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Stunning build Do you have a pic showing the aerocatch pins / brackets inside the hatch ? Ignore request just spotted one on page 2

The autolec battery cutoff switch has an auxiliary contact (5A rated) to cut the ignition circuit when the switch is operated thus killing the engine immediately. Has anyone a suggestion as to where to break into the wiring to achieve this (somewhere nice and easy). Does anyone have access to a...

We had to use Pirelli Trofeo for Timeattack, expensive but decent tyres, far better than the Nankang we used previously.

We've use both Godspeed and Reyland bigger disks No brake balance issues, used RS29's in the front and M1144 in the rear. Not sure we noticed any benefit in braking due to disk size. We did try DS1.11 with the Reyland disks and had issues with the disks, we thought this was down to the Reyland...

Have a word with Kev at Kam racing, I'm sure he can supply

As you said the additional 2 replace the pipes to the rear calipers

Yeah - Dave and Jake are cracking guys, give them a go

Jade Developments, Rentune or Motion Motorsport over in Stoke

We settled on the Castrol also after trying several others inc' MTL

SD do one RBR020 5SXU - Rear roll cage, removable back stays, fixed cross diagonal, harness bar May be used alone May have to purchase via Mark Fish Motorsport You could get it fitted locally by Dave at Motion Motorsport

I think KTEC sell them

Depends what you call reasonable, they ain't cheap - £300 + !!

The pad that has given us the least disc issues is the Pagid RS29 We tried the XP10 and they were ok, we did have to skim the disks after one lock up in the wet at Oulton ! On the Meg' we've been using RST3's, had judder issues on Brembo HC plain disc's but no issues with grooved

M10 eyebolts are available For example - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorsport-Harness-Seat-Belt-Eye-Bolt-Metric-M10-x-1-5mm-/371990718687

We had an issue a couple of years ago, car just stopped at a Rockingham Couldn't read ecu with scanguage RAC came out and they couldn't read the ECU either, eventually had it recovered to Dave Hudson (now Motion Motorsport Longton) He found the ECU fuse had blown and there was an engine loom...

Exactly what we used with 20mm spacers 90mm front studs 82mm rear studs - spot on

@rcwsr I assume you are quoting thread length there rather than total stud length ?

We have had a few 20min tuition slots on trackdays - all good, definitely worth doing. I did push the boat out a few years ago and paid for a whole day of tuition 1 to 1 for my son Chris Was it worth it - absolutely YES, Chris learned more that day than he would ever of learned on trackdays...

Also I don't like the idea of 5 wheel nuts holding my wheel on that I can't check without removing the wheel

Personally I'd go with the first option but ditch the bolts in favour of a stud and nut kit. I've seen some pic's previously where the alloy spacer has broken on the second option.