Passenger Side Driveshaft
- Thread starter Sheldon88
- Start date
Ah Clio ownership, that sounds about right... 
Yes they can be really siezed if they've never had any copper slip on the splines, what you really want is a hefty three arm bearing puller or... If all else fails a massive hammer, but you want to wind the nut on first as it'll make a right mess of the threads!
Choose your tool wisely:
Yes they can be really siezed if they've never had any copper slip on the splines, what you really want is a hefty three arm bearing puller or... If all else fails a massive hammer, but you want to wind the nut on first as it'll make a right mess of the threads!
Choose your tool wisely:
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I was in the same boat and what I had to do was buy an hydraulic hub puller and it was tight going you need to be careful impacts go right up the shaft and into the gearbox so stop hitting it. Mine was described as "Wheel Hub Press Puller Hydraulic 10 Ton 4 & 5 Bolt VW Audi Vag Peugeot Citroen " and was about £73 I was having some trouble with it but topping it up with trolley jack oil did the trick as it was low the other drive shaft pushed out with my thumb. This is a picture of the one I got
Hub puller 10 ton
Hub puller 10 ton
Sheldon88
Paid Member
I gave it some hits with a cooper hammer and nothing, tried a clarke hub puller tool but the hub ring was to big to fit in it so it didnt fit flush with the hub and broke..
Does the tool you recommended fit flush on the hub??
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Albert540
Paid Member
Hurray, I'm also in this same boat
I was going to replace the shocks, but due to the driveshaft seized into the hub I had to put everything back (one entire afternoon gone for this)
So, I bought this universal puller:
Now, my fear is: is it possible to get into more trouble and end up with the hub itself removed from the bearing?? It would pull right from there...
I was going to replace the shocks, but due to the driveshaft seized into the hub I had to put everything back (one entire afternoon gone for this
)So, I bought this universal puller:
Now, my fear is: is it possible to get into more trouble and end up with the hub itself removed from the bearing?? It would pull right from there...
Attachments
Use the hydraulic hub puller its more reliable and less likely to damage wheel bearings and the hooks on the one above don't get a good bite.
Ebay hub puller
Ebay hub puller
Get a small bottle of car jack oil as they are cheap and tend to leak oil and a little top up before use helps a lot.
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RSRowe
Paid Member
Albert540
Paid Member
@turkie172 thanks for the hint, I will try to find something similar that's not too expensive...unfortunately I cannot find that same exact tool here (Italy)
@RSRowe, I'm starting to think that Clios should be left altogether a month or two in penetrating oil, especially with your lovely climate
Actually this is the very first part that I find stuck/seized (thanks to a little less rain here in the southern Europe, I suppose). I got the subframe down to replace the manifold, no rust issues at all, not even for the clamp between the cat and the downpipe that is really exposed to agents and remained untouched for 13 years...so, I hope that with a good puller the driveshaft will eventually come out! I mean, even the shocks can move freely inside the hub...
@RSRowe, I'm starting to think that Clios should be left altogether a month or two in penetrating oil, especially with your lovely climate
Actually this is the very first part that I find stuck/seized (thanks to a little less rain here in the southern Europe, I suppose). I got the subframe down to replace the manifold, no rust issues at all, not even for the clamp between the cat and the downpipe that is really exposed to agents and remained untouched for 13 years...so, I hope that with a good puller the driveshaft will eventually come out! I mean, even the shocks can move freely inside the hub...
burrellbloke
Paid Member
The front suspension on my car has been changed both ways. The first by leaving the driveshaft in place and taking the front damper out of the hub. The second by taking the driveshaft out of the hub and taking the front damper and the hub off of the car at the same time.You could just leave it in there and replace your shocks as planned.
It’s exactly what a garage would do over here. I’ve done it myself a couple of times
It was easier to take the hub off to change the suspension but it was possible to change it by leaving the driveshaft and hub on the car.
Albert540
Paid Member
I have tried, but found that the driveshaft is limiting the amount of travel of the hub, and the dampers won't come out for just a couple of centimeters or so...
I suppose you had to compress the springs in place, right? Unfortunately my spring compressors don't find under there...
I suppose you had to compress the springs in place, right? Unfortunately my spring compressors don't find under there...
burrellbloke
Paid Member
Yes, the springs were compressed with a set of spring compressors that we cut down to fit up closer to the top mount.
A large pry bar also helped.
Albert540
Paid Member
Without compressing the spring at least a little bit, the damper bottom won't slide out of the inner hub, there's not enough movement due to the driveshaft limiting how far down you can move the hub assembly. At least this is what I've found (without forcing too much, didn't want to break anything! 
)
)
Albert540
Paid Member
I have found this style of spring compressors that seems to be perfect without any need to cut them down: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51rJ3HPQesL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg
With these at least I should be able to replace my shocks. As for the stuck driveshaft...I'll give it a try with a puller, and if not enough I'll think about it later (maybe I'll look for some garage that can take care of it when I don't need the car for a while)
With these at least I should be able to replace my shocks. As for the stuck driveshaft...I'll give it a try with a puller, and if not enough I'll think about it later (maybe I'll look for some garage that can take care of it when I don't need the car for a while)
RSRowe
Paid Member
Yep. You need to undo everything.
Balljoint, stabiliser link, drop link, track rod, abs cable, brake line, top mounts. Then pop the shaft out of the gearbox.
It will 100% come out in one big assembly.
I did the same on my Clio last time round. I split the shocker from the rest of the hub once it was out the car.
There’s also my preferred method of separating too ^
Balljoint, stabiliser link, drop link, track rod, abs cable, brake line, top mounts. Then pop the shaft out of the gearbox.
It will 100% come out in one big assembly.
I did the same on my Clio last time round. I split the shocker from the rest of the hub once it was out the car.
There’s also my preferred method of separating too ^
Albert540
Paid Member
Ah well sure, removing the driveshaft from the gearbox side is the other obvious way!
Just so that I have an idea of all the possible alternatives: how difficult is that? Are there retaining bolts/nuts or circlips? Do you need to drain the gearbox oil? (I've read different views about this last one)
Thanks!
Just so that I have an idea of all the possible alternatives: how difficult is that? Are there retaining bolts/nuts or circlips? Do you need to drain the gearbox oil? (I've read different views about this last one)
Thanks!
