Rear Speakers - Detach or replace?

[197-F1]

Ive looked into the airbag issue, and it shouldnt be a problem. They do detach slightly when the airbag is activated as they are anchored on a ribbon behind the trim. The airbag is in the roof. As long as the pillar builds retain the oem fixings, theyre shouldnt be any difference.

Saying all that though, I think ive found a new mounting location, and am goimg to be fibreglassing some builds shortly

 

[tiababy]

maybe have them on the dash but lower down the current placement so the reverberation off the glass isnt so bad. I'll have a chat with him as the guy knows what he is doing.
he is running the power lead up through the car for the amp switching the back speakers over (as I think me and mb are just gonna put the perfect fit ones in there) and run wires through due to needing to split the wires from the little units to a tweeter/speaker each side.

he said to drop it off around 930-10 and it'll all be done by 3.
gonna ask him to put the aux out in the glovebox as I ran a USB extension for the cir lighter socket under the centre console and into the glovebox for my iPhone charger.

 

[197-F1]

Yep, glovebox is a good location. I have my usb/ipod connector located in my glovebox. keeps things neat and hidden!

I trust he will be putting some sound deadening in during installation?

 

[dancemb]

Im hoping that he would be doing that, I suppose as long as we mention it when we take the car in to make sure, as the car is going to be loaded with lots of expensive speakers, it will be more mandatory to have the sound deadening.

At least the back speakers will be more top of the range, which is the complete opposite of leaving them alone this morning.

Looking forwards to hearing the crispness of the sound system by the end of Tuesday afternoon!

 

[197-F1]

Don't assume anything! Make sure he's fitting some. My sound deadening pack was not cheap, and the installer won't throw in extras as it will cut into his profit.

I would also consider amping the comps too if your after good sq. Running from the headunit, the speakers will not be running at their full potential.

Another option would be to loose the rears, and amp the fronts instead. This would give you a dramatic improvement, as headunit amps cannot compare to a decent dedicated amp.

 

[Rishi]

If you just have front & rear 13cm comps & coax's i think a 4x50w amp is enough no?

I used to setup PA equipment and 50w is a fair amount for such a small speaker in such a small space...

 

[BenW]

Are you bridging 2 channels to run the sub and running the components from the other 2 channels? You should be fine doing this and if you're not I would suggest changing as this will be the best use of your 4 channels

 

[tiababy]

going for a dedicated amp for the sub as I had a 4 channel in the old car and it never seemed as good as running dedicated (amp was ancient though)

at the moment just looking at an upgrade to the current sound as next year the interior is being overhauled and will be easier to fit another amp then to run speakers.

will find out about extra sound deadening though as j completly forgot about that amd I dont want it to end up like my brothers toledo boot :lol:

 

[BenW]

I'm a bit confused, the amp you linked to is a 4 channel? If you want a dedicated amp for the sub why not get a 1 channel?

 

[tiababy]

is it? I've not looked at the amp tbf Matt was haggling with him on that. I assumed he had gobe dedicated. will look now....

 

[tiababy]

hmm so it's is. might as well see if he can run that off the amp then might add cistern but if it's there use it

also Matt u got a good price on the amp

 

[BenW]

Depending on the sub you've gone for the amp might give enough power from bridging 2 of the channels, if it does then that's the way to go.

 

[tiababy]

the clarion one on it supplies enough to power the sub adaquetly but with the speakers wired it did sound dull. I'll suggest it to the guy and see how to progress with it on Tuesday as looking at the spec for the amp might be better off leaving it powering the sub alone

if I remember rightly my sub needs 400RMS (4 ohm) but the current amp is running lower rms on higher ohm so the newer amp should work well too. might have to look and get one that more closely reflects it's needed input though, can always change it if it's not just right

 

[dancemb]

How much does sound deadening cost? And how much sound deadening would I be needing?

 

[tiababy]

ask mark he had to do it to his car after almost losing his bootlid.
I'm sure he could guestimate it or ring David up he will know for sure.

 

[197-F1]

It cost me £80 for my silentcoat bulk pack. But you can squeeze virtually 2 cars out of the pack. Excellent stuff that's really easy to fit onto panels. I covered outer door and inner door skin, and the boot area in my last build. Going to do the doors the same in my Clio as I've gone for good components that will need it!, but I'm going to go easier in the boot area, as I dont want to add too much weight, and I will be running a DLS 10" SQ sub.

 

[dancemb]

I have asked for the sound deadening now.

He said that they put sound deadening around the speakers anyway, but I have asked for extra to sound deaden the whole car, especially as there will now be a sub in the boot.

He only charged me £35 fitted, so very cheap considering what I was expecting to have to pay :clap:

 

[BenW]

He may just put small amounts on each panel, adding more sound deadening is one of those diminishing returns things however it is nice to have one coat over most of the inner door skins.

The amp you've listed really isn't right for running a sub, without a doubt change it.

 

[dancemb]

After the money im shelling out for this new sound system, I wont have the funds available for changing it for something else.

I assumed he was selling me this Amp based on it having to power the sub, as I am not sure what works best with what when it comes to this.

Are you saying it will not power the sub to the standard it needs?

 

[BenW]

It's a 4 channel amp, designed to run either 4 sets of speakers, 2 sets of speakers and a sub or a pair of subs.

Using this amp to run one sub means you're only using 2 of the 4 channels and therefore only using half the amp which is a waste and you may as well get a cheaper amp.

The amp puts out 250W at 4Ohm which would be ok for driving your sub but not ideal. If you specifically wanted JL Audio then the JL-G1700 would be more suited, giving 350W at 4Ohm which is obviously a step up for similar money.

I'm asuming the sub you're supplying isn't an all in one box with integrated amp?