Center Box Replacement with straight pipe - Birmingham Area - **Vid!!!**
- Thread starter Deako
- Start date
200 i think has 63.5mm tubing to start with so for you will be easier as those sleeve clamps will still do the job and just means for you, you just cut out 0.5m and pop pipe straight up instead of doing what i did by just cutting 46cm out so that i could slide pipe over due to difference in pipe diameter.
But just measure the pipe to be sure, I managed that without even jacking the car up by using a digital vernier caliper guage
But just measure the pipe to be sure, I managed that without even jacking the car up by using a digital vernier caliper guage
I found mine (197) to be a little worse than standard, more so when cold. But I never really just floor it from ~2,000RPM anyway so it never bothered me to be honest. It really makes a huge difference to the noise, gives the car that little bit more character (if it needed it). I only went down the K-Tec route that I now have because I got offered the lot at a really good price, otherwise I'd have kept it with just the centre silencer removed.
Here's how mine sounded as a comparrison, slightly deeper than Deakos;
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X065zVA55Fw[/YOUTUBE]
Here's how mine sounded as a comparrison, slightly deeper than Deakos;
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X065zVA55Fw[/YOUTUBE]
Yup sadly, was having a blast on a country road I had to go in to first For a very bad corner and as it was a hill I booted it. Cue me nearly hitting the steering wheel as the flat spot was very very bad! Especially as I was going up hill under a lot of load. Also once warmed was testing to see where the flat spot was put it in 2nd at 2000 floored it and all I got was a load of backfire (sounded mint) but unless it's remapped I think I'm going to revert... The noise is joyful though and the banging when driving normally is imenense!
My flat spot is bad complete loss of power 2000-2800 rpm but once warm or at least when temp gauge is at normal range it's then gone. Although if your very smooth with throttle it doesn't rear it's head and I've now learnt to drive around it had some hairy moments shortly after buying car pulling out and needing to accelerate and then nothing.
Not sure how much learning the ECU does on our cars, but might be worth if it can be done is a reset so that it clears data as it could have become corrupted, something that did occur on my Scooby and giving similar problems when tables were screwed up.
But you would do an ECU reset procedure and then it would rebuild the custom mapping tables over a week, or you could force it to learn in a few hours but that required a long clear road and basically flooring it in a set procedure in set gears but that was too dangerous where i live, as always ran out of clear road.
I'll have a look through the manual, see if it lists anything about reseting ECU.
Not sure how much learning the ECU does on our cars, but might be worth if it can be done is a reset so that it clears data as it could have become corrupted, something that did occur on my Scooby and giving similar problems when tables were screwed up.
But you would do an ECU reset procedure and then it would rebuild the custom mapping tables over a week, or you could force it to learn in a few hours but that required a long clear road and basically flooring it in a set procedure in set gears but that was too dangerous where i live, as always ran out of clear road.
I'll have a look through the manual, see if it lists anything about reseting ECU.
looking through the diags. section. They don't list any resets just tell the techy to perform a re-write of the ECU using their clip diagnostic tool, but did find a reference to this 'Antics Solution 7103' which came out and was applied sometime during 2007 as an update to the ECU software to try and remove the kangaroo effect.
Unfortunately no ECU revisions given as I could have then looked at my ECU (2006 car) and checked to see what it is at. Most faults with cutting out etc. due to either faulty components will according to the manual always record a fault code.
Do you have anyway of hooking into your ECU or have a mate with something like Innovate Motorsports OBD2 data logger (this is what i use) to get either revision or check for codes, could then compare with what mine has.
people mentioned Renault will charge you £90 just to look at ECU if no fault is then found.
Personally I'd go with a custom map such as what RSTuner sell as info they state is it removes cold start issue + as your re-writting ECU is doing what the manual tells the techy. to do and plus side is your getting a better ECU map and can do this when ever you want or return to normal when needed
Unfortunately no ECU revisions given as I could have then looked at my ECU (2006 car) and checked to see what it is at. Most faults with cutting out etc. due to either faulty components will according to the manual always record a fault code.
Do you have anyway of hooking into your ECU or have a mate with something like Innovate Motorsports OBD2 data logger (this is what i use) to get either revision or check for codes, could then compare with what mine has.
people mentioned Renault will charge you £90 just to look at ECU if no fault is then found.
Personally I'd go with a custom map such as what RSTuner sell as info they state is it removes cold start issue + as your re-writting ECU is doing what the manual tells the techy. to do and plus side is your getting a better ECU map and can do this when ever you want or return to normal when needed
[youtube]AHj9BCq2WWE[/youtube]
You can see the flatspot here (watch my right foot) If you nail it you can see the car do nothing then once the RPM climb you can see it takes off!
Its all avoidable like previous posts say I just wanted to show how bad it was in my case.
In the following video you can see how much better it is once warmed although depending on how you drive it can still be there!
[youtube]HCiQT2nrBOw[/youtube]
You can see the flatspot here (watch my right foot) If you nail it you can see the car do nothing then once the RPM climb you can see it takes off!
Its all avoidable like previous posts say I just wanted to show how bad it was in my case.
In the following video you can see how much better it is once warmed although depending on how you drive it can still be there!
[youtube]HCiQT2nrBOw[/youtube]
Last edited:
that is how mine is cold and having it there all the time must be a nightmare.
Does it happen in all gears?
Does it happen in all gears?
Just had mine done, not much louder than standard really just more raspy. Heres an Mp3 of before and after inside the cabin as I'm not sure anyones posted that.
http://www.mediafire.com/?826k6v9q8tbgf49
http://www.mediafire.com/?826k6v9q8tbgf49
Im tempted to get this done, but i've got a powerflow backbox so is there any point to doing this now?
I'm planning to have my silencer removed tomorrow, but jus spoke to a mechanic who said it will kill some of the power due to loss of back pressure. Am I right that this isn't the case for the clio cos its got the 2 cats infront of the silencer?
Mine hasn't felt any different performance wise. If there is a loss, it will be imperceptible.
Once you've heard it, you won't care anyway!
This is Nick: http://www.clio197.net/forum/member.php?u=2925
Once you've heard it, you won't care anyway!
This is Nick: http://www.clio197.net/forum/member.php?u=2925
