Custom Intake

cheers ben,personally i do think CAI makes a difference,on the rollers it was very difficult to measure the difference with and without the CAF but my mapper said it might give u a bit more when driving on the open road,I'm happy with the way it pulls and the noise it makes is awesome
 
OK, here we go.
First wanted to put this in the project thread but since you're asking...

Took my 200 to a local tuner who is very well known and respected for his work on WRX'es and Evo's. If 600+ HP is required, he will build you an engine from scratch - if you have the cash off course.
Anyways, this was the first time he did a Clio RS. Before I went to him, I had a neighbor mechanic change the standard clutch by a Helix reinforced system. To cut a long story short, he did a lousy job. So my tuner had to do some serious overtime to straighten this out first. Second up: dyno on the std Clio (only clutch changed + ITG panel filter). The result:

Origineel.gif

As you can see these values are not so good. 166 wheel-HP and 183 Nm of wheel-torque. The output on the crank is calculated to be 182 HP and 201 Nm of torque. After some logging it was discovered that the air inlet temperature was 66 °C which is too hot.

My tuner proceeded with a custom build air intake. Also, he drilled through/opened up the pre-cat (on the outside nothing can be seen) and replaced the std cat by a 100 cell race cat. After that a custom remap was done. The following images will provide more clarity than words.

Under the hood:
DSCI0241.gif

Further down:
Airintakesystem.gif

DSCI0239.gif

Does it work, well yes, it does.
This was the result:
Natuning.gif

The following is an overlay before-after:
Vergelijking.gif

Car pulls hard and from 4000 RPM onwards the party starts. Very satisfied I was.

Wait a minute, what do you say? Was??

Had the car a few days when suddenly got a fault message saying: check injection. A few moments later this message changed into: check ESP and the ESP light flashed on, together with service light. The car started to jump around like a rabbit, just as if one was driving on ice and no traction was available. It seemed the ESP was overreacting to some faulty signal. Moreover, a strange ticking/rattling noise could be noticed from under the bonnet starting at 3000 RPM. I wasn't so far away from my tuner so I slowly drove it over to his garage. First he thought it was a con rod problem since these engines are known to have this weak spot. So I needed to leave my 200 at his place and got a rather tired VW Golf Diesel to drive home... :'(

The day after got a phone call. The oil was drained, oil pan removed but there was nothing irregular that could be seen near the crankshaft/con rods. Better safe than sorry I decided to have the con rod bolts removed and replaced by uprated ARP parts. Engine was filled with oil again, fault was deleted in ECU and started. Nothing irregular could be noticed. My tuner went for a drive, first very carefully, than full power on, still everything was OK.

So far so good as I had already been thinking there was something wrong in or around the cylinder head (valves, valve springs, dephaser pulley, ...)

Almost a week passed without any irregularities when yesterday the two fault messages appeared again and ESP seemed to go bizerk. This time however, the ticking/rattling noise was not present as it was the first time. I immediately stopped and turned the ignition off. After a few moments I decided to fire up the engine again and off I went again, no fault messages and car drove fine.
Went to my local dealer today for a ECU readout. They get two messages: one is the presence of the race-cat which gives an emission fault but no emission warning light pops up. Second is an "internal ECU fault" which they can not trace further. According to the Renault dealer, the emission fault should not trigger another but the "internal ECU fault" -whatever it is- most likely will (through the multiplex system)...

Most probably this fault is caused by a parameter in the remap that's out of place. My tuner promised to have another look at it but most likely he will have to tune down so I will loose some horses... So he informed me...

If anyone has any bright ideas to the whereabouts of this fault message, shoot!

Fingers crossed in the meanwhile...

Wim from Belgium

So these gains have nothing at all to do with the drilled pre cat etc ... I don't think the gains from the air intake will be that big tbh
 
the last pic just shows ho much water this thing is going to suck up in wet weather
 
get it sorted man!the grunt is nice.I got me red top from Rally Design with a RMD 90 elbow 70mm all in delivered to the door next day for £125.

I'm torn beetwen this and an R3 airbox, was gonna order the R3 box after crimbo and get it moulded to make some fibreglass ones, a cheaper alternative to the carbon ones that were available. Would still need the Red Top either way.
 
when the filter gets wet it will suck moisture regardless .

and then all the road crap ie salt etcthis time of the year will saturate it rendering it useless and probally worse than standard
 
when the filter gets wet it will suck moisture regardless .

and then all the road crap ie salt etcthis time of the year will saturate it rendering it useless and probally worse than standard
yep and might suck a few trout up to if he dose go through a ford to ha!
 
water coming through the CAF is a bit of an issue,cars are design to be able the run with some moisture going through the filter but i have thought about making some sort of carbon fibre blanking plate for the front grill if its ever raining
 
i dont agree on the late as no one is going to pull over and fit mid rain storm are they . . .
 
K&N sell covers that go round cone filters to keep them dry in such applications where it could be exposed to rain water/road ****, whilst still allowing decent airflow. Called Dry socks or dry filters or something.

Alot of jap boys use them for their bumper mounted filters, worth a shout.
 
K&N sell covers that go round cone filters to keep them dry in such applications where it could be exposed to rain water/road ****, whilst still allowing decent airflow. Called Dry socks or dry filters or something.

Alot of jap boys use them for their bumper mounted filters, worth a shout.
yep that could be a good option.