


Gearbox oil has been changed also!


Next is to get this all fitted!

 

[turkie172]

I just bought a brand new subframe Genuine does not need modified 8200803451 was about £148.32 exc VAT
Pictures of subframe I put up

 

[aterro]

I just bought a brand new subframe Genuine does not need modified 8200803451 was about £148.32 exc VAT
Pictures of subframe I put up

Thanks dude. I was told by Renault Leicester and Kam Racing( which is reiterated on their website) that you need to cut and weld the small bracket in the middle if you buy one! Doh
O well, the one I have is in really good condition so I’m happy with that.

 

[SBRacing]

Do you have a picture of this that you mentioned above in the thread please: - New lower subframe brace bolts, nuts and tabs.
I removed my box section cross brace thingy when fitting the lower engine mount upgrade and then stupidly knocked what i think you are referring to up into the subframe and its disappeared! I will have to partially strip the drivers side suspension / rad frame to try to retrieve it. If its not there i'll need a new one but cant find any pics of one. I'm guessing its 2 bolts welded to a steel strip? passenger side appeared to be slightly different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[aterro]

I will get you a picture later to show you. I have bought all the bits new

Do you have a picture of this that you mentioned above in the thread please: - New lower subframe brace bolts, nuts and tabs.
I removed my box section cross brace thingy when fitting the lower engine mount upgrade and then stupidly knocked what i think you are referring to up into the subframe and its disappeared! I will have to partially strip the drivers side suspension / rad frame to try to retrieve it. If its not there i'll need a new one but cant find any pics of one. I'm guessing its 2 bolts welded to a steel strip? passenger side appeared to be slightly different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[aterro]

I’ve actually done something on the Clio today!

Fitted new genuine main engine mount
Fitted the powerflex bush into upper arm
Fitted new genuine gearbox mount and powerflex insert.
Fitted headlights with new Philips extreme vision bulbs, chrome indicator and led sidelights.
Fitted new pollen filter.
Changed the washer pipes due to split and c2 mist jets.

 

[aterro]

Do you have a picture of this that you mentioned above in the thread please: - New lower subframe brace bolts, nuts and tabs.
I removed my box section cross brace thingy when fitting the lower engine mount upgrade and then stupidly knocked what i think you are referring to up into the subframe and its disappeared! I will have to partially strip the drivers side suspension / rad frame to try to retrieve it. If its not there i'll need a new one but cant find any pics of one. I'm guessing its 2 bolts welded to a steel strip? passenger side appeared to be slightly different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Picture below


Weird design

 

[SBRacing]

perfect! thats what i was after.
Where did you get them from , RPD ?. Do you have the part number.
Thanks for the photo.

 

[aterro]

perfect! thats what i was after.
Where did you get them from , RPD ?. Do you have the part number.
Thanks for the photo.

The ones highlighted in yellow( don’t include the top one) Hope this helps and no. Renault Wolverhampton. RPD have been up and down with getting back to me.

 

[SBRacing]

thanks for that. Hoping to get it fixed tomorrow.

 

[aterro]

I gave up today....... and removed the subframe to do anti roll bar bushes. It wasn’t that bad to be honest but I’m sure it’s hard to line up when refitting.

Does anyone have the part number for the bolt and nut fir the steering coupler UJ?

After removing the subframe, I did find these flexis. Are these standard?

What options do I have for manifolds?

And what is the thread pitch of exhaust nuts as I’m sure I’ll need new nuts!

 

[burrellbloke]

I am certainly no expert but I think that your flexis may have been replaced in the past.

A lot of people replace the standard Renault manifold with a Toyosports manifold. The Remnant manifold has a pre-cat in it and the Toyosports manifold does not.

 

[turkie172]

It's been fixed before they are shorter but it was the same used by the guy that repaired mine I would have felt better if the right sized ones were used and that he did both. I used a new gasket but the nuts were fine just a funny way/order to tighten them to a torque from the service manual same idea as a sump or cylinder head. Replacing nuts is best practice but not life or death necessary.


If the old ones are cut out this way it takes a bit of extra grinding to prep for the new one but the manifolds length is kept right for future repairs I think someone should do band clamps so replacements can be fitted without welding but space around the pipework might be a problem but would be a good solution for a Toyo single flexi solution just buy the flexi with the connector attached so one clamp.




Length of the original Flexis and replacements need to have a flat side as you don't want them touching in the middle

 

[aterro]

It's been fixed before they are shorter but it was the same used by the guy that repaired mine I would have felt better if the right sized ones were used and that he did both. I used a new gasket but the nuts were fine just a funny way/order to tighten them to a torque from the service manual same idea as a sump or cylinder head. Replacing nuts is best practice but not life or death necessary.
View attachment 144155

If the old ones are cut out this way it takes a bit of extra grinding to prep for the new one but the manifolds length is kept right for future repairs I think someone should do band clamps so replacements can be fitted without welding but space around the pipework might be a problem but would be a good solution for a Toyo single flexi solution just buy the flexi with the connector attached so one clamp.
View attachment 144158
View attachment 144159


Length of the original Flexis and replacements need to have a flat side as you don't want them touching in the middle
View attachment 144157
View attachment 144156

Would you be replacing mine if you was me? Subframe is out so just need to remove manifold.

 

[turkie172]

If your keeping it or tracking it then yes I would replace the flexis at this stage because a flexi can blow even if the braiding looks good you would need to hear it running and even then when driving at high revs the heat can open a crack that at other times closes (the middle box can do this as well) when used say around town low revs less heat. Be very careful around the starter motor heat shield I pulled the one on mine off without checking what parts of the starter and solenoid the spring clips went around and when finished the shield can short out on the constantly live terminal blowing the starter motor fuse I ended up pulling the starter motor out to fix this from the side but I had pushed in a bit of heavy mud flap rubber under the shield until I was ready to fix it. The flexis can go so slowly you don't notice the noise level rise over time it's only when you replace or fix it that you kick yourself for not fixing it sooner the front suspension is the same situation only after replacing rods and ball joints etc. that you say to yourself this is how it should feel on the road. My flexi was fixed by a custom exhaust builder for £50

 

[aterro]

Nothing has really happened but I’ve wasted more money.

Pictures speak a thousand words.

Toyosport manifold
New exhaust gasket
New exhaust clamp
New exhaust manifold nuts
New cup steering rack.

 

[aterro]

Well, I’ve not updated for a while so here goes.

I removed the front subframe, which wasn’t as hard as everyone makes out. I did it on my driveway with one jack and fitted it the same way.

here’s some pictures, new cup steering rack, powerflex arb bushes with new bolts for subframe brace!

Next was fitting all the suspension parts which all had new bolts and associated grease to ensure they come off easy in the future!

I also:

1. Fitted a new UJ bolt and nut on steering rack
2. ACF-50 the arches.
3. Fitted rear coilovers
4. Fitted new thermostat
5. Fitted new clutch and brake fluid - bleeding the clutch was the worst job ever.
6. Fitted new ktec filter to old ktec pipe work.
7. fitted new lambda sensor post cat-genuine Renault as the wiring was burnt on my old one.
8. 
   
   
   I’m very nearly done, or so I hope. I will be selling the car shortly as I just don’t need another car which is a shame but needs must. If anyone is interested, please feel free to message me.