Loss of power when engine is hot

So found this post on another thread...

MicKPM said:
Dephaser pulleys; (Dan@519 will support this) They won't just fail but a word to the wise - you need to be extra careful with the current generation VVC system/dephaser pulley as it's not as simple to diagnose as the older X65 system/pulley units were (8200782671). Typically a "Knock" or "Tapping" at cold start, usually followed by an engine stall, is a dephaser issue BUT it (along with a constant faint audible metallic tap at idle speed) can also be a symptom of the VVC system on the whole being in "defect mode" which see's the pulley still able to do its own thing but the ECU knows no difference (Nomally due to a camshaft position sesnor, camshaft target or circuit wiring fault) so shuts off control.

This is one of the most common misdiagnosis's on the K4M's deployed in the Megane II/Scenic II since 2004 with VVC and if you don't check the system is/is not functioning correctly with CLIP you can find yourself spending out your hard earned cash and still having the original problem. The current N/A and Turbocharged F4R's that employ VVC are not as common (197/200 included) but there are a few starting to crop up now with this cam sensor issue so don't be quick to blame the dephaser without having it correctly diagnosed.
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Then somebody asked what the symptoms of a VVC system being in "Limp mode" were and he replied...

MicKPM said:
@Markhardy - Effects are (generally) increased fuel consumption and a lack of urgency when you push the "go" pedal flat to the floor which both are "normal" characteristics of a "Go'133". The first thing you need to do is get the car looked at by someone that knows them (Preferably not the dealers) and has more than just a generic code reader in their tool shed (Ideally a scope with at least two channels and the means to use it properly).

Mick
Click to expand...

Might be related to my issue?
 
@Jim_ Somebody pm'd me about this recently and I wrote up a big reply and because I'm lazy I'm just gonna copy and paste :tearsofjoy:

"Yeah few months back felt like my car was losing power, but to be honest I'm not sure exactly what solved it because I tried so much in such a short timespan, it's difficult to say what actually fixed it.

I'd say a few things to try in this order though that might help:
  1. Check your map sensor is secure, either tie it down or use some gasket sealant around it
  2. Make sure your dipstick and oil cap are on properly, give the o rings around them a bit of a clean, if there's any sort of air being dragged in from a bad seal it will affect performance quite a bit
  3. I'm not sure it was related, but my car was sat stationary for a long time, and I seemed to lose power when my fuel was getting low ish (80/90miles left in tank), so I had a theory that a deposit had built up causing less fuel to be injected so I used some RedX a few times when I fuelled up and since then it seemed better
  4. I think part of my issue was caused by one of the rear pads being stuck, meaning the car was constantly braking slightly, When I changed the rear pads they were seized to the caliper and once I'd replaced them the car accelerated a lot more smoothly and felt faster. You could try cleaning them and check to make sure they're not seized?
Sorry I can't give you a more solid answer, but I hope one of the above helps :smile:"
 
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@Dystant Thanks for the conclusion, and no worries on the copy & paste, I'd of done the same

I've been having similar issues of late. Already discovered a binding rear caliper which improved things once fixed, although it's still not pulling through the rev range as it should. Camshaft sensor's next on the list!
 
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Siliconsteve said:
Vvt kicks in about 5 thousand ish. if it's flat before that it's not that. just because belt done doesn't mean it's done right. seen a few with one of the cams out. missfire?
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vvt on 197/200 is continusly variable so it can actually come in at different rev range - what you should feel is it been keener to rev over 4000rpm
 
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I have the exact same problem with my car. When it gets hot, it becomes sluggish, usually when stuck in stop start traffic, etc.
 
Usman said:
I have the exact same problem with my car. When it gets hot, it becomes sluggish, usually when stuck in stop start traffic, etc.
Click to expand...

that will be heat soak effecting air inlet temps & the knock on effect it will also run less timing advance too due engine heat
 
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