Cutting out at high revs.

[LiamP]

Have you tried running RZ005 reprogramming? It goes through a reset of high/low stops.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Is that a function on the Renault clip? I've tried with different diagnostics but none of them let me do a throttle body reset

 

[LiamP]

Is that a function on the Renault clip? I've tried with different diagnostics but none of them let me do a throttle body reset

Yeah, I have done it using one of the CLIP copies.

However I do remember reading about a way to trick the TB into a reset by holding the butterfly fully open when you turn the ignition on as it does some sort of reset (don't start) and then turn ignition off and on again with the butterfly closed (normal).

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Thank you Liam I will try this,is it possible that my old throttle body was in fact faulty and the "new" throttle body even though working fine is using the old parameters and appearing faulty as well,so parameters needs to be reset? who knows..

 

[VeiRoNv2]

So i actually bought a Clip diagnostic and the first thing I did was run RZ005 adaptations program but it made no difference,however now I can see a new fault code: DF066 Faulty communication with the electronic fuel injection control unit No injection multiplex signal.

As i seem to understand it it's somehow missing the power supply to the ecu from the uch or injectors?

Putting that code in Haynes it comes up with testing the injectors 1 to 4:

I was able to easily check the 4 injectors,voltages on Pin 1 and all the resistances on pin 2 which are 0,5 ohms which is correct.however if i click on engine control unit:

it also tells me to check the resistances (six of them) between the ECU and E6 power supply unit below (which is the UCH as I understand it in the engine bay passenger side) picture seems similar to the uch:

However now i'm a bit stuck as it tells me to check the following resistances from ECU connectors (which is all marked and easy to find) to the power supply unit (UCH) which i have no idea where to find as I cannot see any markings?

-pins ECU A D4 and D 5 - E6 power supply control unit
-pins ECU A M2 and D 1 - E6 power supply control unit
-pins ECU B A3 and D 12 - E6 power supply control unit
-pins ECU B A4 and D 6 - E6 power supply control unit
-pins ECU B D1 and E 7 - E6 power supply control unit
-pins ECU C D1 and A 5 - E6 power supply control unit

So i am really not sure how to find those pins on the right side on the UCH.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Unless its the body control module behind the glovebox? still cant see any letters just pin numbers.

 

[turkie172]

 

[turkie172]

UPC data

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Thanks turkie helpful as always,much appreciated.
I did notice my downstream oxygen sensor is completely flat lined,i replaced the sensor and still completely dead,I did check and it does get voltage to the plug so I assume its not infact getting a signal from the ecu?altough I didnt think this would have any effect on the enigine ruinning being the oxygen sensor past the catalyst.

This below is the connector that is refered to above I believe?

I noticed there was infact more than one previous repair done to the wiring the one below which was soldered and now I just used crimped terminals,but it didnt make any difference to the issue anyhow.

 

[turkie172]

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Thanks so much,I will go ahead and print these for future reference altough I can't see anything related to the injection that would affect the engine on the interior body module.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I can see on my UPC on the white CT connector there is been previous repairs on both track 4 and 11 wire grey and orange,ABS CAN high signal and Low signal,I will inspect these hopefully will find the problem there,thank you.

 

[turkie172]

I see the loom has been modified that connection just so happens to be can bus for engine, ABS and Dash

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Yes indeed,about 4 wires have had a repair on them, although they all feel solid and can't see any breaks.

 

[turkie172]

Can bus works on resistance between the two wires for communication I can't see why that has been done you said the second Lambda was dead on the car that needs fixed and will affect fueling and engine running. To join the wires I would use solder joints with heat the solder melts and the heat shrink seals the joint off.

With a small Butane soldering tool it will be easier to carry out the fix and less risk of melting something else

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Oh I didn't know the second oxygen sensor could affect fueling,I thought it was only there to monitor if the catalyst is working.
Yeah Im not sure why the wiring was repaired, previous owner told me they replaced the uch don't why,if I had to bet all they have done was repair these 4 wires and charge him for a new uch anyway, wouldn't surprise me.

 

[turkie172]

I picked up a car that would backfire/pop and refused to go above 4,500 RPM it turned out to be the spark plugs so don't ignore the obvious. I can see in the video that the engine management light comes on then ABS deactivates along with the immobilizer light if you have live data the car can tell you what's happening to me the cab bus network might have interference causing communication problems.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Spark plugs are actually two years old and maybe 5k miles old,inspected and they visually looked okay, I'll change them soon anyway.
There's actually no immobilizer light coming on,only the eml comes on together with the traction control light and it cuts the revs out.

I cannot use live data unfortunately as when it cuts out I loose connection and I need to pair the diagnostic up from the beginning.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I picked up a car that would backfire/pop and refused to go above 4,500 RPM it turned out to be the spark plugs so don't ignore the obvious. I can see in the video that the engine management light comes on then ABS deactivates along with the immobilizer light if you have live data the car can tell you what's happening to me the cab bus network might have interference causing communication problems.

Do you have the wiring diagram for the plug of the downstream oxygen sensor please?

This is what the plug looks like:

 

[LiamP]

I would try measuring the resistance between the canbus high/low (OBD port has a tail), should be 120ohm, give those repairs a wiggle and see if it changes.