Before i start this thread, i think this would be worth while getting it pinned by one the moderators as people may find it quite useful?
After few weeks of ownership and using the car, i noticed that the when changing gear high up rev range and trying too to do quick gear change the box felt notchy. This wasn't a common theme, was summit that happened now and then. I know i will not be only one with this sort issue.
with a track day due, i changed the gear box oil for reno stuff which improved the gearbox, felt smoother. At time of doing this i had put
AP racing fluid in as we bled the brakes.
So i went to cadwell park and during the day the notchy box became more and more common but when going into gear it did so without crunching or grinding!!
After the drive home and using car next day, still knew summit wasn't right. So i ordered some fuchs synthetic transmission thinking that reno stuff maybe wasnt good enough for the job or i had been sold the wrong grade of oil. We changed to the fuchs and made no difference, the issue with notchy box was still there but again the box was not crunching or grinding.
another day or so of use i had convinced myself that even though i was fully depressing the clutch it didnt actually feel like was fully depressing... which left two options. duff clutch or slave cylinder issue.
With this i started asking few questions too people in the know with these. 1st question everyone asked was if changed gearbox oil which i had. After explaining my thoughts on the clutch, the general advice was bleed the slave cylinder as chances are it's never been changed since day one and also it may have boiled it due to never been able to be cooled.
So this afternoon car was up on the ramps, again! lol and with help of my dad, we bleed the slave cylinder. All that come out was extremely brown / crappy fluid with tiny air bubbles in it. We bleed it twice too make sure everything was out and plenty fresh stuff in the system. Again used 5.1 fluid.
Jumped in the car and soon as put foot on clutch pedal there was a noticeable difference. The clutch pedal felt positive and could feel pressure against pedal where as before felt sloppy/ flat. Selecting gears was alot easier and glided in with ease when stood still.
Been for a good drive in the car and gear changes are perfect now , how you'd expect it too be. Smooth and quick!! no notchy gear changes!!!
Problem solved - fingers crossed!!
Im one these people that believe if theres a issue i have to get it sorted or get too bottom off it. It bugs me!! I can not leave it lol
My advice people is , make sure get your slave cylinder bled. Dont matter if been on track, just 20k plus mileage of clutch changing abuse will take its tole.
I believe people may think they actually have a gear box issue and it may not be the case Or they have just accepted how the gear changes are / clutch feel is , believe its just down to age / mileage when in reality it doesnt have too be the case, which maybe can be easily sorted and bring back a newer feel to clutch and gear changes.
.....More worrying is people may have forked out for new boxes or box refurbs with new clutchs / slave cylinders and it maybe hasnt been needed....
I'm not saying this will work for everyone, but its a inexpensive job and can easily be done. Got too be worth doing IMO as sure you'll see a noticeable improvement.
Took some pictures of what need to be looking for below and bit of a how to...
how do bit..
The black moulding with metal pipe running too it has a bleed nipple and button at the top of it. have feel for it.
You need to push the metal pipe with grey clip on end out of the bracket from the box.
Pressure up brake fluid system ( 10 psi ) with easy bleed brake kit.
Push the button in and then pull the plastic moulding outwards ONE click.
This will allow fluid to flow out.
When happy getting clean fluid through, push mouding back inwards ONE click and let the button set.
Push the grey clip on metal pipe back into bracket and go check got pressure when depressing the clutch.
Pump it few times and check for any leaks to make sure all gone back with no issues.
Job done
Pic...
This can be done on drive if you have correct tools and gear (ramps) to have car raised safely or a local garage should be able to this no problem and wont charge you much as not a massive job.
Sorry for waffling on lol but hope this will be a use too some people and will improve any issues people are having.
Would also like to add a massive thanks to Mike Noble for his advice and info on this, he been really helpful on this! so cheers matey!
After few weeks of ownership and using the car, i noticed that the when changing gear high up rev range and trying too to do quick gear change the box felt notchy. This wasn't a common theme, was summit that happened now and then. I know i will not be only one with this sort issue.
with a track day due, i changed the gear box oil for reno stuff which improved the gearbox, felt smoother. At time of doing this i had put
AP racing fluid in as we bled the brakes.
So i went to cadwell park and during the day the notchy box became more and more common but when going into gear it did so without crunching or grinding!!
After the drive home and using car next day, still knew summit wasn't right. So i ordered some fuchs synthetic transmission thinking that reno stuff maybe wasnt good enough for the job or i had been sold the wrong grade of oil. We changed to the fuchs and made no difference, the issue with notchy box was still there but again the box was not crunching or grinding.
another day or so of use i had convinced myself that even though i was fully depressing the clutch it didnt actually feel like was fully depressing... which left two options. duff clutch or slave cylinder issue.
With this i started asking few questions too people in the know with these. 1st question everyone asked was if changed gearbox oil which i had. After explaining my thoughts on the clutch, the general advice was bleed the slave cylinder as chances are it's never been changed since day one and also it may have boiled it due to never been able to be cooled.
So this afternoon car was up on the ramps, again! lol and with help of my dad, we bleed the slave cylinder. All that come out was extremely brown / crappy fluid with tiny air bubbles in it. We bleed it twice too make sure everything was out and plenty fresh stuff in the system. Again used 5.1 fluid.
Jumped in the car and soon as put foot on clutch pedal there was a noticeable difference. The clutch pedal felt positive and could feel pressure against pedal where as before felt sloppy/ flat. Selecting gears was alot easier and glided in with ease when stood still.
Been for a good drive in the car and gear changes are perfect now , how you'd expect it too be. Smooth and quick!! no notchy gear changes!!!
Problem solved - fingers crossed!!
Im one these people that believe if theres a issue i have to get it sorted or get too bottom off it. It bugs me!! I can not leave it lol
My advice people is , make sure get your slave cylinder bled. Dont matter if been on track, just 20k plus mileage of clutch changing abuse will take its tole.
I believe people may think they actually have a gear box issue and it may not be the case Or they have just accepted how the gear changes are / clutch feel is , believe its just down to age / mileage when in reality it doesnt have too be the case, which maybe can be easily sorted and bring back a newer feel to clutch and gear changes.
.....More worrying is people may have forked out for new boxes or box refurbs with new clutchs / slave cylinders and it maybe hasnt been needed....
I'm not saying this will work for everyone, but its a inexpensive job and can easily be done. Got too be worth doing IMO as sure you'll see a noticeable improvement.
Took some pictures of what need to be looking for below and bit of a how to...
how do bit..
The black moulding with metal pipe running too it has a bleed nipple and button at the top of it. have feel for it.
You need to push the metal pipe with grey clip on end out of the bracket from the box.
Pressure up brake fluid system ( 10 psi ) with easy bleed brake kit.
Push the button in and then pull the plastic moulding outwards ONE click.
This will allow fluid to flow out.
When happy getting clean fluid through, push mouding back inwards ONE click and let the button set.
Push the grey clip on metal pipe back into bracket and go check got pressure when depressing the clutch.
Pump it few times and check for any leaks to make sure all gone back with no issues.
Job done
Pic...
This can be done on drive if you have correct tools and gear (ramps) to have car raised safely or a local garage should be able to this no problem and wont charge you much as not a massive job.
Sorry for waffling on lol but hope this will be a use too some people and will improve any issues people are having.
Would also like to add a massive thanks to Mike Noble for his advice and info on this, he been really helpful on this! so cheers matey!
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