Calling all that's clued up on brake bias how the brake circuit runs

[Rocketron]

Ok, here's the issue,.

My near side front is braking more than normal, more brake dust, can feel it bite quicker than drivers side front, here's the thing, the off side rear isn't applying fully and I've got good reason to think the cause is the brake pipe leading to the caliper, it's twisted slightly (my own fault due to too much movement rewinding the piston when it was seized, all rebuilt now)

Both front calipers are working perfectly in the sense that the pistons all push freely, so does the nearside rear, the offside is a bit tighter but not when the bleeder is open.

Now what I'm trying to find out is.... Does the brake circuit run from opposites ie front left to rear right and so on?

Also if the flow was cut off to the rear right would it tend to make the front left bite quicker and a bit harder initially? It's not severe and there's still flow through the twisted pipe but it's clearly restricted.

Anyone in the know please chime in, all help would be appreciated

Just to note I'm replacing the pipe tomorrow anyway

 

[Foxspeed]

usually the brake that's working better is the one that isn't faulty - ie when you get brake pull etc

I cannot remember how the circuit is split....but if you clamped off a rear brake line it should be a problem until electronic force distribution takes over
I would say

best change the pipe and give it a good bleed and then see how it stops

 

[Rocketron]

usually the brake that's working better is the one that isn't faulty - ie when you get brake pull etc

I cannot remember how the circuit is split....but if you clamped off a rear brake line it should be a problem until electronic force distribution takes over
I would say

best change the pipe and give it a good bleed and then see how it stops

Well strangely enough when I switch off esp/traction control when I brake it doesn't waver/ pull then catchup as much

With your top knowledge would you say the pipe is part of the issue?

Let's say ignore the dust, difference, cutting off the drivers rear braking, would you feel the instability and lack of bite on drivers side?

 

[Foxspeed]

you would/should get some instability under braking if only one rear brake is working - it may also make it worse for the anti-lock and ultimately the
stability control under extreme situations - you could also get the pipe causing brake fluid to be slow to be released from the caliper

you have to change the pipe so do a good brake bleed and also give the fronts a good check over - as if you get brake pull to the left is usually the right
side that isn't braking as good and visa-versa

 

[Rocketron]

you would/should get some instability under braking if only one rear brake is working - it may also make it worse for the anti-lock and ultimately the
stability control under extreme situations - you could also get the pipe causing brake fluid to be slow to be released from the caliper

you have to change the pipe so do a good brake bleed and also give the fronts a good check over - as if you get brake pull to the left is usually the right
side that isn't braking as good and visa-versa

I was going to mention that in the first post but didn't want to drag on too much, yes the caliper is dragging due to fluid not releasing quickly.

I've had the front and rear stripped so many times it's unreal, I'll be honest it's not severe but I'm immensely fussy and light everything to be performing as it should be.

The pads and discs are less than 1000 miles usage, stripped them several times since and last week, checked each piston individually pushed out and also pushed out in pair plus all fours on both sides to see if some were slow, even popped the boots out to check the Pistons for putting and they all push back fine. My brakes are obsessively checked due to trying to find this culprit.

There's only one thing I forgot to mention, I had my hoses changed to braided a while back and the garage, very reputable broke a nipple on the inner side of the drivers front brembo, they bled it to the pipe Union then through to the outer nipple, would this effectively still bled it right through from the inner Pistons?


I'm replacing the fluid tomorrow along with the pipe so it'll get bled right through on all fours but will the lack of inner bleed nipple pose a problem on the front right?

Ate super blue ok or what else you recommend? 5.1?

 

[leeboy]

Have you checked that you haven't got a slightly warped disc? Or that the retaining springs and pins are allowing the pad to move freely?
I can't see that having a slight twisted hose will cause any issue, providing that the brakes have been fully bled properly as to me it sounds like you have air in the system, purely because once a line has fluid in it, no matter how many bends, providing it has the full amount of fluid in the line, it won't allow the piston to move.

If you have no bleed nipple, I'd suggest you get one sorted as once you open the system you will allow air into it, this could well be what is causing your above problems alas you might have air somewhere in the lines on the right front of the car.

 

[Rocketron]

Definitely not a warped disc, I changed to CL pads and used pagid discs for a few hundred miles then changed to better discs as i had mental health problems using euro car part discs with cl's lol. No judder silky smooth in that respect. The CL pads are pretty free in the calipers, so much room in around the pins also front and rear of the pad, all cleaned less than a week ago.

When I say a pipe I mean the actual ridged pipe on the rear caliper has a kink, and that caliper isn't applying fully nor releasing and it's the opposing side that felt over braked.

Since having the braided hoses changed a while back ive bled the system countless times but as you said it could be the bleed nipple, air trapped behind one of the inner Pistons but I'm certain the rear pipe being kinked is posing a problem, say it has half the flow capacity nearer the caliper, initially when the pedal is pressed would it not be slower to react than the others? And in turn not release as quickly hence dragging also

 

[Rocketron]

Also had the front wheels off today to seal the wheels and had a full check of the pad movement in the brembos

 

[leeboy]

I run CL pads on the front and are amazing! I was running rears too, until the friction material split in half!! I would understand if the material came away from the backing, but the backing had half the amount of material on them still.

I think that nipple is the cause of all the trouble you are getting to be honest.

 

[Rocketron]

Have you checked that you haven't got a slightly warped disc? Or that the retaining springs and pins are allowing the pad to move freely?
I can't see that having a slight twisted hose will cause any issue, providing that the brakes have been fully bled properly as to me it sounds like you have air in the system, purely because once a line has fluid in it, no matter how many bends, providing it has the full amount of fluid in the line, it won't allow the piston to move.

If you have no bleed nipple, I'd suggest you get one sorted as once you open the system you will allow air into it, this could well be what is causing your above problems alas you might have air somewhere in the lines on the right front of the car.

Feck it, I'll be changing the rear pipe tomorrow anyway, I'll be doing a full clio change, might as well strip all four corners and clean em up again, if I thought I could get the sheared bleeder out I'd take the brembo off the car and do that also but I reckon it'll be pretty well seized in, what size is the required bleed nipple?

 

[Rocketron]

I run CL pads on the front and are amazing! I was running rears too, until the friction material split in half!! I would understand if the material came away from the backing, but the backing had half the amount of material on them still.

I think that nipple is the cause of all the trouble you are getting to be honest.

Funny you should say that, I have rc6 on the front and rc5+ on the rear, amazing stopping power just this issue that's hampering the performance.

One thing I have noticed about CL's, the material is very fragile, has a tendency to crumble, mines haven't had much punishment and they have crumbled a bit here and there one edges so that may be linked to your issue, did you contact CL? I emailed them and they're asking to send back for inspection but I'd rather get this situation fixed first

 

[Foxspeed]

I was going to mention that in the first post but didn't want to drag on too much, yes the caliper is dragging due to fluid not releasing quickly.

I've had the front and rear stripped so many times it's unreal, I'll be honest it's not severe but I'm immensely fussy and light everything to be performing as it should be.

The pads and discs are less than 1000 miles usage, stripped them several times since and last week, checked each piston individually pushed out and also pushed out in pair plus all fours on both sides to see if some were slow, even popped the boots out to check the Pistons for putting and they all push back fine. My brakes are obsessively checked due to trying to find this culprit.

There's only one thing I forgot to mention, I had my hoses changed to braided a while back and the garage, very reputable broke a nipple on the inner side of the drivers front brembo, they bled it to the pipe Union then through to the outer nipple, would this effectively still bled it right through from the inner Pistons?


I'm replacing the fluid tomorrow along with the pipe so it'll get bled right through on all fours but will the lack of inner bleed nipple pose a problem on the front right?

that might be an issue/the problem - could still have air in - I would remove it and fit another - to eliminate any issue it may cause

 

[Rocketron]

that might be an issue/the problem - could still have air in - I would remove it and fit another - to eliminate any issue it may cause

Any advice on how to get that bugger out?!

I don't think an easy out will cut it.