Renault Sport Clio 197 Racing Red

[Raptor6767]

Finally, managed to fit the Powerflex today.

Haven't installed lower engine mount on purpose - waiting for a custom made dog bone.













There's a big difference in engine movement, or should I say - in the LACK of movement.

However, if you don't like vibrations, and you're using this as a daily driver car - it takes some getting used to it. It's a trade-off between comfort on idle, and engine movement (I found the lack of engine movement impacting my DRIVE comfort for the better - no more engine/chassis movement on sudden throttle on/off).

A very good mod if you ask me although I need to test it out in drag racing (changing from 1st to 2nd gear should be easier now) and on track.

 

[Giles]

Unfortunately I don't. I have never removed the rear disc. These are still my first OEM discs in 90kkm.

I mean any chance take a pics of behind the rear disc brake, not taking a parts lol

 

[Raptor6767]

Damn it...if you only told me that today in the morning.

 

[Raptor6767]

Was thinking what to do with the abnormal and, IMHO, unreal/too big intake temperature that our IAT sensor reads - decided to relocate the IAT sensor to my Clio V6 Ph2 airbox. The IAT sensor is intentionally in this place because of my other idea that will require 180° rotation of the airbox on the x-axis.

Used BMW IAT (part no #13622243946) for it's longer sensor and alleged faster response.



Used my variant of an "extension cord" with the proper adapters at each end so I could change/return to OEM setup if this one didn't work.



Used the tip of this OEM sensor and used as an adapter, and the bottom side to clog the hole.






There's a big difference on idle. I left the car for 5min @ 30°C ambient temp (at least that's what my clock showed ) and usually at that temperature Torque app would read 75-80°C intake temperature. Now it read 45°C max, and I don't need to tell you how fast did the temperature drop when I started driving...i took 2-3min of full throttle for the IAT to read 20°C. Given in mind that usually it took 10min to lower the temp from 70°C to 45-55°C with the stock IAT - I'm thinking that now it has more precise data of the REAL air temperature.

The old IAT sensor would heat excessively due to the massive head build up on the intake manifold and the heat transfer to the sensor.



Temp while driving through the city:



Really pleased with the results for now. Didn't have time to try and see how did and if it did at all affect the performance given in mind that ECU now thinks (in my opinion - this is a better "guess" than with the stock sensor) the air coming into the engine is colder and adjusts AFR and ignition.

 

[simoxmino]

a good thing rene!!

 

[Raptor6767]

Was keeping an eye on the temperature.

Taken today at 30°C


Idle for 5min.



It takes 2min of normal driving to reduce intake temp (or how I see it - takes 2min for the sensor to realize it's getting cooler air in the airbox).



Intake temp in the morning. First drive of the day. Environment temperature 24°C.




I believe that the REAL/TRUE IAT might be a bit higher, however, I'm sure that this is much closer to the real intake air temperature than the readings on the intake manifold that you literally can't put your hand on for 3s. There is a heat transfer on the IAT sensor for sure and I believe it's huge compared to the place I put this BMW IAT sensor.

IMO.

Just to compare - look at the IAT with the stock sensor in place, and take in account my speed. The ambient temperature is 30-32°C (took this while driving back to the garage before changing the sensors).



In the same conditions now my IAT is at 10-11°C.

 

[Raptor6767]

Wanted to make/fit the aluminium crank pulley for a long time now so I had to borrow a new crank pulley for the sample.





All done, now to see the difference in weight:




OEM pulley taken from the car.




Aluminium one is approximately 67% (1.579g) lighter than the OEM.


Applying alu spray:







I'm very pleased with the effect - car has much better throttle response/better revving too, feels like it has more power - especially when AC on, and on the road I got ~1 car length compared to my friend before/after the pulley.

Only negative effect is the increased vibration when AC is on.

Haven't felt that much of a difference when I had the flywheel lighted (~5kg now, was ~6kg).

 

[Raptor6767]

Dyno testing the IAT sensor. Ambient temperature in the garage - 29°C.





Last time, my power was 200,9bhp. As you can see the difference on the dyno, I can feel it on the street and see it compared to the cars I raced against before and after.





PLEASE NOTE - the last two dyno charts are UNCORRECTED POWER.

Before and after the IAT senzor realocation and the alu pulley the difference is 4-5 car lengths.

Parallel with the dyno testing, I had a WB probe so I could see the AFR:

[video=youtube_share;_8GYOJz69uQ]http://youtu.be/_8GYOJz69uQ[/video]

Not ideal, seems too rich, will have the car remapped by the end of the year - depending on the mods in between. However, it's safe to drive it like that. I wanted to see the AFR and make sure the car is safe to drive because of the sensor reallocation and the different data that it's receiving now

And you can see and compare the temperatures. Car was off for 30min, and ambient temperature is 22°C.

 

[Raptor6767]

On Saturday (11AM) I started to wrap the intake manifold with the DEI tape.





Throttle body was in need of cleaning:





Like brand new:








Intake manifold was in need of cleaning too (was only ~37kkm on the car):










After the removal of the lower inlet manifold (a pain in the ass if doing it for the first time) I've started to tailor and wrap the DEI tape. If I knew it would take so much work and time I don't think I would have started it in the first place.

Because of our configuration of the inlet manifold and it's ragged surface, I would recommend sanding and ceramic coating over this that I did. I believe it would be a much easier job.
IMHO, the biggest fail was my shortage of the tape, and the fact it couldn't stick to the lower inlet manifold. That's why I would recommend fine sanding before the procedure to smooth out the surface. I didn't have the time and most important - didn't want to remove the injectors (and of course, didn't have enough of tape).

Sunday morning (8AM):





Lower manifold remained as it was (and it was a HUGE pain in the ass to remove) unfortunately:





I had some tape left so I've decided to wrap the airbox hose, at least the engine side.










DIFFERENCE?




IMHO - you can feel the inlet manifold not heating as much as before - HOWEVER - considering the time/money (the tape is not cheap) and the effort put into it - not worth it. If you want to do it - go with ceramic coating of some sort and do both inlets.




CONCLUSION


I've spent the whole Saturday and the Sunday morning doing this (good thing I consider messing around the car as a relaxation) and for a minimal effect. However, I did clean the TB and the inlet.


Next thing - PTFE gasket between the engine head and the inlet so the heat transfer won't be that high, and heat wrapping the exhaust manifold because I can feel the heat coming from the back of the engine when lifting the bonnet. Will do all of that at the same time if I decide to get some head work (again ).

 

[Foxspeed]

very good write up there :thumbup1:

 

[Giles]

Wow like the gold wrap!

 

[Raptor6767]

Took this one yesterday, looked nice because of the background.




And I forgot to post - after 6 years and 91kkm my Tudor OEM battery died 2 weeks ago. Replaced by Banner UniBull 69Ah.





Yes, I know - it looks awful like that with the straps but I just forget about the battery the moment I close the trunk.

 

[FaithlessEmo]

Are you going to sell the pully? Did you balance it?

 

[Raptor6767]

Are you going to sell the pully? Did you balance it?

Pulley is balanced, of course.

Why would I sell the pulley? It's on the car and it's great.

 

[Raptor6767]

I will be selling the Sprint Booster because of the pulley. Same effect. Can't drive the car on green anymore. Too good throttle response (I thought I'd never say that ).

 

[FaithlessEmo]

Pulley is balanced, of course.

Why would I sell the pulley? It's on the car and it's great.

Will you be making more and selling them? Lol.

 

[Raptor6767]

I could. They would cost £100 + shipping.

 

[Raptor6767]

Had some runs with the 182's...

[video=youtube_share;n8_YTVroG30]http://youtu.be/n8_YTVroG30[/video]

[video=youtube_share;08T1hPPlaEw]http://youtu.be/08T1hPPlaEw[/video]

 

[Raptor6767]

Finally, after a long time of thinking about it - I have gone into a realization of a Clio R3maxi/V6 Ph2 hybrid airbox.

First - I needed to borrow a front part of a Clio R3 maxi airbox. Thanks to my friend who drives a Rallye Clio I've managed that:





Then the front bumper needed to be removed.








a) all of the plastic surrounding the place where the battery was (now V6 airbox) needed to be removed
b) the plastic needed to be pierced so the R3 front part of the airbox could pass through

















c) all of the fuse boxes needed to be relocated and adequately fastened
d) expansion bottle needed reallocation too and the hoses/holder for it

My electrician did it all at once - he's superb!











e) Modifying reduction from the R3 airbox to the V6 Ph2 airbox - my friend did all the work.











FINAL RESULT - full carbon (not just carbon wrap):





f) Installation - after 10 days wait for the silicon hose to arrive from the UK, finally I could install it all!











BEFORE - airbox gets it's air from the heated engine space





AFTER - direct air intake in the V6 Ph2 airbox.





Results to follow. I believe that it can't be worse than it was, especially when the ambient temperatures are high, and when slow driving with a lot of stop & go.

 

[treid]

Really nice work there, great.