front shock removal question

Put a cloth around the shaft then put the vice grips on it to minimize the marks. Make sure you have not split the Allen key wall on top soak a little WD40 on the nut about 20 mins before trying to allow it to work its way in.
 
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Or, put thick rubber around the shaft, it will grip better than cloth.
Think I slackened the nut whilst it was still in the car.
Air gun or similar may help if you can borrow one.
 
Sorry to hear you hit a few issues, Im going to have to order fresh top mounts when it comes to doing mine, rust had definitely kicked in when I took of the scuttle panel and inspected the tops of the top mounts.

Out of interest what springs are you going with, have you decided to go with standard springs?

Also when it comes to putting the struts back on, what method are you going to follow?
 
While you have the leaf screen of and scuttle exposed, it's worth checking that the drains are clear.
If they block, the scuttle fills with water, causes your wiper mechanism to corrode and seize and if water gets in the heater opening, it can soak the pollen filter and cause the motor resistor wiring to burn out!
Seen this a couple of times.
 
Thanks for the replies chaps. For putting the shocks back in, I'm planning to loosely locate them in the top mounts (with springs compressed) then reattach to the hub with the pinch bolt. I'll clean up the hub mountings and use a bit of grease to get the shock to locate. Hopefully teh top bolt on the new shocks will tighten up ok with allen driver and a swan necked 18mm spanner. Then tighten the top mounts and re-attach the two drop links. I'll also put loads of bilt hamber wax on the top nut so it doesnt corrode again.
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Good point on the scuttle - i've pressure washed all around behind wipers,etc and have applied loads of anti-corrosion wax in all the nooks and crannies. The 200 seems far better designed for water drainage than the 172. I have a 172 cup and have spent days chasing and sealing up leaks on that. Touch wood, that one is now water tight.

I've gone with the OEM springs and shocks. Its just a road car and I like the original set up.
i'll let you know how i get on:smile:
 
Just to finish this one up for future reference, It is possible to change the shocks and springs without removing the hubs,etc. As was mentioned, its bloomin fiddly with the spring compressors and its very easy to round off the allen bolts when removing shocks and droplink - I had to replace mine due to that. I've put bilthamber anti-corrossion wax on the new bolts,etc to preserve them if I or a future owner needs to do this job again.
Just had new tyres tracking done this morning and the car is going well,
Many thanks to everyone for their help!
 
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Im glad youve had success with changing the front struts, Im still to do mine but will be back on here reading up and following the process youve outlined on here.

Im still yet to decide on which springs to go with, Eibach or the H&R, I do like the lowered stance but clearly handling has to not be compromised.

One job I have managed to do since the last time I posted is re painting the rear callipers which now look pretty amazing!

It sounds like you managed the replacement on the struts relatively hassle free then, one thing I will note is the anti-corrossion wax.

I have to wait until next week before ordering the springs / top mounts, but think now it would be good practice to order the bolts / nuts to replace the old ones with.
 
@197JST I'm just in the process of fitting eibachs on standard dampers, got them cheap from AUTODOC but delivery from Germany took over a fortnight!

I did rear springs this eve, fronts are still on standard springs so you can see some difference, I'm hopeing they don't drop too much more as I don't want the wheels to look sunken in the arches, a few pics:

DSC_3469.JPG
DSC_3468.JPG

Probably gonna do the front springs tomorrow... :tonguewink:
 
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WD40 the blots tonight and let them sit if the bolts are stiff run them back and forth to gain a little every time and the top nut on the shock let it soak people hit them with WD40 just before, but it takes time to pernitrate. Also before doing the hub assemblies I had a go at every bolt before starting the job to make sure they would move if they didn't then I would not have wasted time.
 
What thats a real bargain at that price, thanks for the link!

Am I right in thinking that the springs will fit either the standard or cup struts? I thought you had to specify when ordering as the springs are slightly different, am I right in thinking that or is that nonsense?

I have to say thats a really nice looking paint job! Such a cool colour!

It has a subtle drop on the rears, dropping it a couple of cm on the front just gives it that edge, let me know what the drives like after youve completed the job?

Are you going to do the work with the spring compressors or remove the hub carrier?
 
Yeah, they've got up too I only paid £130ish... Don't matter which springs it's just the later 200's with different top mounts you've got to avoid. I got Febi top mounts from the same place and they were dirt cheap too, think £17 each with full bearings etc.

I'll let you know how it rides, not expecting a huge difference as I haven't changed the dampers (yet), wanna see how it feels on standard ones first...

As for the hubs I'm undecided, pretty sure my struts will be siezed in solid so I'm gonna give it one whack and it doesn't budge just whip the whole thing out... I've had hubs apart before so I know the crack! :angry:
 
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Ill be interested to find out how it goes so keep me posted, Im on a 59 plate so Im on the early top mounts.

The prices on that site are a bit of a no brainer so ill defo be ordering some parts from there in the future!

My projects are suspension and then exhaust, which Id like to open peoples views on which to go for
 
@197JST to answer your earlier question... :smile:

DSC_3479.JPG

No f*ing way are those dampers coming out without a fight, I could get the nearside bolt to spin but the offside one is siezed solid!!!

Took about 4 hours to strip out both struts (the lower balljoints were a pain), got one spring swapped then noticed I've been sent two RH top mounts, ffs! :rage:

DSC_3483.JPG

Can't even be arsed to chase it up, ordered a LH top mount rubber from Amazon for a tenner, hopefully it'll be here before the weekend...
 
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check out the video KYB top mounts for a modus are the same as the Clio they point out two rubber squares that go to the outside no one mentions such a thing it must compensate to reinforce or level the top mount.
 
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Am I right in thinking, that from the top of your picture where the suspension parts are laid out that from the top, the 3 parts are part of the top mount kit?

Based on the link (which is a massive saving over the price on pure motor sports) Im going with the Eibach Pro's I was leaning towards the H&R but in terms of reviews the Eibach seem to be leading in performance as well.

Thanks for the support, if you dont mind sharing a picture once youve finished fitting the fronts that would be cool to see
 
Am I right in thinking, that from the top of your picture where the suspension parts are laid out that from the top, the 3 parts are part of the top mount kit?

Based on the link (which is a massive saving over the price on pure motor sports) Im going with the Eibach Pro's I was leaning towards the H&R but in terms of reviews the Eibach seem to be leading in performance as well.

Thanks for the support, if you dont mind sharing a picture once youve finished fitting the fronts that would be cool to see

If you mean the pic Link posted, the parts are
Top mount > bump stop > top mount bearing > dust boot.

Top mount consists of 2 bits, the bearing sits on top of the spring then the top mount sits on top of that, with a nut on top of that to stop it coming off.

The bunp stop sits on the shaft of the damper and as there in extreme compression scenarios to stop the damper from bottoming out (and bending) by slowing down the compression.
The dust boot covers the damper shaft where it goes to the body of the damper, to stop dirt / debri from getting in and damaging a seal (and subsequently leaking oil).
 
Good evening,

I was looking on RPD for the top mounts, I haven't ordered yet though, Im not sure if this is all included in the top mount kit then?

Top mount > bump stop > top mount bearing > dust boot. I know you have to get the dust boot separately though. Its just if the bump stop and bearing are included :think:


Ive just checked on that other site to find that the Eibach Pro springs dont fit my vehicle.

My car is a cup and I already purchased the cup struts, so when I put in my reg in auto doc it says that the Eibach springs won't fit, Ive heard people say that the fittings are slightly different then based on cup or non cup struts / suspension set up.

Sorry to ask so many questions, I just want to get it right when it comes to doing it.
 
Good evening,

I was looking on RPD for the top mounts, I haven't ordered yet though, Im not sure if this is all included in the top mount kit then?

Top mount > bump stop > top mount bearing > dust boot. I know you have to get the dust boot separately though. Its just if the bump stop and bearing are included :think:


Ive just checked on that other site to find that the Eibach Pro springs dont fit my vehicle.

My car is a cup and I already purchased the cup struts, so when I put in my reg in auto doc it says that the Eibach springs won't fit, Ive heard people say that the fittings are slightly different then based on cup or non cup struts / suspension set up.

Sorry to ask so many questions, I just want to get it right when it comes to doing it.

The RPD link of top mounts are the top mount + bearing + nut (the bearing is the white bit in the pic on their site).

Dust boot and bump stop are normally sold together (or if your current ones are ok, worse case swap them, but ideally you want new).

Spring diameters changed with year, 197 and early 200s had the "large top mount" design, later 200s had "small top mount" design.

Then 197 and the 200 had cup and non cup, this changed the stiffness and length of the spring (cups being stiffer) also the damper was stiffer. But fundamentally the design was the same.
So you could put cup dampers and springs on a non-cup and vice versa.

So just make sure if you have a 197/early 200 you have the larger diameter springs, dampers and top mounts.
If you have a later 200, you have the smaller diameter springs, damper and top mounts.
 
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This makes sense, thank you so much!

Its good to discuss with people in the know. Mines an early 200

Im going to build up from new, as on the OSF the strut is misting oil and on the NSF it sounds like the top mount bearing is shot, so the plans to build up and swap straight over.

Ill update with the progress, but thank you so much for your help!