Custom Intake
- Thread starter LazaRs
- Start date
Fernandez
Gold Member
A BIG hole in the bonnet lol and a huge filter. To be fair, mine was a one off set up, I havenet seen any other WTCC cable operated throttlebodies on a Clio
Attachments
OK, here we go.
First wanted to put this in the project thread but since you're asking...
Took my 200 to a local tuner who is very well known and respected for his work on WRX'es and Evo's. If 600+ HP is required, he will build you an engine from scratch - if you have the cash off course.
Anyways, this was the first time he did a Clio RS. Before I went to him, I had a neighbor mechanic change the standard clutch by a Helix reinforced system. To cut a long story short, he did a lousy job. So my tuner had to do some serious overtime to straighten this out first. Second up: dyno on the std Clio (only clutch changed + ITG panel filter). The result:
As you can see these values are not so good. 166 wheel-HP and 183 Nm of wheel-torque. The output on the crank is calculated to be 182 HP and 201 Nm of torque. After some logging it was discovered that the air inlet temperature was 66 °C which is too hot.
My tuner proceeded with a custom build air intake. Also, he drilled through/opened up the pre-cat (on the outside nothing can be seen) and replaced the std cat by a 100 cell race cat. After that a custom remap was done. The following images will provide more clarity than words.
Under the hood:
Further down:
Does it work, well yes, it does.
This was the result:
The following is an overlay before-after:
Car pulls hard and from 4000 RPM onwards the party starts. Very satisfied I was.
Wait a minute, what do you say? Was??
Had the car a few days when suddenly got a fault message saying: check injection. A few moments later this message changed into: check ESP and the ESP light flashed on, together with service light. The car started to jump around like a rabbit, just as if one was driving on ice and no traction was available. It seemed the ESP was overreacting to some faulty signal. Moreover, a strange ticking/rattling noise could be noticed from under the bonnet starting at 3000 RPM. I wasn't so far away from my tuner so I slowly drove it over to his garage. First he thought it was a con rod problem since these engines are known to have this weak spot. So I needed to leave my 200 at his place and got a rather tired VW Golf Diesel to drive home... :'(
The day after got a phone call. The oil was drained, oil pan removed but there was nothing irregular that could be seen near the crankshaft/con rods. Better safe than sorry I decided to have the con rod bolts removed and replaced by uprated ARP parts. Engine was filled with oil again, fault was deleted in ECU and started. Nothing irregular could be noticed. My tuner went for a drive, first very carefully, than full power on, still everything was OK.
So far so good as I had already been thinking there was something wrong in or around the cylinder head (valves, valve springs, dephaser pulley, ...)
Almost a week passed without any irregularities when yesterday the two fault messages appeared again and ESP seemed to go bizerk. This time however, the ticking/rattling noise was not present as it was the first time. I immediately stopped and turned the ignition off. After a few moments I decided to fire up the engine again and off I went again, no fault messages and car drove fine.
Went to my local dealer today for a ECU readout. They get two messages: one is the presence of the race-cat which gives an emission fault but no emission warning light pops up. Second is an "internal ECU fault" which they can not trace further. According to the Renault dealer, the emission fault should not trigger another but the "internal ECU fault" -whatever it is- most likely will (through the multiplex system)...
Most probably this fault is caused by a parameter in the remap that's out of place. My tuner promised to have another look at it but most likely he will have to tune down so I will loose some horses... So he informed me...
If anyone has any bright ideas to the whereabouts of this fault message, shoot!
Fingers crossed in the meanwhile...
Wim from Belgium
First wanted to put this in the project thread but since you're asking...
Took my 200 to a local tuner who is very well known and respected for his work on WRX'es and Evo's. If 600+ HP is required, he will build you an engine from scratch - if you have the cash off course.
Anyways, this was the first time he did a Clio RS. Before I went to him, I had a neighbor mechanic change the standard clutch by a Helix reinforced system. To cut a long story short, he did a lousy job. So my tuner had to do some serious overtime to straighten this out first. Second up: dyno on the std Clio (only clutch changed + ITG panel filter). The result:
As you can see these values are not so good. 166 wheel-HP and 183 Nm of wheel-torque. The output on the crank is calculated to be 182 HP and 201 Nm of torque. After some logging it was discovered that the air inlet temperature was 66 °C which is too hot.
My tuner proceeded with a custom build air intake. Also, he drilled through/opened up the pre-cat (on the outside nothing can be seen) and replaced the std cat by a 100 cell race cat. After that a custom remap was done. The following images will provide more clarity than words.
Under the hood:
Further down:
Does it work, well yes, it does.
This was the result:
The following is an overlay before-after:
Car pulls hard and from 4000 RPM onwards the party starts. Very satisfied I was.
Wait a minute, what do you say? Was??
Had the car a few days when suddenly got a fault message saying: check injection. A few moments later this message changed into: check ESP and the ESP light flashed on, together with service light. The car started to jump around like a rabbit, just as if one was driving on ice and no traction was available. It seemed the ESP was overreacting to some faulty signal. Moreover, a strange ticking/rattling noise could be noticed from under the bonnet starting at 3000 RPM. I wasn't so far away from my tuner so I slowly drove it over to his garage. First he thought it was a con rod problem since these engines are known to have this weak spot. So I needed to leave my 200 at his place and got a rather tired VW Golf Diesel to drive home... :'(
The day after got a phone call. The oil was drained, oil pan removed but there was nothing irregular that could be seen near the crankshaft/con rods. Better safe than sorry I decided to have the con rod bolts removed and replaced by uprated ARP parts. Engine was filled with oil again, fault was deleted in ECU and started. Nothing irregular could be noticed. My tuner went for a drive, first very carefully, than full power on, still everything was OK.
So far so good as I had already been thinking there was something wrong in or around the cylinder head (valves, valve springs, dephaser pulley, ...)
Almost a week passed without any irregularities when yesterday the two fault messages appeared again and ESP seemed to go bizerk. This time however, the ticking/rattling noise was not present as it was the first time. I immediately stopped and turned the ignition off. After a few moments I decided to fire up the engine again and off I went again, no fault messages and car drove fine.
Went to my local dealer today for a ECU readout. They get two messages: one is the presence of the race-cat which gives an emission fault but no emission warning light pops up. Second is an "internal ECU fault" which they can not trace further. According to the Renault dealer, the emission fault should not trigger another but the "internal ECU fault" -whatever it is- most likely will (through the multiplex system)...
Most probably this fault is caused by a parameter in the remap that's out of place. My tuner promised to have another look at it but most likely he will have to tune down so I will loose some horses... So he informed me...
If anyone has any bright ideas to the whereabouts of this fault message, shoot!
Fingers crossed in the meanwhile...
Wim from Belgium
Last edited:
Hi Mike,
I suppose the problem got solved as you used the word "done". Do you know what the issue was exactely? Aren't you supercharged? Doesn't that mean you have a standalone ECU?
The two fault messages I'm getting are DF394 : catalytic converter; which further down the path can be traced to emission standards that are not being met - as we knew from the start since the 100 cell is in place now.
But no harm is done by this and no emission light pops upon the dash.
The other is DF038 : ECU which further down the system is denoted as "internal ECU fault".
BTW: the accompanying collected info to this fault states that the speed of all 4 wheels was zero. Very strange 'cause I was driving when the faults came on...
Attachments
Seriously interested in this one!
So the air never gets hot? Is a remap needed?
Chemist, check your personal mail
So the air never gets hot? Is a remap needed?
Chemist, check your personal mail
Last edited:
As it should be!
Unless you're driving along in the Kalahari desert... No seriously, it will get a bit warm in the end if you're driving like a madman for an hour or so but compared to the OEM setup, it's worth it.
Well, i'm not sure, I did anyway.
Check yours!Chemist, check your personal mail
I will have it remapped after I will replace the cats. The intake temps are much lower than before, and another great thing is the flat spot is almost inexistent
, I havenet seen any other WTCC cable operated throttlebodies on a Clio
you mean on a mk3 surely? Been done a dozen times or so on mk2's
my setup
001 by scott1586, on Flickr
CAF
002 by scott1586, on Flickr
i have also had a few lights on,first up the ESP light came on,after pressing the buttons on the end of the stalk it went off,then a couple of days later the service due light came on 6000 miles early,(could just be coincidence as i've heard of this happen before with renaults),car still ran normally and pulled well but i decided to take it to my mapper for a check up,after plugging the car in we also found a cat fault,this could have been caused as i'm running a decat though,after a full check he could find no real issues and the car still runs spot on,i'm having cams,matched inlets and TB fitted in january so a full remap will be required,fingers crossed there'll be no fault messages
forgot to mention,while at the mappers we did some power runs,first up we used the original maxogen silicone hose then secondly the samco hose which is half the length with only one bend,the car made nearly exactly the same top end figures but between 2500rpm and about 3500rpm it had almost 30n*m more torque with the samco hose so happy with that,in my happiness i drove off with out a print out but i'll defo get one in jan when the cams are fitted and post it
001 by scott1586, on Flickr
CAF
002 by scott1586, on Flickr
i have also had a few lights on,first up the ESP light came on,after pressing the buttons on the end of the stalk it went off,then a couple of days later the service due light came on 6000 miles early,(could just be coincidence as i've heard of this happen before with renaults),car still ran normally and pulled well but i decided to take it to my mapper for a check up,after plugging the car in we also found a cat fault,this could have been caused as i'm running a decat though,after a full check he could find no real issues and the car still runs spot on,i'm having cams,matched inlets and TB fitted in january so a full remap will be required,fingers crossed there'll be no fault messages
forgot to mention,while at the mappers we did some power runs,first up we used the original maxogen silicone hose then secondly the samco hose which is half the length with only one bend,the car made nearly exactly the same top end figures but between 2500rpm and about 3500rpm it had almost 30n*m more torque with the samco hose so happy with that,in my happiness i drove off with out a print out but i'll defo get one in jan when the cams are fitted and post it
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