Best pads ever

[Legend@wheels]

I have used Ds2500, XP8, all i use now,are ds1.11. This is used on Road,and Track. All the usual apply, get on the brakes,get off,DONT drag them,as this seems to cause brake shudder,and takes a few hard stops to get rid of. ( If you are lucky) This is of course, my own experiences, others might differ.

In my case i think my discs been twisted cuz of overheat.. I dont think few hard brakes(cold/hot conditions) would fix it ..
The steering shudder/vibrations is on high speed only tho (110+) and under that work smoothly.
The solution in this case( if im right and the discs been twisted ) is to resurface the discs or getting new [emoji21]
Why i think its been twisted? Cuz i was on hard driving conditions and once i pushed the brake pedal hard and puff it started.. Very poor braking ability + vibrates/shudder ..

 

[john_walker74]

I have used Ds2500, XP8, all i use now,are ds1.11. This is used on Road,and Track. All the usual apply, get on the brakes,get off,DONT drag them,as this seems to cause brake shudder,and takes a few hard stops to get rid of. ( If you are lucky) This is of course, my own experiences, others might differ.

Spot on. A lot of people also brake too early and lightly...

 

[john_walker74]

In my case i think my discs been twisted cuz of overheat.. I dont think few hard brakes(cold/hot conditions) would fix it ..
The steering shudder/vibrations is on high speed only tho (110+) and under that work smoothly.
The solution in this case( if im right and the discs been twisted ) is to resurface the discs or getting new [emoji21]
Why i think its been twisted? Cuz i was on hard driving conditions and once i pushed the brake pedal hard and puff it started.. Very poor braking ability + vibrates/shudder ..

You probably haven't warped the discs. It is most likely material transfer from the pad to the disc surface causing the strange vibrations and odd feel.

 

[Legend@wheels]

Whats your solution suggest then john?

 

[VolumeX]

Ive got EBC yellow stuff on mine and its an upgrade on the standard stuff. Quicker bite and not so much brake dust.

 

[youngarthur]

Whats your solution suggest then john?

People have different way to do it. I sanded the disks,then went out ,and did several severe stops from 70MPH. That worked. In my early track days,i found that Occasionally i could do very hard braking on track,and that helped. Moral Of story,( I learnt the hard way ) DO NOT DRAG THE BRAKES!.

 

[Legend@wheels]

Im stil pretty much sure the discs twisted lol ,ill try the trick with the sand ..
Since i dont know any other way [emoji4]
By the way you sanded with sandpaper and manualy or with paper and bosch/ makita ( what ever) disc machine ?
And why after sanding you went for few hard brakes?( its pointless ,since the sand did the job)

 

[chris1888-197]

Sorry for hi jacking thread! Anyone tried the red stuff pads on the 197 ? (Rear) ?

 

[Legend@wheels]

I wouldnt put any real strong brakes on the rear xhris .. Kinda pointless .
Stick with the genuine( trw) or something similiar ,its cheap and do the job( whice is almost nothing lol)

 

[chris1888-197]

I wouldnt put any real strong brakes on the rear xhris .. Kinda pointless .
Stick with the genuine( trw) or something similiar ,its cheap and do the job( whice is almost nothing lol)

[MENTION=53199]Legend@wheels[/MENTION] thanks for reply mate, rear pads are low so will change this week.

 

[Yiannis197]

I found that "Rears do nothing/barely anything/not a lot etc" to be one of the greatest misconceptions around the motoring forums. Rear brakes do work and are equally important to the front ones. Not in terms of absolute braking/stopping power but in terms of importance.

A few years back I was following a forum member in the downhills of the black mountains, Wales. At the time I was on DS2500 all around, floating rotors at the front and OEM rotors at the back. We started and finished the run together always keeping safe distance of course but I was braking harder as my suspension setup would allow me to carry more speed. At the end of the run his Mintex (apologies but not sure on the compound) were literally smoking, all four of them. I could see smoke coming out of all wheels however my brakes had just reached their optimum operating temp. Someone would argue that my front floating rotors would dissipate heat at a greater rate and they would be right, what about the rear ones though?

Currently I'm on RC6 all around, there have times after going downhill in the Alps when I could barely touch the rear wheel which of course suggests the obvious.

In terms of mixing and matching pad compounds I personally tend to use the same on both axles. There have been times when I only upgraded the front and the braking imbalance was terrible and sometimes (as pads operate best at different temps) unpredictable.

To reply to the OP, there is no such thing as best pads ever as the variables differ according to the application. My option for a daily and the occasional TD would be the DS2500 however if you push it further than its capabilities it would leave nasty deposits on the disc.

 

[Pav]

well explained Yiannis plus you have got the experience too..spot on..

 

[Legend@wheels]

I found that "Rears do nothing/barely anything/not a lot etc" to be one of the greatest misconceptions around the motoring forums. Rear brakes do work and are equally important to the front ones. Not in terms of absolute braking/stopping power but in terms of importance.

A few years back I was following a forum member in the downhills of the black mountains, Wales. At the time I was on DS2500 all around, floating rotors at the front and OEM rotors at the back. We started and finished the run together always keeping safe distance of course but I was braking harder as my suspension setup would allow me to carry more speed. At the end of the run his Mintex (apologies but not sure on the compound) were literally smoking, all four of them. I could see smoke coming out of all wheels however my brakes had just reached their optimum operating temp. Someone would argue that my front floating rotors would dissipate heat at a greater rate and they would be right, what about the rear ones though?

Currently I'm on RC6 all around, there have times after going downhill in the Alps when I could barely touch the rear wheel which of course suggests the obvious.

In terms of mixing and matching pad compounds I personally tend to use the same on both axles. There have been times when I only upgraded the front and the braking imbalance was terrible and sometimes (as pads operate best at different temps) unpredictable.

To reply to the OP, there is no such thing as best pads ever as the variables differ according to the application. My option for a daily and the occasional TD would be the DS2500 however if you push it further than its capabilities it would leave nasty deposits on the disc.

Well ofc they are important no one said they arent BUT it doesnt require some decent stuff and attention as much as front do .
About the smoke part ,i wouldnt say its better or worse pads/discs and why is that? Because its realy up to the driver maybe your friend just pushed and used it harder than you ,thats not the right way to compare( unless you both used the brake in same way )

 

[VolumeX]

Spot on Yiannis197

I think the rears require good stuff too, even if we drive front wheel cars, the rears do there part (a big part) and here are a few points to ponder on:
Dont take chances, mix & matching, if the fronts are super good, ensure the rears follow suite!

Helps with the final braking distance (reducing)
Assists with no tilting of the body in high speed
Ensures that the front pads work less so in some ways adds to preserving the fronts
If you have to do an emergency stop, were do you think the power actually comes from? (the rears is correct)

 

[john_walker74]

I think when you go to a high friction coefficient brake pad then you really don't want them matching front and rear.

 

[Legend@wheels]

Why? John

 

[john_walker74]

The rears will lock up too easily. Carbotech advised against running xp10 on the rear.

 

[VolumeX]

The rears will lock up too easily. Carbotech advised against running xp10 on the rear.

..is this on standard OEM discs?

 

[john_walker74]

..is this on standard OEM discs?

Yes it is.

 

[Legend@wheels]

Well for a conclusion : go for the genuine ,is the best you can get[emoji4] [emoji1]