Old Gits LY.....now under conversion

krash67

Gold Member
Well been on here for a fair few months, reading, making a few comments and never posted what I got or what I've been upto and what the intentions are.
Phase 1 is just to get the car to a half decent track day set up.
Phase 2 - take it off the road for good and race it.

Day 1 - rolled the car into the garage back in January, 1st job de badging
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Needed new discs all round, purchased from MTEC, with new pads front and back. Noticed then that the back brake calipers where not at there best, tried stripping but the only thing that was stripping was the bolt heads. Ended up buying new back calipers from Renault. Pic also shows H&R lowering springs which where fitted all round.
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These purchased and fitted. The subframe was the bain of my life, I've had it off now at least 3 times, but at least its easy now and get it off in 10 mins! Front camber & caster adjustable bushes fitted on a spare pair of lower wishbones that I had.
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KTEC induction & Powervamp battery, as seen fitted below. Hacked the fuse boxes off the battery box & made a simple bracket (for now, version 2 in progress as I write this).
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Now decided to relocate battery into passenger side foot well behind glove box (with some minor adjustment). Make way for new induction system!!

Pic of the version 1 battery box bracket/gearbox top mount plate cover
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Exhaust: Out with the old!
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In with the new!!
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Fitted a new decat manifold & wrapped, just to stroke out a few extra tenths of a BHP!
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Love this shot!!
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Then taken to the mecca that is RS Tuning
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Car knocked out 191BHP straight out the box, ended up with just short of 195, but the torque and power curve allot smoother. As with the AFR. I think we could of got allot more, but I was rushed through as it seemed he had doubled booked me with clio MK2 race car .
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Interior:
Stripped back seats out, fitted Corbeau Revolution (or evolution can't recall the name now)..FIA drivers seat. Seat frames where a challenge in getting them centralised with the steering wheel & getting the seat raised as I'm only a short arse! Ended up making riser blocks from MS box channel and bolting the OMP sub frames straight through the risers. The seat brackets I had to install two the same handed and just make two extra holes in the subframe.
Fitted 3" STR race harness. Resistors fitted to all the air bags and on the seat belt tensioners, as they had been removed.
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Then I saw this cheap on ebay...so what the hell!
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With a simple home made bracket made from carbon sheet and a 5 penny's worth switch from Maplins. A Horn switch.......At least it wont fail the next MOT on something stupid.

Saw a rear strut brace going cheap on ebay, so had that and fitted.
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Other jobs done by myself:-
  • Cambelt Change
  • Phaser Pully
  • Aux Belt & pully
  • N/S diff drive shaft seal
  • Full liquids service
  • Air Con fully removed
  • Alternator repositioned following removal of air con compressor
  • Thermostat
  • Two new front CUP struts, was going to fit Coil overs but was pushed for time. This will be done this winter, if not sooner:wink:
  • Nankangs NS2-R fitted all round
  • New reconned Brembo's up front with DS2500 pads.
  • Hoses and Brake fluid change.
  • Radio removed.....reception was **** anyway
  • Rear de-wiped
  • door mirror covers repainted - garage door!!
  • wheel stud conversion

And this is how she sits now. Taken at Blyton earlier in the month.
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Jobs still to do
- Fit carbon door cards or similar home made ones. Allow roll cage and get a wider passenger seat in.
- Rear ARB (this needs doing sooner than later)
- Remove rear subframe, re poly bush and a tidy up (winter job).
- Roll cage.
- Start building another engine (winter job)
- LS diff (winter job)
- probably strip front suspension & hubs down, clean up, new ball joints and wheel bearings (winter job).

Santa wish list
- CAE short shifter
-or just get a cup race car
 
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Looking good! Some nice progress there, and lots planned!

Looking forward to seeing it this coming weekend!
 
very interesting project..thumbs up..like the steering wheel..looks like you know what you are doing and where you want the car be in a few months..
 
Thanks. I'm maybe not at a evolutioned state as some of the other guys on here with there transformations, my work space is limiting for what I would like.....now if I had a double garage and could spread out a bit, then there would be a big pile of bits!
 
Old Gits LY

As mentioned decided to relocate the battery to behind the glove box. Noticed the power cables having the blue and green plugs have sufficient length that they can be peeled back and fed back through the bulk head, via another bulkhead penetration.
With having to then feed another power ( extend the alternator cable) the original positive battery connector ( with fuse links) can be re-used
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As always as I get into a task it always grows arms and legs and wanting to relocate the fuse box (originally attached to the battery box) permanently I had to deal with the old battery box relay box, which found only contains the one relay for the rad fan and is fed from this fuse box. So I ended up doing this....
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To enable to get a alternator connection back onto its original connection point on the battery I used a common auto/marine DC connector box and just for now bolted into one of the original battery box mounts.

More pics of the final install after tonight's tinkering session!
 
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Thae bulkhead hole you drilled, was it easy and whereabouts on the other side (inside) did it end up being? - Any chance you can take a pic if there's access?

I want to do the exact same thing for my oil temp and oil pressure wiring, I've given up trying to use the main existing bulkhead grommet to the right of that!

Also have a look at these to finish the hole nicely: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/bulkhead-grommet-pack
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@TB Rich hopefully pic below shows where it pops out. I had to come further away from the existing bulkhead entry due to the size and amount of cables coming through.
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Battery position mocked up, had to manufacture a backing plate (version 1) for the battery bracket to fit into instead of the fire wall and the insulation. Need to shorten a few cables.
 
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Thanks Krash, looks about where I would drill and seems like a ton of space on the inside - i.e nothing to hit so nothing to go wrong!

I've no excuses now apart from terminal lazyness :blush:hmy:
 
Old Gits LY

Ha ha .....was around. It wasn't until I saw you in some picks that I Sussed we was next to each other in the que in the cafe [emoji38]
 
Well done! Admin on CS were asking whose car it was and wondered if that was the reason, I mentioned that your over on this forum!
 
Well splashed out procured the R3 induction kit off Tamas, part way through fitting, pictures show a partly mocked up state. With this, having to relocate the cooling header tank. The blue tape is just to hold both parts together with a installed " green filter" for a clio V6 .
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With this being fitted to a 200, had to slightly modify the front of the inlet lip (square it off a little).
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Hole cut in the front.
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The hole has been cleaned up better than this.

Front part fitted and

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as mentioned, with this fitting to a 200 had to make a slight mod to the front bumper adjacent to bumper retaining clip, this to allow the lip of the front part to sit against the inside of the bumper just behind the grill (where you put the RS badge).
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In the process of relocating the header tank and awaiting 2nd design version of clips for the 2 part filter housing. Pics to come shortly
 

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Well in place and still waiting for some clips.
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The "tapping points" for the inlet air temp sensor and the cam top breather will be plugged(capped off), the latter due to already running a oil knock out pot.

Progressed with the relocation of the header tank. decided to put it here. Tried numerous other header tanks from other cars (local scrap yard likes me!!) but ended back with the original.
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The silver pipe is what Ive knocked up to connect the rad vent back to the header. Awaiting some 16mm aluminium pipe to finish the header to rad filling pipe.
 

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You legend. Nice one for the shout mate. This is looking right up my street. Definitely in for videos! Good write up too.

Presume you're going to map it once fitted? Really interested to know what the driving experience is like. Made a pretty spectacular difference to mine. If this is anything like that, I want one on the R27 too!

Hope it goes well.
 
Could You take a picture from the front of the car (with the bumper fitted) to show how r3 airbox sits behind the front bumper in Clio 200. As it was designed for Clio 197 I assume the inlet for this airbox is blocked (at least to some extent) by front bumper design. I've been thinking about fitting one myself but wasn't sure if the bumper design of clio 200 would distort the air feed and hence: RAM effect. Ended up with Cup/V6 airbox and for now, ITB's next year maybe.
Anyway, thanks in advance mate.
P.S. There's a french company that makes the r3 airbox as well and (at least from the photo) It seems to have all the clamps to hold the airbox parts together so You don't have to use tape :wink:

http://www.mcracingsa.com/4-pieces-...-rs/5925-boite-a-air-moteur-renault-clio-rs3/
 
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