Clio 197 Ultra Red 2007 from Finland. April, time to start driving.

Hard braking procedures did not help. It is okay to brake hard, but when i brake easy then it shakes. Maybe i replace disks in may or april before driving season. I have to refresh front calibers in wintertime.. There might be piston stuck problem.
 
What you think how red brembos look?
There is tempting offer for 2 brand new (not refurb) calibers..
In fact my current calibers are not the best..
Front discs + pads is already paid, now i am considering front calibers too..

:shuv:


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Yep, ai appreciate your opinion. Maybe i can try to repair/paint my current silver calibers in wintertime. I agree silver is better for red car.
 
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Anthracite, Dark Silver, Gunmetal ??

Although seems a shame to go anything other than standard on this car......
 
Anthracite, Dark Silver, Gunmetal ??

Although seems a shame to go anything other than standard on this car......

Agree - its quite nice to see standard Clio's in amidst all the madness that happens here - I agree keep them standard it looks good as is.
 
How about beading?

Sorry no clio197 content, but i want to share you how ceramic coating works with open hose.
I have to add, there is no any boosters or reload sprays used.

 
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Not so much new here, weather has been .. what it is here. It rains every day.
Clio is not in rain, it is in my heated garage.
I still have insurance running, and i have plans to replace front disks + pads when i have time to do it. I hope before tomorrow, weather should be good to do bed-in braking for discs&pads.

Some wintertime plans:
- Remove rear diffusor and i will wash it really carefully and apply Nanolex SI3D coating for it.
- Remove radiator support bar, sandblast & paint
- Full reburb for front calibers (sodablast, new gaskets, paint, stickers, lacquer..)
- Service due january 2018, Fresh oil Castrol magnatec, ELF or Shell Helix ultra 5w-40 & oil filter+ cabin interior filter + air filter.
- Overall cleaning and detailing..

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sounds like a plan to me..a proper maintenance is the key to a healthy motor...:thumb:

Yep.. good that you refreshed my memory, i have service due at January 2018. One year is my max interval for oil change.
So time for fresh castrol magnatec or Shell Helix + filter.
 
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Disc & pads replaced. Interesting to see how brake bed-in works tomorrow.

ATE discs & Brembo pads
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Cleaned hubs

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New discs waiting for use
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Are those disks entirely coated Antti ? (They look it).

I'm kinda wondering why you havn't painted the hubs. Even in summer....with all your washing....they are going to go rusty quick. Unless they are coated of course......

You got a break-in procedure you follow ? Good luck with that tomorrow :smile:
 
Are those disks entirely coated Antti ? (They look it).

I'm kinda wondering why you havn't painted the hubs. Even in summer....with all your washing....they are going to go rusty quick. Unless they are coated of course......

You got a break-in procedure you follow ? Good luck with that tomorrow :smile:

Yep, discs are coated completely.
I have not ever painted hubs, how it should be done?

This is break-in instruction i am planning to use:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...finitions-and-procedures/big-brake-kit-bed-in

Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads


For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
 
Brake project continues..

I once more removed calibers and discs.
Now i protected hubs with high tempeature copper spray.
Seems to be good product.

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I did brake break-in as instructed. 100kmh, 10x 80% power braking to 20kmh. Full cooling for brakes, and then repeated process. No any shaking. I think brakes can be sharper for feel, i know calibers need work.. But i think i solve it in winter..
Proper wash and i garaged Clio..

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When i washed car i applied re-load spray for wet surface, took mitt and spread it evenly.
Then rinse with hose.. and see results. Amazing! This was first reload for coating.


Drying is quite easy, or what you say?

 
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How about front brake calibers.. i have to service those. Why not to start in october?

What do you think about this order:

1. Soda or glass blast calibers. (Pistons and dustcovers attached in caliber, to avoid glass or soda go inside calibers..).
2. Removal of pistons and bleed nipples
3. Clean, inspecting pistons do i need new pistons or can i use old
4. Protection of bores where pistons move to avoid paint go there
5. Silver paint + brembo stickers + lacquer ( high temp silver + high temp lacquer)
6. Installation of pistons with new seal kit

Any better ideas?
 
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When i washed car i applied re-load spray for wet surface, took mitt and spread it evenly.
Then rinse with hose.. and see results. Amazing! This was first reload for coating.


Drying is quite easy, or what you say?



INCREDIBLE Antti !! That looks truly amazing. No wonder drying is so easy :smile:

Why bother waxing these days..... couldn't agree more.

Thanks for the PM by the way