cliovirgin
Gold Member
Clio 197 Track Build
- Thread starter british_tommy
- Start date
cliovirgin
Gold Member
Yep seen it m8, but kind of a van load ! Hang on to, don't bin, need a week, if no one else buys.
krash67
Gold Member
how many rattle cans did it take and how many top coat are you expecting to use? Hopefully starting my strip tomorrow.
I used 4.5 cans of 500ml, so 2.5L in total. Hopefully the same in topcoat, and then probably 2 layers of lacquer...
krash67
Gold Member
Yiannis197
Paid Member
That is a Renault diagnostics tool if I'm not mistaken, bit more advanced than a common obd2 scanner. But I might be talking non sense?
-Eddie-
Missing In Action
CLIP is the Renault diagnostic tool, plugs in via the ODB port but allows access to much more than just a normal ECU reader - Its used by Renault Technicians. I'm aiming to get rid of the airbag light without the need of resistors and stuff, ultimately if i can get rid of the airbag ECU altogether that would be ideal, but until I have a play and see what's possible I just don't know.
krash67
Gold Member
So I've started taking delivery of various bits and bobs - including the CLIP interface and software:
It took a bit of time to get my head around the software, but ultimately I managed to get to the stage where I turned off all airbags from the system, enabling me to disconnect the outgoing wiring loom from the airbag ECU and relocate it up to the passenger footwell. I wasn't able to completely remove the airbag ECU from the system, I guess this is just a step too far.
Note the missing Airbag ECU:
Happy Days
It took a bit of time to get my head around the software, but ultimately I managed to get to the stage where I turned off all airbags from the system, enabling me to disconnect the outgoing wiring loom from the airbag ECU and relocate it up to the passenger footwell. I wasn't able to completely remove the airbag ECU from the system, I guess this is just a step too far.
Note the missing Airbag ECU:
Happy Days
Also took delivery of some Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 Gearbox Oil courtsey of Opie Oils - now I have everything needed to fit the LSD gearbox.... Can't wait to try it out!
Sparco Subframes Mock up with side mounts to test fit and figure out eyebolt locations for the harnesses. I had to drill an additional hole in each side mount as the "universal" side mount holes didn't line up with the holes in the frames, but all done and all fitted nicely together.
james_h
Platinum Member
I love the thread so far - it's brought back many memories of prepping the 106 Rallyes - however, the electrics were no where near as complicated and problematic! - and that's the only things that worry me about doing this on my current 200 (or anything modern).
I have all the gear (OBDII/diagnostics laptop, programs etc) but it's such a big piece of work now with almost everything having a sensor it means having to either fool, remove or re-program lots more.
Good luck!
I have all the gear (OBDII/diagnostics laptop, programs etc) but it's such a big piece of work now with almost everything having a sensor it means having to either fool, remove or re-program lots more.
Good luck!
krash67
Gold Member
So I've started taking delivery of various bits and bobs - including the CLIP interface and software:
It took a bit of time to get my head around the software, but ultimately I managed to get to the stage where I turned off all airbags from the system, enabling me to disconnect the outgoing wiring loom from the airbag ECU and relocate it up to the passenger footwell. I wasn't able to completely remove the airbag ECU from the system, I guess this is just a step too far.
Note the missing Airbag ECU:
Happy Days
Any chance in helping us, trying to do the same thing. Could you do a write up on how you did the airbags.
Hi [MENTION=52417]krash67[/MENTION]
I used the Renault CLIP interface and associated software to remove the relevant airbags from the car, or tell it that they werent present so that it doesnt look for them. There doesnt appear to be a way to remove the airbag ECU from the system totally, however i did get to the stage where I was able to remove the connector loom going to the rear of the car, and then tuck the ECU up and out of the way behind the dash.
Happy to help you do this if you like, depending on where you are!
I used the Renault CLIP interface and associated software to remove the relevant airbags from the car, or tell it that they werent present so that it doesnt look for them. There doesnt appear to be a way to remove the airbag ECU from the system totally, however i did get to the stage where I was able to remove the connector loom going to the rear of the car, and then tuck the ECU up and out of the way behind the dash.
Happy to help you do this if you like, depending on where you are!
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A couple more updates from this weekend. I've now finished stripping the car, and painted the interior. For anyone looking to do this, it took a LOT of rattle cans lol. I think I bought around 15 in total, each 400ml - so that works out at around 6L of paint for 2 coats giving a fairly decent finish.
As a side note, I managed to relocate the alarm sounder into the rear quarter panel by extending some of the wiring and retaping the loom. Looks much neater (I'd rather keep the alarm than lose it), and gets it out of the way.
Built up the subframe mounts properly, ready for fitting to the car:
Next test fitted the seat into the car, only fitting the drivers seat for now until the cage is fitted as they will only have to come out again...
7/16" UNF eyebolts fitted to the exhaust tunnel for the 4 point harnesses, these were surprisingly easy to fit - remove the clips for the exhaust heat shield underneath the car exposes the inside of the tunnel, then an 12mm drill bit (working up from about 6mm initially) to go through the single skin. Spreader plates fitted underneath the car, and spring washers between the eyebolts and the car body as per the Schroth/MSA guide.
I'm planning to use the original seatbelt mounts on the outside edge of the car, but these are M10 and so I need a couple of M10 eyebolts which I will get ordered up this week. Photos of the exhaust tunnel eyebolts:
Some touch up required to the paint due to swarf... doh!
As a side note, I managed to relocate the alarm sounder into the rear quarter panel by extending some of the wiring and retaping the loom. Looks much neater (I'd rather keep the alarm than lose it), and gets it out of the way.
Built up the subframe mounts properly, ready for fitting to the car:
Next test fitted the seat into the car, only fitting the drivers seat for now until the cage is fitted as they will only have to come out again...
7/16" UNF eyebolts fitted to the exhaust tunnel for the 4 point harnesses, these were surprisingly easy to fit - remove the clips for the exhaust heat shield underneath the car exposes the inside of the tunnel, then an 12mm drill bit (working up from about 6mm initially) to go through the single skin. Spreader plates fitted underneath the car, and spring washers between the eyebolts and the car body as per the Schroth/MSA guide.
I'm planning to use the original seatbelt mounts on the outside edge of the car, but these are M10 and so I need a couple of M10 eyebolts which I will get ordered up this week. Photos of the exhaust tunnel eyebolts:
Some touch up required to the paint due to swarf... doh!
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Todays plan is to remove some of the dash, fit the steering wheel and some little tweaks and tidy ups to the interior.
Expecting the roll cage to get delivered this week as well as the coilovers, will then be able to get some proper work done on the car rather than tinkering with the interior!!!
Expecting the roll cage to get delivered this week as well as the coilovers, will then be able to get some proper work done on the car rather than tinkering with the interior!!!
So today kind of went according to plan - I managed to fit my RS steering wheel, after much messing about with the squib to make sure the indicators self-cancelled still. I need to get hold of a button for the horn (MOT requirement) and so this is now on order and should turn up this week.
Also managed to figure out how to lower the steering wheel column. There are 4 bolts (2 front and 2 hidden at the rear) of this metal bracket which need to be loosened and will allow the wheel to come further down and further forward than normal. They need to be spaced with m8 nuts, so this is another job for in the week. This should give a much more comfortable driving position for when strapped in and on track.
Also managed to figure out how to lower the steering wheel column. There are 4 bolts (2 front and 2 hidden at the rear) of this metal bracket which need to be loosened and will allow the wheel to come further down and further forward than normal. They need to be spaced with m8 nuts, so this is another job for in the week. This should give a much more comfortable driving position for when strapped in and on track.
