A while back I told about filling in the upper engine link using one component PU window glue. This fix not only removes any annoying clunking noises but also makes the link much firmer, so ideally the lower gear box link should also be done at the same time to even the flex and wear between the two. I did not want to write a how-to until I knew whether it would would hold up or not.I have been daily driving for many months and it still holds up excactly like the day it went back on the car, so here goes :biggrin:
NB! The PU takes at least a weekend to harden, preferably 5 days.
These are the tools needed. The rotary burr is used to clean up the parts before applying the PU glue.
Here's cleaning up the rubber and the aluminium.
All surfaces, nooks and crannies must be cleaned up and rughed up to ensure a good bond. I used brake cleaner to remove any traces of grease as well.
I used gladpack and some plastic to cover up the parts of the link I wanted to keep clean. It is possible to clean up the PU, but it is best to avoid making a mess in the first place.
Here's the finished front
And the finished rear
Make sure you torque mounting bolts to 105 Nm
NB! The PU takes at least a weekend to harden, preferably 5 days.
These are the tools needed. The rotary burr is used to clean up the parts before applying the PU glue.
Here's cleaning up the rubber and the aluminium.
All surfaces, nooks and crannies must be cleaned up and rughed up to ensure a good bond. I used brake cleaner to remove any traces of grease as well.
I used gladpack and some plastic to cover up the parts of the link I wanted to keep clean. It is possible to clean up the PU, but it is best to avoid making a mess in the first place.
Here's the finished front
And the finished rear
Make sure you torque mounting bolts to 105 Nm
