Got a few audio questions (200 Cup 2009)

[Sibbers]

OK, I've bought some of this stuff already and failed but I'm gonna have another go soon.

Question time!

1) Where do people normally store the crossover packs that come with components?
2) Is wiring the tweeters going to make me cry, does anyone have any tips?
3) Is getting the wiring in and out of the doors fairly standard? Can I squeeze speaker wire through the boots in the doors?
4) I have the boggo standard stereo which never seems to show in any pics. I bought the connects2 adaptor ending in 005 and it didn't work, so now I'm gonna try the one that ends in 007.2 - will it work?
5) Do I need anything special other than the normal cage to fit my headunit? It looked behind like there is nothing to support the weight of the HU - is this a problem?
6) For sound deadening, I've done the front doors (silent coat MLV and 10mm foam) but should I be focusing on the rear quarters too? Where else are the biggest gains?

Anyone know any good forums for car audio install chatter?

That's all I can think of for now. I've searched high and low, but don't find much. I guess people want to drive these things more than listen to tunes while commuting to work and back.

 

[Sibbers]

Here’s the boggo stereo. Anyone know how it’s usually referenced?

 

[Sibbers]

Answering Q3 on the door speaker wiring - https://clio197.net/threads/route-speaker-wire-through-door-harness.10915/

 

[Sibbers]

Answering Q2 after having removed the 'tweeters' and discovered that my Cup has the wires fitted and a little pretend plastic tweeter lives in there. Taking them out was a bit of a challenge, but it seems like you can get a very thin flat edge screwdriver and raise them up by a few mils, then on the left and right sides are the plastic retainers which you can insert you small screwdriver into and press inwards and upwards to pop them up - once this is done push down further on the opposite (lower) side and towards the side that is raised where it'll pop out - apparently these are fragile and brittle plastic but mine came out easily enough.

With regard to whether or not it will make me cry. Probably a little bit. It's not obvious where the wire will come out, but with enough of it I'm sure I'll find an end and figure it out. I'll keep chatting to myself here as I go.

 

[VolumeX]

You can make a hole in the harass and feed it through. search for route speaker wire through door harness and there are some pictures to guide you.
In terms of sound proofing: If you want it done properly, I suggest doing the roof, the most overlooked panel in the whole car and when it rains its silent. A worthy project and do the rears swell, bring down the Db's from the big rear wheel arch area.
Anyways GL.

 

[Sibbers]

Is that the link I posted above? If so, sorted.

Roof sounds like a good idea and looks pretty easy, but I have a feeling that the floor and bulkhead might be the place to dial out most of the noise I experience. Would you agree with that?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Sibbers]

Did the rear quarters and wheel arches and now it’s a lot quieter. Didn’t take much and there’s already foam in there.

Boggo standard adaptor worked a treat.

Getting the wires in was not too bad once the glove box and under steering wheel dash was off, but the headunit is a pig when you have so much stuff to try and hide away. Having the air vents out makes it easier, but it’s still a pig.

Its fully wired up now, but fitting 6.5” speakers up front is going to take an angle grinder and a steady hand I think. Will see if I can get some baffles together as I want to keep it looking oem. Hmm. a job for another day!

 

[Sibbers]

1) Where do people normally store the crossover packs that come with components?
2) Is wiring the tweeters going to make me cry, does anyone have any tips?
3) Is getting the wiring in and out of the doors fairly standard? Can I squeeze speaker wire through the boots in the doors?
4) I have the boggo standard stereo which never seems to show in any pics. I bought the connects2 adaptor ending in 005 and it didn't work, so now I'm gonna try the one that ends in 007.2 - will it work?
5) Do I need anything special other than the normal cage to fit my headunit? It looked behind like there is nothing to support the weight of the HU - is this a problem?
6) For sound deadening, I've done the front doors (silent coat MLV and 10mm foam) but should I be focusing on the rear quarters too? Where else are the biggest gains?

Answering my own Q's in case it helps others.

1) There is space behind the glove box, there is also space in the doors behind the cards. I went active, so took them out but it was fine before with a few cable ties.
2) It's not that bad, remove glove box and under steering wheel column fascia and as long as your happy to get on your knees its simple enough - wires will just fall down if you give them a wiggle.
3) See above for link - you need to make holes in the plastic connectors and then its just a mtter of feeding through the boots (hardest bit, fiddly but do-able - I pulled the boots out to save my sanity)
4) For the boggo stereo, connects2 adaptor that ends in 007.2 works
5) Nothing else required. Remember to put the clio specific fascia in before the cage goes in and turn the bendy metal bits up to hold it all in and keep things from moving. Important because there isn't much room if you have lots of plugs at the back.
6) Front doors, Rear quarters and boot. Roof didn't seem that important based on the noise levels I recorded.

Lastly, you can fit 6.5" speakers fairly easily without having to angle grind anything. I removed (cut off) the rear plastic from behind the speakers on the door cards to allow the extra depth of the new speakers and placed an MDF speaker ring (12mm) in front of the door card to take up the extra space - after drilling 8 holes (to mount the speaker ring to the door and the speaker to the ring) I used small drill bit to get pilot holes, all of which ended up inside the speaker mounting area so it can be returned to OEM without any visible signs of modification - I drilled small holes in the metal door skin to get a good secure fixing, pained everything up in matt black (to protect from moisture primarily, but also so it doesn't look out of place) and it went together easier than any of the other steps. Hardest bit is wiring the doors up.

 

[Sibbers]

Added some Audison voce 1.1 tweeters which sound great, you can cross them over really low (they go down to 2khz) taking the burden off the mid bass drivers and they fit perfectly flush and are completely reversible. Raises the image and do wonders for vocals. I found mine for a hundred quid. Will take a pic, coz fitting is as easy as pushing them into place with little metal gripper rings they provide - pretty handy if you’re going active as I did.

 

[Sibbers]

Here’s how the tweeters look. Pretty fortunate they take up the exact same space.