Machine Polishing

Gromb200

THE TOFFEE
Platinum Member
Right then I have been thinking about getting into this for a while now.
Been looking at purchasing one of these beauties

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAKITA-9227CB...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4aa4dc22b1

As alot of detailers on Detailing world use these.

I know there is a few that are detailers on here, so was just wondering how hard is it?

I am only looking a swirl removal to begin with, as the black plart of my front bumper is a little swirlyyyyyy. :huh:

A few may suggest getting a PRO to do it but I like to try new things out.

I do have a few cars that I can practice on first before I go anywhere near the 200. (I am not that stupid to dive onto the 200 first thing)

Just wanted your thoughts first.

Comments would be much appreciated.
 
I think it would be great if you could but I aint got a clue with anything like this.

Some detailers do training, which would help?
 
also i would buy a da if your a beginer not a rottary which your looking at as it is hard to go wrong with a da but with a rottary you can **** you paint up very easy
 
As above really - you are better off getting a Dual Action polisher as your first one, they are safer and less likely to cause problems if your technique isn't spot on.
 
I did think of this first but, didn't want to spend money on a DA then upgrade later on.

Will do some more research before I buy, as it will be in the new year anyway.

It is something I would really like to get into.

I am sure Russ Zs and Woody will be along to offer some advice.
 
I started off with a rotary and have coped ok, I did make one small error on my first car but that car was only worth about £200 so I could put up with it.

I say go for it but make sure you listen to people's advise and get some scrap panels to practise on.

Also bear in mind that the purchase cost of the rotary is only the start, pads are about £10 each and you'll want at least a cutting and polishing pad to start off with. Polishes are £10+ per bottle and you'll want at least 2 different grades (For example megs #105 and megs #205) or a cheaper alternative would be Megs #83 and Megs #80
 
The only time ive needed a rotary is on some german paint (read: hard!), but even on that, with a little bit of extra effort, I achieved what I wanted. On these cars a DA machine will have no probs for swirl removal. Just invest in decent polishes. I started on Sonus stuff, but tried Menzerna and have never looked back. It is also worth buying the smaller sized 'spot' pads, as these offer more bite, and are easier in more awkward areas of the car. Just keep the area your working on quite small. A classic starting error (one I made) is to try and work a large area in one go!

I have a dvd somewhere thats a good starter for tips/techniques. I'll try and dig it out If you want a copy.

Ant
 
The only time ive needed a rotary is on some german paint (read: hard!), but even on that, with a little bit of extra effort, I achieved what I wanted. On these cars a DA machine will have no probs for swirl removal. Just invest in decent polishes. I started on Sonus stuff, but tried Menzerna and have never looked back. It is also worth buying the smaller sized 'spot' pads, as these offer more bite, and are easier in more awkward areas of the car. Just keep the area your working on quite small. A classic starting error (one I made) is to try and work a large area in one go!

I have a dvd somewhere thats a good starter for tips/techniques. I'll try and dig it out If you want a copy.

Ant

That would be great if you could! :thumbup:

I am starting to sway more towards a DA now.
 
i got a dodo juice spin doctor rotary for my birthday ive got hold of a few old mini bonnets and boots and im going to try on them. will even go balls out to try to go through the paint to see what its like when its going to happen

that rotary has a digital speed control in it so its really hard to mess up unless you have no common sense

the guy from dodo juice told me to start with soft pads and fine compounds, if it doesnt get the marks out then go with a harder pad, if its still there back to the softer pad but with a harder compound, you get where im going.

you cant go wrong as long as you keep moving and mask up the rubber and plastic parts like window seals and trims they can rip the pads up

thats all probably a load of useless info but it may help a bit lol
 

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