Ktec mani !!!!
- Thread starter J_gadd4
- Start date
looks about the same to me, it is further away from the camera than the standard one
I suppose it depends on what you want, the full system on my vauxhall chevette cost me 1300 quid without a cat but being 1978 car that wasn't an issue though that was a serious track car.
A majority of the work is in the manifold, getting all the headers the same length within the confines of the engine bay plus poor quality stainless will corrode (slower but it will corrode) where as good stuff will last for years and is much less likely to crack.
A majority of the work is in the manifold, getting all the headers the same length within the confines of the engine bay plus poor quality stainless will corrode (slower but it will corrode) where as good stuff will last for years and is much less likely to crack.
Last edited:
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
I wish companies would give the option of selling the mani unwelded. Then you could do all the positioning yourself to avoid subframe knocking and various alignment tolerances. Then just tack it up and weld yourself. This would be perfect for me as I weld at work.
That would be very difficult also you would have to isolate the electrics as you would need it on the car in order to tack it in the correct place. It's not my profession but I would let someone who has experience do it. My opinion.
Im a coded welder so i know a lot about metal, the best way to stop these manifolds rubbing is the obvs grinding the sub frame away, then heating the manifold with some oxy/propane till it gets a nice red glow then bend it away from the subframe. I personally cut my manifold with a 9 inch grinder then closed the gap up and welded it up using 3 stringer beads (but obvs dont expect a non welder to do that) now mine Never hits the subframe even under hard accelaration and i dont have any mounts
nothing is ever less likely to crack , where i work we use high quality stainless steel on oven door frames and i am always coming across cracks and welding them back up , but the price is mainly down to labour in my opinion. i have spoke to a exhaust fabricator before and he said your looking at a grand for a manifold that will last long but it will still crack in the end,
this is what i like to hear someone who isnt scared of attacking the car with some proper tools !
I am just going on what I know and have been taught as a sheet metal worker for Siemens industrial turbomachinery Ltd. (Gas turbines)
Hmmm, not sure whether I would have gone with this or the Toyosports when mine fell apart. For a "proper" job (manifold, new torque link and stabiliser, labour and RS Tuning remap) it comes out at about £1k. This would be another £400 over that. Comparing the primaries on the K-Tec to the Toyosports, though, it's probably worth it: it's a lot closer to the Renault in terms of their length/routing.
TB Rich
Paid Member
It's never worth 3 times the Toyo, still really short primaries. I would have thought if they could have produced a decently built mani (even with OE length primaries etc) for £400 which didn't knock on the subframe like the Toyo - then it would have been no-brainer, but at £600 jog-on.
My R3 Maxi mani was fitted on Monday, but given the monumental effort and cost involved it's not really a viable option either!! Someone prepaired to strike a middle ground between stock and R3 could clean up I think.
