Hesitation/jerking from cold

[JM197]

As per the title. Any pointers to chronic jerking/hesitation on my recently acquired 2006 197?
It only appears to be when pulling away from stone cold if caught wrong on the throttle. If eased in super gentle it's passable for the first couple of minutes, after that it improves quickly as it warms up.
The problem feels like it's exaggerated by excessive engine movement...worn engine mounts/stabaliser of some sorts?
I'm not new to performance cars, though this is my 1st fast Renault, but a point in the right direction would be much appreciated....many thanks.

Jason

 

[Marsch]

They're known for "kangarooing" if they're cold. It has something to do with the engine management. If you let the car idle for a minute after a cold start the problem gets reduced but doesn't totally goes away. Therefore you need to have it remapped.

Engine mounts are wearing out quite fast on these cars but the kangarooing isn't related to this. You can get PU replacement/addon inserts for the mounts. If you search the forum for "PowerFlex" you should find more detailed infos.

 

[JM197]

Thanks for reply. I've tried that on a couple of occasions and yes it reduces the issue a bit...probably a bit lean on the cold start mapping then....and exaggerating worn mounts.

I did wonder about an upgrade on the mounts or bushes, but a change to a similar type you mention on my workhorse Octavia TDi turned it into a vibrating tractor, so may look at making something more suitable and rubber based or just some new O.E bushes or mounts.
It's an occasional daily/weekend car (though I've not been able to stay out of it in the 10 days I've owned it!) with a couple of track days a year thrown, so it has to remain 80% road usable/compliant rather than a raw "feels like a race car but isn't" experience...just sold one of those.

Who's really good at mapping these to gel everything together nicely rather than looking for 2hp at the top end near the Southwest/Devon ?....I'm guessing k-tec in Dorset?

I've seen the very good, bad, and downright ugly of the tuning world in 37 years of oily fingers, and less than a handful have ever been truly impressive.

All ideas welcome

Many thanks

 

[turkie172]

Why not sign up, the "how to" section will help see different maintenance and info on the Clio it's £5 or there is other options for permanent membership. In order to help remember to give a little background it may seem unconnected but we don't know the car and also pictures can bring a lot of attention and therefore generate more help. It's just some people cuts stuff off remove things then come online asking why something is not working it just saves time and gets you the right answer.
Anyway what your experiencing is a normal common problem referd to as a cold start issue if the car is started and driven off right away it will happen in the first 1/2 mile or 20 - 30 seconds the car at normal non racing acceleration feels like it's losing power like running out of fuel and if you press down on the accelerator it feels like it's getting worse. I have found that if you lift off then bring the accelerator back in gently the car picks up and the problem disappears. Now the engine is old for emissions it is said the cold start programing is retarded to get the car up to temperature quicker ( you notice a slightly different engine note cold start that hot start) as there is a time period to meet emission levels, Also there is a sensor called the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold that does not seal 100% and measures the air pressure and alters fueling which can also cause the issue or make it worse. Or there is the X factor that someone has removed one or both CATS or fitted aftermarket exhausts that have their own problems with performance. The map sensor can be fixed with a cable tie or a bracket with varying but normally success, also there is a dealer remap that was designed to improve the problem refoered to as
Bracket to fix Map Sensor
Cable Tie

 

[turkie172]

Don't go grab the MAP sensor many people do and break the neck off into the intake manifold see what it looks like first so you know what your dealing with after that it's common sense good fuel is supposed to help but to be honest super unleaded that has been sitting around is most likely no better that fresh normal unleaded.

 

[Marsch]

I did wonder about an upgrade on the mounts or bushes, but a change to a similar type you mention on my workhorse Octavia TDi turned it into a vibrating tractor, so may look at making something more suitable and rubber based or just some new O.E bushes or mounts.

That's why most people use the "Road Series" which as the name suggests is ment to be used on the street and only do the upper engine mount and keep the rest stock. That's the best compromise if it comes to vibrations.

 

[thunderstarter]

Don't go grab the MAP sensor many people do and break the neck off into the intake manifold see what it looks like first so you know what your dealing with after that it's common sense good fuel is supposed to help but to be honest super unleaded that has been sitting around is most likely no better that fresh normal unleaded.

Like I did last week and snapped the bastard thing off [emoji2357]

Inlet plenum coming off tonight to finally replace the sensor which arrived today


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JM197]

Brilliant thanks for the replies...I'll look at signing up for sure.

That's pretty much how it happens first start of the morning, and I find the same by lifting out the throttle then going back on super gentle I can control it for the first 10-20 seconds or so down my street until I join the main road then work up through the gears. Once I join the A road 2 miles on its fine, it's literally the first time changing into 2nd then going back on the throttle it jumps around.
If I could get the equipment to access the ecu we could do it on our local rolling road where stand alone ECU's are mapped, or sounds like a trip to someone experienced with the specific issue.

I take on board the possible retarding issue, many manufacturers do that to light up the cat for omissions so that makes sense. I doubt VVT helps in that sense either.

It's a totally STD car, no bits missing or changed, std exhaust including both cats, 86k and looks to have been well looked after and maintained with stamped history. I'll certainly check the map sensor...I'll be careful!...duly noted thanks!

It runs on super all the time, BP 97 or Shell 99....95 is for a shopping trolley.

I'll check out the road spec bushes too thanks. I used a road spec bush in my TDi but that's terrible, it was even a diesel specific shore rating....will be swapped for an O.E one when time permits.

Thanks for all the pointers folks.