Acoustic valve

Contrary to what everyone on here thinks it’ll actually hurt performance. The valve is there for a very good reason.

in gears 1,2,3 the ecu will enable the solenoid so the valve can open, this is to maximise airflow going into the airbox. In the gears above that it remains shut to use the ram-air effect for maximum filling at higher speeds.
 
Does anyone know what position this should be in at idle when in gear? I've put the standard air box back and connected all the hoses but it stays open. :think:
 
Sorry to bring an old thread back :oops:

I have a 200 but the tube to the throttle body is blanked off with a rubber bung from the car having had a KTR induction kit, and the acoustic valve has the tube that connects between them missing. What parts are required to connect this up as the tube appears to have a non return valve or similar but I can't find it on parts breakdowns of the 200 that are online?
Does this have any real effect on the way the car runs such as the 2-2.5k flat spot or when warming up from cold start when it can kangaroo?
 
Correct, in lower gears or RPM the engine benefits from longer intake trajectory to get better torque.
Honda had this on B18c4 engine like found in the 1.8 VTi but then used in the intake manifold itself.
 
So if I want to remove this completely do I just bung (block?) the entry point to the air box? Or the rubber hose that leads to it? And what do people use to “bung” things?
 
So I wound up taking everything off. I left the duct that leads to the airbox in(1st picture). Also, what do I do with this little line that leads to the engine? (Picture 2)

I read somewhere that someone blocked it off. Has anyone done this or is there some kind of bung I can use to seal it off? Should I take it off completely?

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I tought that is warm air intake for when the engine is cold, like on old cars, they had thermostat to close it when engine got warm.
 
Nope. It isnt.
We learn every day. If i undrestood correctly i should leave it as is for best performance, shouldn't I? opening it fully will kill my low rpm performance? There is a lot of useful stuff in this forum i have been reading for last 3 days
 
As mentioned, it’s different from this in the Clio. I know what you’re talking about- my E36 had a secondary air pump that does something very similar. I believe it pumps more air in order to better burn fuel at start up. Either way, that was deleted as is this acoustic valve : )
 
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An update from me- had a few short drives after removing the acoustic valve and there certainly is a noticeable amount of extra growl (can’t find the right adjective) that’s emitted in lower gears in the 2k-3kish range. It’s really pleasant but not too much.

On the third drive today, I finally got a “check emissions light” that has comes with removing this : )

Totally worth it, though unless there’s a quick trick to remove the check engine light.

Here’s a short video of me capping off the portion from the airbox to the now removed acoustic valve.

Ok.. I can’t upload videos so here’s a few screen shots:



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