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There’s a guy on here offers just such a thing, it replaces the lowering mechanism and is said to lower the seat by 6-7cm. It costs £175 plus £30 postage from Hungary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Mine would sometimes not start and if it did, would sometimes die when ticking over. So I did this too recently, the sensor appeared fine when it came out, just a bit grubby. However what a difference, not failed to start or die once since. Great tip. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

That is truly outstanding, I’d not want to drive it if it looked that good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

My own poor driving sometimes when I realise I’ve been a buffoon and inconvenienced someone else. As much as I love driving, I’m not always the best driver, even after 33 years of practice [emoji17] I hope I’m not some of the examples above [emoji6] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Just did the same with mine, genius! I now have a horn again. Sadly I’ve already ordered a new squib [emoji17] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

When you say the wheel, is that behind the airbag or at the plug that plugs into the squib? I’ve got no horn and no power to the horn button yet still power to the fuse, so I’m guessing my squib is bad. Just bought a brand new one from Germany for £105 inc post. Fingers crossed. My only slight...

Lots of possibles as I appreciate you're aware of, but start with simple stuff like tyre pressure, is the front near side down compared to offside? Broken spring, you may need to jack the car up to unload the suspension to check as when loaded, any break, if near the seat may not be apparent...

Magic, thank you Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Welcome to the forum. It’s a great forum, with many helpful members and professional moderators. I’ve not seen one incident of trolling yet. It makes such a difference on a forum when you’re not in fear of being lambasted for asking a stupid question. The car looks great Paul. Mine will be...

Thank you, I plan to keep the car for a while, so would quite like looking at the later clocks with the yellow rev counter and lack of silver surrounds. 197 clocks are so cheap, so I’d probably keep them to replace at sale tome. As you’ve said, I’ll take loads of photos and probably change at...

Thanks guys, great advice, I possibly shouldn’t be so vein Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cheers Eddie, ah well, I’ll just make sure I document the change for when I come to sell it. Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks Sean, is this a Renault only job to reprogram please? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Does anyone know if the 200 clocks fit in the 197 please without needing to reprogram the car? I want the yellow rev counter. Cheers John

I agree 200 with Cup pack, the dash for the Cup had the airbag cutout showing I’m sure. The car looks as though it’s on spacers too. Double check that they are a hub-centric type and that the bolts have also been extended if appropriate.

As far as I know, I’m still on the original box. 2007 with 55,000 miles. No issues whatsoever, that’s the kiss of death right there now! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I’m pretty sure you can use the whole pre 2010 200 Cup shocks on the 197. These are considerably firmer and about £200 a set cheaper than 197 Cup shocks from Renault Parts Direct. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Snap, I too have a GPW, but mine is the GPW-1000GB-1AER with gold accents that actually makes it look more like Honey G than G Shock!

At my rapidly approaching half century and almost as many cars since passing my test 33 years ago, I'm often shocked at cars I've viewed with potential purchase in mind to find exactly the opposite to what I would also suggest is paramount too, maintenance before mods. People have clearly spent...