Noise/rattle after gearbox replacement

Hi,

few days ago I have had a gearbox replacemenet.
The mechanic moved my gearbox(TL028) inner parts to a second gearbox housing (TL032) and by that only the main bearing and seal of the gearbox were new replaced.
The problem I am refering to is the noise/rattle appearing at 3k rpm just a bit (just quite), but then tops loud at 6k rpm. When moving, the sound is very very quite, but when lifiting the throttle it's horrible.
Only if clutch is depressed is the sound appearing.
I checked several topics but none of them have any videos anymore of the sounds they have had, so that doesn't help.

The gearchanging is butter smooth, new oil, syncrhos are in very good shape.

Mainly, I would say that the sound is comming from the mid of the engine towards right.
Videos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qJIqEkDHmjZa51etpHuGXK6L0LS631pb/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dWaXxLGtNCGKQbAxadZYyeMA3VxFYlnB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15qcsld_QUY527inooiYMVaVdB-JCLlFE/view?usp=sharing



Thanks!
 
Try playing with the throttle on load so accelerate in third to say 4K revs and let off, of the noise goes as your throttle matches your revs it’s a bearing in the box, possibly the diff (we used to get it a lot on tu boxes)

Although it also possible from your first video that it’s the exhaust rattling...

You also say that only if the clutch is depressed is the noise appearing? Do you mean with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor it makes a noise and normal driving no noise?

Either way I’d be taking it back to mr mechanic if it didn’t do it before...
 
Well, when driving and the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor the sound is not there.
So when driving or the clutch is depressedwhen standstill -pedal up , the noise is there.

The mechanic did this type of gearbox for the first time.
 
Sounds like the input shaft bearing
Well, when driving and the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor the sound is not there.
So when driving or the clutch is depressedwhen standstill -pedal up , the noise is there.

The mechanic did this type of gearbox for the first time.
id edit your first post to read ‘if the pedal is depressed the noise is disappearing’ It reads the other way round as it’s written now...
 
Ok...is there any way to tell which bearing is dead? It would be then quite expensive to replace all the bearings in manner to solve one bearing issue...
 
Any further suggestions? I read that some AC pipes can rattle, but I havent understood on which part/where that occurs.
 
if inner parts have been swapped between casing then its possible the end float/pre-load will have changed for the bearings & hence noises
 
I have visited the mechanic and he agreed to take apart the gearbox and to re-check everything.
He also pointed out that there is no shimming with this gearbox, but only joining the gear sets onto the main gearbox shaft and that's it. Is that possible?

What he has done is, he took the gearbox housing from a TL032, then onto the main shaft (green) mounted the TL028 every single piece. Also, the diff is the TL028.
I suppose that as those are not 100% same gearboxes so something has to be adjusted with shims.

Also, I haven't written what has been the problem with the old box. The flywheel bolts broke, and it hit the box housing and shattered it, so cracks were quite big, gearbox shaft broke, oil everywhere. Also, the clutch was in a thousand pieces.
The previous owner messed something quite and it got me.

upload_2018-10-13_11-32-38.png
 
The problem is still not sorted as I haven't still visited the shop for repair.
What I have noticed, when I steer left then the sound disappears but is present when I drive straight or turn right.

Also, I have had the starter heat shield problem, it burned some fuses. The electrician fixed the heat shield plate and I can notice that the rattle is not present at 3k anymore, but at 4k-7k rpm.
To consider is, the temperature outside is 15°C so oil thickness may affect the sound?
 
Just for an update, this was solved by replacing the upper engine mount. It was pretty much garbage.
upload_2019-5-14_12-28-19-png.133628
 
I nust started getting a similar noise at 3500 to 4000 revs only appears between thoese revs,
And only when driving.

It started after all 4 mounts were replaced, I replaced the mounts because my centre box had small cracks on both sides where pipe meets box, had them welded and replaced the mounts because I assumed the engine moving was causing them,
The down pipe and flexi were replaced 3k miles before,

I'm assuming something is touching something,
.

I've suspected for a while now my clutch is on it's way out started crunching and overeving when changing gear as if I've not took foot on throttle...

It's much Improved after new mounts and brake and clutch bleed...

My delima is should I just replace box and clutch and assume that will cure everything, or spend more effort on the exhaust to cure noises and wee niggles
 
if the clutch is causing the noise, then it can be only the clutch bearing. when everything is cold (engine and box), turn on the engine, open the door of the passenger side and stay there. someone should then press the clutch, there should be noticeable change in noise if it's the bearing.
if you think that the clutch is slipping, warm the car up to standard temp, then put 2 3 people in the back(some bigger ones haha) and the clutch should start slipping within few minutes.
 
There is a noise when I press the clutch just a tiny bit, and if I'm driving along and hold clutch down I can hear noises,

No point in trying to pretend the bearing isn't guffed,

The clutch isn't slipping, how long does the bearing last when it starts failing?
Is it wise to keep using the car, can it cause damage to gearbox.

Seems like a clutch is about £230,
Any particular clutch worth getting over the Renault one,
If for example could a get a luk or valeo etc clutch just the same as a Renault but cheaper .