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ignore this

Bleed point is where you let the air out, so it is somewhere near the top (as air rises)

Thanks, I am wanting to avoid a full fluid change as it was done just before christmas. Should the system bleed itself if I leave it to run and get warm enough for the thermostat to open?

I need to change the stat on my 197, I have seen some pictures and found where it is. Is the change as simple as remove the intake pipes, 3 bolts off, change stat, and put back together? Also what is the best method for bleeding the coolant system after changing the thermostat?

You could also look at Springts/Hill Climbs too, it isn't circuit racing but it is competitive and not that expensive to compete in.

They are very evenly matched to be honest. Fiesta is more refined and has more toys (heated seats are brilliant!) but the Clio is more fun and rides better even with the Cup chassis. My main annoyance with the Fiesta is how it handles bumps, it really crashes into any dips/holes in the road...

Mine has the cup chassis (R27) and it is fine, rides better than the Fiesta ST2 my other half owns. I would say it is about right for a hot hatch, it doesn't bother me in the 15-20k miles I do a year.

Thanks for the reply Rich, all the info I required! :)

Thanks for that, although it seems to mainly have info about the R3 rally car instead of the Cup race cars

What (if any) differences do the race cars have engine wise compared to normal road cars? Was anything done internally?

That will be fine, it won't really get anywhere near those temps unless you are touching engine components directly

I have tried cleaning and re-greasing. Unfortunately with the design of tracks, if something gets in between the bearings it stays there, no matter if it is paint, dust, dirt, etc

Does anyone know if the tracks (runners/sliders) are the same on the Recaros to the normal seats in the rest of the Clio 3 range? I need to change the tracks on the passenger side of mine as they are a bit stiff, if I can use some of the normal clio range then it should be a lot cheaper

For anyone else, you need a type 075 battery, which should be 55Ah+

Can anyone tell me what specs the standard battery is? Mine is finally letting go, just 15 mins with the stereo on flattened it yesterday so the car can have an early Christmas present.

This sort of thing is very uncommon, I would just leave it as is. Most modern cars have fairly open grills yet it is very rare you hear of a radiator going because of a stone, I think you have just been unlucky

That upper piece is OEM if you have sat nav.

Why is it that a lot of the standard plots aren't showing a dip around the 2.5k mark? Are they just being started at a higher RPM so then it doesn't show?

I had a look into if there was any headunits which came with a separate screen to do this exact job instead of using a tablet but couldn't find anything. This looks quite a neat alternative though.

That result is expected. The lower mount and upper torque link restrict the turning movement of the engine (which is the main factor is pick up, gear changes and stopping the Toyo knock) where as the main engine mount is isolating most of the engine vibration.