clutch slave cylinder bleed point
- Thread starter Foxspeed
- Start date
mattyealam
Platinum Member
To bleed you push clip in and pull it apart it has to positions bleed and fully clipped in if that makes sense I found it Easyer to pull it apart and the push it in to the first stage hope this helps
So all you need to do basically is just put a length of tube on the nipple, unclip and lull apart the bleed block and let the fluid trickle out?
Do you need to pump the clutch or just let it do its own thing?
How long does it usually take to flow through?
Cheers
Do you need to pump the clutch or just let it do its own thing?
How long does it usually take to flow through?
Cheers
If it helps, I do it like this. Most fwd Nissans use the same slave. You need another person to help.
fill up the reservoir.
pump the pedal a few times and top up fluid again.
push down the clip and get a feel for the bleed point. It's about 10mm backwards from the fully fixed position.
Place some rag over the nipple, and get assistant to pump the clutch slowly with the pipe pushed in.
Pump 5-6 times, then get them to hold the pedal down. While its down, pull the pipe to the bleed position. Let air/fluid escape, then push it back in.
keep doing this until the pedal is good. You'll get fluid start to spray out the nipple, hence the need for rag. You could use a bleed bottle if you wish. I'm used to it, but mind your eyes.
Hope this helps, I've done loads of these and this way never fails. Mind the O rings on the pipe when fitting.
fill up the reservoir.
pump the pedal a few times and top up fluid again.
push down the clip and get a feel for the bleed point. It's about 10mm backwards from the fully fixed position.
Place some rag over the nipple, and get assistant to pump the clutch slowly with the pipe pushed in.
Pump 5-6 times, then get them to hold the pedal down. While its down, pull the pipe to the bleed position. Let air/fluid escape, then push it back in.
keep doing this until the pedal is good. You'll get fluid start to spray out the nipple, hence the need for rag. You could use a bleed bottle if you wish. I'm used to it, but mind your eyes.
Hope this helps, I've done loads of these and this way never fails. Mind the O rings on the pipe when fitting.
Last edited:
Yiannis197
Paid Member
old thread here, needs to be revived
ok so I'm changing brake fluid tomorrow and I'll ask my mechanic to bleed the clutch as well as I wouldn't fancy mixing the ultra expensive SRF with the several times boiled ATE. Now is this something that all mechanics know about or do I have to tell them what to do?
Thanks
ok so I'm changing brake fluid tomorrow and I'll ask my mechanic to bleed the clutch as well as I wouldn't fancy mixing the ultra expensive SRF with the several times boiled ATE. Now is this something that all mechanics know about or do I have to tell them what to do?
Thanks
old thread here, needs to be revived
ok so I'm changing brake fluid tomorrow and I'll ask my mechanic to bleed the clutch as well as I wouldn't fancy mixing the ultra expensive SRF with the several times boiled ATE. Now is this something that all mechanics know about or do I have to tell them what to do?
Thanks
just mention it...should be ok
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Jamz72
Paid Member
I have only just managed to locate this after several attempts at trying to find it ;/ it seems to be underneath the battery/fuse housing..
What is the best way of accessing it to bleed the clutch; from underneath the car or above? If from above; what is best to remove to get to it, the whole battery/fuse housing?
What is the best way of accessing it to bleed the clutch; from underneath the car or above? If from above; what is best to remove to get to it, the whole battery/fuse housing?
I removed the battery to get in, there is no way I could get both my hands in there to do it, I didn't notice a difference in pedal feel until a couple of days after which was strange
Jamz72
Paid Member
So as usual I am having issues.. currently in the middle of doing this.
I can just about get one hand down to the bleed point and I'm trying to open it. Which part do I pull? The metal clip is spring loaded right, so my hand is being occupied by pressing the clip in, do I then pull the clip outwards with the same hand? Obviously I can't pull any other part of it because I'd have to let go of the metal clip and it would spring back up.. Am I doing it right?! It doesn't seem to be budging at all.
Blue arrow is me pushing the clip in and red arrow is me pulling out with the same hand while still pushing the clip in.
I can just about get one hand down to the bleed point and I'm trying to open it. Which part do I pull? The metal clip is spring loaded right, so my hand is being occupied by pressing the clip in, do I then pull the clip outwards with the same hand? Obviously I can't pull any other part of it because I'd have to let go of the metal clip and it would spring back up.. Am I doing it right?! It doesn't seem to be budging at all.
Blue arrow is me pushing the clip in and red arrow is me pulling out with the same hand while still pushing the clip in.
its stiff to push down to the release point, then you pull the full assembly away from the clutch housing it has a bit of give in it to start with then you will feel it click open
A simple but PITA job !!
I've always done this from underneath - car on ramps, undertray off.
Lying with head at the passenger side, right arm up to the pipe.
Press the clip in (easier said) and pull back away from the bellhousing.
Tried an easy bleed a few times but Chris always said there was better pedal feel when pumped / bled manually.
I've always done this from underneath - car on ramps, undertray off.
Lying with head at the passenger side, right arm up to the pipe.
Press the clip in (easier said) and pull back away from the bellhousing.
Tried an easy bleed a few times but Chris always said there was better pedal feel when pumped / bled manually.
