Thanks Dumdum. Replaced the aerial base today and much better. Didn't notice any particular drop out on the way home.
Come at me with all you audio questions!
- Thread starter Dumdum
- Start date
Phenom
Paid Member
I might be a little late to this thread but i have two questions i cannot find answers for
in the thread about keeping the stalk control and sub-display with the APF-D102RE cable, it is mentioned at the end that it works in a 197 with this display:
https://www.clio197.net/attachments/hqdefault-jpg.102026/
does this cable work with a 200 with this style of sub-display?
https://www.bristolstreet.co.uk/used-hi/r/rj11elx-12^1500x1000^.jpg
link to original thread: https://www.clio197.net/threads/info-retaining-stalk-controls-and-oem-display.5179/
second question, my 200 currently has this head unit in it:
https://www.cliosport.net/attachments/4e96761d-24bf-471e-b9b1-55651d8942f6-jpg.1022686/
can one of these head units be swapped in and just work?
https://www.cliosport.net/attachments/8635512056_98b3f37721-jpg.1022692/
my only aim with both of these questions is just to get bluetooth connectivity in the car but keep it looking as OEM as possible, i would prefer the second way of doing this as i believe those head units have bluetooth, but i don't mind spending the extra notes to go the route of using a alpine as long as it keeps the sub display working
in the thread about keeping the stalk control and sub-display with the APF-D102RE cable, it is mentioned at the end that it works in a 197 with this display:
https://www.clio197.net/attachments/hqdefault-jpg.102026/
does this cable work with a 200 with this style of sub-display?
https://www.bristolstreet.co.uk/used-hi/r/rj11elx-12^1500x1000^.jpg
link to original thread: https://www.clio197.net/threads/info-retaining-stalk-controls-and-oem-display.5179/
second question, my 200 currently has this head unit in it:
https://www.cliosport.net/attachments/4e96761d-24bf-471e-b9b1-55651d8942f6-jpg.1022686/
can one of these head units be swapped in and just work?
https://www.cliosport.net/attachments/8635512056_98b3f37721-jpg.1022692/
my only aim with both of these questions is just to get bluetooth connectivity in the car but keep it looking as OEM as possible, i would prefer the second way of doing this as i believe those head units have bluetooth, but i don't mind spending the extra notes to go the route of using a alpine as long as it keeps the sub display working
My area of expertise is after market sounds being honest, however the alpine display adaptor is specifically for headunits only with ‘update list’ written on the front, if the 200 display isn’t update list it may well use different protocols and probably wont work, they tend to be very specific to displays and radios they will work with as all displays/cars are different
As for the second question about the radio swap, again it may or may not work, was the second an option for 200’s or is it out of another car completely like a Laguna or Megane, if it’s an option for 200’s then it should work, although displays may be different and model specific, perhaps try asking (not buying! Just get info... but they don’t know that) your local Renault dealer if there is a unit that will do as you require to fit direct in your car... then find one and get it programmed with clip if it needs the vin put in it
As for the second question about the radio swap, again it may or may not work, was the second an option for 200’s or is it out of another car completely like a Laguna or Megane, if it’s an option for 200’s then it should work, although displays may be different and model specific, perhaps try asking (not buying! Just get info... but they don’t know that) your local Renault dealer if there is a unit that will do as you require to fit direct in your car... then find one and get it programmed with clip if it needs the vin put in it
burrellbloke
Paid Member
Did you ever swap the head units? I picked up a 200 Cup and was hoping to get OEM bluetooth connectivity like you?
If it did work do you know the part number for the bluetooth head unit?
Phenom
Paid Member
Never tried tbh, didn't want to throw money at something that I wasn't confident was going to work.
Part number for the headunit is 281159389R but i dont know if you will need the tomtom screen.
if you need the tomtom screen the part number is 259156554R.
as far as i know the headunit should be plug and play to get it woking at least the dashtop screen is were it gets confusing. lots of unsure answers to question on this.
don't know if the bluetooth headunit will work with the normal dash top display as there are a few different versions of that and could never find a clear answer.
if it doesn't work you'll need the tomtom display but your car wont have the loom needed for the tomtom display so will most likely need to source a loom from a tomtom clio or atleast the satnav part of it.
It's still something im very keen on doing but got a list of things i want to do with the clio im working my way through. if you ever give it a go please let me know how it goes and ideally if you can just buy the tomtom headunit and use it without needing the tomtom screen and wiring.
sorry cant be more help than that
Do you have any experience with active subs? I bought a 8inch Kenwood. Fitted under passenger seat with standard head unit. Tbh didn’t make much of an improvement. Could only hear it at the upper volume range.
Then decided to replace head unit with a much less 50x4 with pre out for the sub. Sound is much better to standard speakers but still sounds a bit hollow at lower volume ranges. And even then, the sub only sort of kicks in at higher volumes and then only in a small range before it distorts.
My next upgrade is a set of 2 way speakers (ordered JVC) and should install when they arrive.
Based on your general feedback above I should be sealing the doors (which seems too complex for me).
The other thing is the active sub isn’t that secure. It’s screwed into the carpets so I think it’s losing some power due to that.
Any other advise you have? I basically just want better sound. Don’t need a professional setup.
Then decided to replace head unit with a much less 50x4 with pre out for the sub. Sound is much better to standard speakers but still sounds a bit hollow at lower volume ranges. And even then, the sub only sort of kicks in at higher volumes and then only in a small range before it distorts.
My next upgrade is a set of 2 way speakers (ordered JVC) and should install when they arrive.
Based on your general feedback above I should be sealing the doors (which seems too complex for me).
The other thing is the active sub isn’t that secure. It’s screwed into the carpets so I think it’s losing some power due to that.
Any other advise you have? I basically just want better sound. Don’t need a professional setup.
Frank Perry
Platinum Member
(No offence here!) It sounds like the active sub you have may be cheapy and probably wasn't designed to offer a huge amount of bass. Generally, active subs are pretty terrible anyway. What head unit did you upgrade to? If it's a low end chinese head-unit, you'll notice the difference in quality and you won't have as many settings to play about with in order to get the best sound out of your speakers and subwoofer.
As far as the upgrade of speakers, the standard speakers aren't THAT bad - when I say this, I'm comparing them to a set of £30 JVC replacements. You may notice you won't hear much difference in quality, or you may even notice you've lost a bit of low end frequency due to the JVC's not being able to put out certain lower frequencies. Ask yourself - are the JVC's really an 'upgrade'?
I have a single 12" Pioneer competition subwoofer with dual 4ohm voice coil, rated up to 800watts RMS but people have passed nearly 1Kw through these subs before. This is powered by a JL Audio JX1000/D amplifier. It certainly pumps out some bass and at some superior frequencies too, box being built to suit frequencies best at around 33-35Hz. I haven't changed any other speakers because the factory ones are more than capable of handling high volumes if you have a head unit that is able to tune out a lot of lower frequencies. I have my front and rear speakers set to HPF (High-Pass Filter) ~80-100Hz. This means at high volume, the speakers do not distort. The bass comes from the 12" sub in the rear and the speakers take care of the mids/highs. I have contemplated upgrading the speakers to some Focals but I gave up because I don't play music often, and if I do, it's always on low because I genuinely enjoy the sound of the car than any music that is playing haha.
I would check your head unit settings and pre-outs on the head unit. If you have a dedicated Sub output, you may have some options here to increase the volume a bit, if that is what you're after. It may be that your active sub requires a certain voltage from the pre-outs on your head unit but without knowing exactly what kit you're dealing with, it's difficult to tell.
Drop me a message if you want some more help with the sound system!
It doesn’t look too bad. Reviews seem positive. I don’t know why I didn’t find this when looking for an active sub. I think I preferred the under seat situation. I actually bought a 12 inch FLI active sub but when I saw it in the boot, it took up for too much space.
Anyways, I bought two now already, don’t think I’m going for a third [emoji3]
(No offence here!) It sounds like the active sub you have may be cheapy and probably wasn't designed to offer a huge amount of bass. Generally, active subs are pretty terrible anyway. What head unit did you upgrade to? If it's a low end chinese head-unit, you'll notice the difference in quality and you won't have as many settings to play about with in order to get the best sound out of your speakers and subwoofer.
As far as the upgrade of speakers, the standard speakers aren't THAT bad - when I say this, I'm comparing them to a set of £30 JVC replacements. You may notice you won't hear much difference in quality, or you may even notice you've lost a bit of low end frequency due to the JVC's not being able to put out certain lower frequencies. Ask yourself - are the JVC's really an 'upgrade'?
I have a single 12" Pioneer competition subwoofer with dual 4ohm voice coil, rated up to 800watts RMS but people have passed nearly 1Kw through these subs before. This is powered by a JL Audio JX1000/D amplifier. It certainly pumps out some bass and at some superior frequencies too, box being built to suit frequencies best at around 33-35Hz. I haven't changed any other speakers because the factory ones are more than capable of handling high volumes if you have a head unit that is able to tune out a lot of lower frequencies. I have my front and rear speakers set to HPF (High-Pass Filter) ~80-100Hz. This means at high volume, the speakers do not distort. The bass comes from the 12" sub in the rear and the speakers take care of the mids/highs. I have contemplated upgrading the speakers to some Focals but I gave up because I don't play music often, and if I do, it's always on low because I genuinely enjoy the sound of the car than any music that is playing haha.
I would check your head unit settings and pre-outs on the head unit. If you have a dedicated Sub output, you may have some options here to increase the volume a bit, if that is what you're after. It may be that your active sub requires a certain voltage from the pre-outs on your head unit but without knowing exactly what kit you're dealing with, it's difficult to tell.
Drop me a message if you want some more help with the sound system!
No offense taken at all. The kenwood sub I have had decent reviews. And I wasn’t looking for thumping bass, just enough to fill out the lack of deep bass. Anyways, lesson learned. This one isn’t strong enough, and I thought that a 12 inch in the boot would be overkill.
Anyways, I did install the JVC front two way speakers and... all I can say is the standard speakers are definitely better quality than I thought. In fact, even with thier tiny magnet (the JVC is much bigger and feels more substantial) they put out a fair amount of bass.
Interestingly the rear standard speakers are two ways (have a small tweeter in them) so now I’m thinking of swopping them with the front standard speakers.
In terms of head unit, it’s a Pioneer. It is a basic one but had the right features for me (iPod control and 50x4 output and pre out for sub). That alone with the standard speakers and no active sub is a pretty ok setup.
These are the settings I tuned for JVC. I had to send a lot less bass to the JVC (they distort quickly on a lot of bass) but the problem is the active sub isn’t effective enough for the rest.
From my research and other advice, a good quality component speaker setup is my next step if I want to improve the sound. Either that or just fit the big 12 inch sub I also have lying around.
Anyways, appreciate the input. As you can see I’m not an expert and have been playing around. I know a lot more now but it’s all school fees so far
Standard front speaker
Vs JVC
Frank Perry
Platinum Member
Fair play - we've all been in that situation where we have little experience with something and trial & error teaches us a lot. The first thing I did when I got my 197 was upgrade the stock audio system with a Pioneer HU with dual BT, DAB radio and antenna, Microphone for hands free calls and 3 x pre-outs for extended audio options should I wish to upgrade further. Spent a full 12 hours installing this and a 4AWG wiring kit. Been the same for 2 years and I have never had an issue!
With regards to your JVC speakers, they are very low-end, around £18 delivered for a set, so I would probably not even bother fitting them. I'd probably even go as far as to say these are a downgrade over the stock speakers! If you're going to truly upgrade your speakers, check out some well known, high-end brands. Focal or JL Audio would be my choice. Another option you could look into is, run a 4 channel amp to separately amplify your door and rear speakers. Granted this will take some time to wire, but you'll much much more volume and better quality of audio from a dedicated amplifier. Not necessary, but if you get bored and have some bits lying around it's a fun 'project'!
In terms of more lower end bass, I'd go for a tidy little 10" subwoofer. Pop it in the boot, tuck in into the corner and you most likely won't be that bothered about the size or space that you've lost. You could also look into buying some sound deadening material on the doors and around the speakers in the rear, this should help improve bass response and overall quality - not a massive amount but noticeable.
The best advice I can offer at this point though is; Don't buy cheap. Cheap audio will not give you the results you are after - this is from many (30+) audio installs worth of experience.
Good luck and keep pushing!!
With regards to your JVC speakers, they are very low-end, around £18 delivered for a set, so I would probably not even bother fitting them. I'd probably even go as far as to say these are a downgrade over the stock speakers! If you're going to truly upgrade your speakers, check out some well known, high-end brands. Focal or JL Audio would be my choice. Another option you could look into is, run a 4 channel amp to separately amplify your door and rear speakers. Granted this will take some time to wire, but you'll much much more volume and better quality of audio from a dedicated amplifier. Not necessary, but if you get bored and have some bits lying around it's a fun 'project'!
In terms of more lower end bass, I'd go for a tidy little 10" subwoofer. Pop it in the boot, tuck in into the corner and you most likely won't be that bothered about the size or space that you've lost. You could also look into buying some sound deadening material on the doors and around the speakers in the rear, this should help improve bass response and overall quality - not a massive amount but noticeable.
The best advice I can offer at this point though is; Don't buy cheap. Cheap audio will not give you the results you are after - this is from many (30+) audio installs worth of experience.
Good luck and keep pushing!!
jimmybell
Paid Member
Hey - coming from a complete ICE novice - what's the first step to audio upgrades?
I dont want to add any weight really (so no sub box etc), so is there any value in upgrading the existing speakers without changing the headunit first?
If there is multiple factory headunits ·(my car is a 2010 car) is there a way to identify which i have?
The car will eventually become fast road/track only so a rear-seat delete... but i did wonder about having the removable parcel shelf contain speakers/required amps etc and a cable for connecting it all when it's installed for road use and then take it out for track time. though i've no idea if this is even possible never mind a good idea...!
I dont want to add any weight really (so no sub box etc), so is there any value in upgrading the existing speakers without changing the headunit first?
If there is multiple factory headunits ·(my car is a 2010 car) is there a way to identify which i have?
The car will eventually become fast road/track only so a rear-seat delete... but i did wonder about having the removable parcel shelf contain speakers/required amps etc and a cable for connecting it all when it's installed for road use and then take it out for track time. though i've no idea if this is even possible never mind a good idea...!
Phenom
Paid Member
might be irrelevant now but got an email so i'm here to cast my vote the way of the SWE-815, bought mine without too much research and omg for the price and size I don't think you'll find anything close to this.
Hey - coming from a complete ICE novice - what's the first step to audio upgrades?
I dont want to add any weight really (so no sub box etc), so is there any value in upgrading the existing speakers without changing the headunit first?
If there is multiple factory headunits ·(my car is a 2010 car) is there a way to identify which i have?
The car will eventually become fast road/track only so a rear-seat delete... but i did wonder about having the removable parcel shelf contain speakers/required amps etc and a cable for connecting it all when it's installed for road use and then take it out for track time. though i've no idea if this is even possible never mind a good idea...!
My suggestion is upgrade the head unit to a decent one with a 50x4 output and pre out for future use. You lose the steering controls and partial display (unless you get an adaptor). Standard speakers are not too bad.
Ppa
Paid Member
Hello
was wondering if there are any off the shelf rear speakers that can improve upon factory 197 set up
find they vibrate excessively
due more to do with perhaps the way in which they are fitted / the location / big void behind etc and after experimenting with a pioneer set from halfords just to test, found no difference in the vibration compared to originals
not looking for best sound given possible inherent restraints
simply an improvement, even marginal, without having to get involved with sound proofing /deadening etc
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
happy to spend if noticeable improvement has already been achieved by fellow owner
thanks in advance
was wondering if there are any off the shelf rear speakers that can improve upon factory 197 set up
find they vibrate excessively
due more to do with perhaps the way in which they are fitted / the location / big void behind etc and after experimenting with a pioneer set from halfords just to test, found no difference in the vibration compared to originals
not looking for best sound given possible inherent restraints
simply an improvement, even marginal, without having to get involved with sound proofing /deadening etc
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
happy to spend if noticeable improvement has already been achieved by fellow owner
thanks in advance
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