Boot won't open - not solenoid

[GreySnowOgre]

Recently acquired a 197 to do some sprinting. It is proving to be a troublesome purchase. I'll stick to one problem per thread

The tailgate is refusing to open. I'm aware this is a common fault. I've replaced the combined latch and solenoid unit (brand new) which was of course very quick to do, but no fix. It doesn't matter if I press key fob button, Renault logo at back, or the handle/button under the boot lip; there is no sound whatsoever from the latch. It recently worked fine.

I also sprayed the plug connector both ends with WD40 to drive out any water.

Where do I look next?

 

[turkie172]

Have you disconnected the loom connector along the plastic sill the passenger seat is the car connected to the battery.

 

[GreySnowOgre]

I have not. The battery has been disconnected since the problem started (another story) but I've not touched that loom. Is this a source of water ingress or are you suggesting a fault in the loom?

 

[turkie172]

Well if the battery is disconnected the boot will not open and normally when the white connector is pulled apart the boot should open the signal to the boot travels through that connector. You can open the boot from inside small flat screw driver

 

[GreySnowOgre]

Ah sorry that was unclear of me. I meant that I've disconnected and reconnected the battery during the course of addressing another issue, so un/replugging this component shouldn't be relevant as a fix. Why do you mention the loom?

I've been able to open the boot by manually moving the white clip that's ok.I also understand how the component works. My point is, I've replaced the unit you've pictured and that hasn't fixed it so what should I be looking at next given none of the buttons makes a noise when I try open the boot.

 

[turkie172]

When people say they are tracking the car they are normally taking everything out so when you ask a question we are not there so we need a little background like is the car a CUP with a normal key or a full 197 with a key card. I thought you closed the boot and could not open it my experience is when the connector up the loom is disconnected it opens the boot. The boot is a common fault but you have 3 parts the diamond button the under boot lip opening button and the motorized lock so what have you replaced/tested if you take the under lip button out you can short the two wires which is what the switch does if the boot opens then the button needs fixed if it does not then the lock needs looked at.

 

[GreySnowOgre]

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply to the thread. I'll try shorting the wires today and see if that works.

It's a keyless 197 but not been stripped out as we were planning to run in a production standard class. Sadly it has a terrible water leak down the C pillar which was not solved by getting the panoramic roof resealed. We may end up stripping it out (forcing us into another class) because of the water damage.

I'll feed back once I've tried shorting the wires.

 

[turkie172]

Become a member its £5 a year but there are other option for one off for ever payment you have access to the how to section and for sale etc. There is a section for repair panoramic sunroof there is a drain in each corner the pipe can come away or block it's not the kind of car with that fitted for sprints a Clio cup with a cup pack would be a better starting point the sun roof is rare don't go cutting the car up welding roll cages in it if you can. Don't do an agricultural sealer job on the roof

 

[GreySnowOgre]

Firstly - boot is fixed! 10 minute job in the end; it was a poor connection on the copper contact within boot switch. Knowing it worked when shorting the wires made it a quick and confident fix thank you so much!

The fiver to access tech resources sounds like a good spend. This car has been a pain in the ass since we bought it (cheaply; should have known better!)

Next job is the roof drainage then!

As aside, it no longer starts (suspected crankshaft sensor issue but I failed to locate the damned sensor after getting it on axle stands 3 times last weekend!). I've got a proper mechanic putting it on low loader on Wednesday to get that sorted. I don't like getting my hands dirty.

You're right that the sunroof isn't great option for a track car. We hadn't targeted a 197 but this came up at right time and within initial budget. We're sharing the car and racing each other on the clock so it doesn't matter that we won't be as stiff as a non-sunroof. Equally, I expect we'll run this into the ground or into the barriers so I'm not really considering what happens to it after we're done

 

[suj]

Firstly - boot is fixed! 10 minute job in the end; it was a poor connection on the copper contact within boot switch. Knowing it worked when shorting the wires made it a quick and confident fix thank you so much!

The fiver to access tech resources sounds like a good spend. This car has been a pain in the ass since we bought it (cheaply; should have known better!)

Next job is the roof drainage then!

As aside, it no longer starts (suspected crankshaft sensor issue but I failed to locate the damned sensor after getting it on axle stands 3 times last weekend!). I've got a proper mechanic putting it on low loader on Wednesday to get that sorted. I don't like getting my hands dirty.

You're right that the sunroof isn't great option for a track car. We hadn't targeted a 197 but this came up at right time and within initial budget. We're sharing the car and racing each other on the clock so it doesn't matter that we won't be as stiff as a non-sunroof. Equally, I expect we'll run this into the ground or into the barriers so I'm not really considering what happens to it after we're done

The crankshaft sensor is on the gearbox bellhousing, it 1 bolt and near where the flywheel is (passenger side I went in from when mine went).

Just stole this pic from TCW's thread:



You can see it poking through on the bottom right.

 

[GreySnowOgre]

Only just spotted this reply. Wondering if there's enough time to put tis thing back up on stands and having a fiddle before the guy who knows what he's doing turns up...

I'm inclined to suck up the cost at this point, since I could fiddle and get it running but I probably still need to swap the sensor out once I've got the part number.

 

[turkie172]

The 172/182 Clio's had a bad connector to the gear box mounted flywheel pickup that stopped the car starting but from what I have seen its normally the clutch coming apart that comes into physical connect with the gearbox mounted sensor braking it.
If the car is turning over and not starting then it could be the sensor if the engine does not turn over the problem could be else where like the fuse plate built into the red battery connector or with the steering unlocked message on the dash the starter heat shield has shorted out on the positive constant live terminal on the starter blowing the engine bay 20Amp starter fuse which normally happens after a manifold replacement or repair.

 

[Rs197_jack]

You’ve replaced the boot button bit yes?

I had the same issue where I was unable to use the button on the key fob or button under the actual boot itself, boot made no noises when pressed or anything. I replaced the button, £10 on eBay and worked fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turkie172]

I think he fixed the boot locking problem he now has a non starting problem

 

[GreySnowOgre]

Hey all thanks for the follow up.

Boot problem was solved - was copper contact within the tailgate switch.

Non starting was down to damaged crank shaft sensor. Suspect previous owner had had on off at some point and knocked it. Simple but costly fix as I wussed out of doing it myself.

Will start a separate thread at some point for accessing the rear sunroof drains and for replacing the inlet manifold breather which is "noisy" apparently.

Appreciate everyone's interest and input on this thread, thank you.