Another gearbox oil thread

You're welcome man. I've learnt tons about cars on forums like this one. It feels good to return the favour every now and again. ;-)

Peace
 
My mechanic is an ex Renault head-mechanic. He even used to teach advanced classes in the Clio V6 when they came to South Africa. He has since left Renault, and opened his own garage, RenoMax. I recommend him to everyone, coz his labour costs are half the price of the dealership, and he loves teaching his customers how to better care for their cars. Great guy. The type who still has a passion for cars. U seldom find guys like this at the "stealership" service centres...
 
My mechanic is an ex Renault head-mechanic. He even used to teach advanced classes in the Clio V6 when they came to South Africa. He has since left Renault, and opened his own garage, RenoMax. I recommend him to everyone, coz his labour costs are half the price of the dealership, and he loves teaching his customers how to better care for their cars. Great guy. The type who still has a passion for cars. U seldom find guys like this at the "stealership" service centres...

No you're right, they're few and far between, there's a good renault specialist up my way who's similar, Brian from rentec Autocare, got my manifold and steering rack plus a few other bits done by him and wouldn't look past him for major work.

Makes you wonder how the dealerships can justify charging the rate that they do....fancy showrooms and overheads etc but customer satisfaction goes a long way
 
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Hi

Only just saw this.

What was suggested about the ATF is a pretty standard option in a manual gearbox, but with Sierras and Fords of that sort of age, the standard grade was pretty much the same viscosity as an ATF. What could be worth doing is using a mix of ATF with the MTL that is already in there, so perhaps drain off a litre of the MTL and add a bottle of the Red Line D4. If the oil is too thin, it will not protect properly, so using a mix of the two oils shouldn't reduce the viscosity too much.

Cheers

Tim
 
Hi

Only just saw this.

What was suggested about the ATF is a pretty standard option in a manual gearbox, but with Sierras and Fords of that sort of age, the standard grade was pretty much the same viscosity as an ATF. What could be worth doing is using a mix of ATF with the MTL that is already in there, so perhaps drain off a litre of the MTL and add a bottle of the Red Line D4. If the oil is too thin, it will not protect properly, so using a mix of the two oils shouldn't reduce the viscosity too much.

Cheers

Tim

Hi mate, i took someone's advice on there and cleaned then lubed the cables and connecting ball joints and I have to say so far its transformed it. It was 4dgs this morning and usually it would be near on impossible to select a gear, slipped straight in, just so it wasn't a fluke I stopped a couple of feet, waited and kept doing this with no issue.

Just a pointer for other folk with this problem.
 
Oh happiness! Glad it worked bud. Which lubricant did you end up using? I'm gonna be buying some tomorrow, just so that I always have some spare laying around...
 
Oh happiness! Glad it worked bud. Which lubricant did you end up using? I'm gonna be buying some tomorrow, just so that I always have some spare laying around...

It was s.a.s silicone spray, it's just what I had handy really, also good for plastics so thought it be better what wd40.

I might use some silicone grease though at some stage. I'm gonna take the battery out this weekend to get right to it, I also sprayed down into the cable itself, where the cables mount onto the gearbox you'll see it, just in case the cables were snagging
 
Any updates on the cable lube Rocketron? Hoping to hear it wasnt a one off!

Definitely worked, used my car every morning since and been very cold, usually when it's hardest to get into gear, it's tighter like any box when stone cold but not like hitting a wall as was previously.

It's an easy job to take the battery out and get into the cable housing and the ball/socket just give it a bash, made a massive difference.

If you do post an update, it's handy for others to know it's not just coincidence
 
I may well do. I just changed from Fuchs to Redline but not tried it from cold yet. I am not mega confident much will have changed on the cold getting a gear issue. Anything need doing after reconnecting the battery other than the radio code? Also, exactly what bits did you spray with the sas, and did you clean or prep anything before doing so? Cheers :smile:
 
It's mainly the bushings where the cables meet the gearbox... It seems rocketron went to town with the lube though :-D

I'm just glad it helped!
Maybe you should do a tutorial next time u have the battery out rocketron.

Peace
 
Did you get a chance to read my last post Rocketron?

I did mate, sorry I forgot to come back on and reply 852d71b4408882932b9ba43afc29d375.jpg

See on the end of the cables u can see the sockets? Where these link onto the gearbox just lube them up, also where the cables brace onto the box the cables run inside a sleeve same as a handbrake cable does or a bike brake cable, I sprayed some down there.
 
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It's mainly the bushings where the cables meet the gearbox... It seems rocketron went to town with the lube though :-D

I'm just glad it helped!
Maybe you should do a tutorial next time u have the battery out rocketron.

Peace

lol....can't beat a bit of lube ;-)
 
I think Reno dealers will charge an arm and a leg to do this for us... My mechanic did it for free the 1st time I had the problem... Now he has to do it at every service. Prevention > cure.
 
I think Reno dealers will charge an arm and a leg to do this for us... My mechanic did it for free the 1st time I had the problem... Now he has to do it at every service. Prevention > cure.

I think it's something that nobody will really think of addressing unless the links are m noticeably seized or worn in excess.

Definitely a DIY job though,