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Yeah, I got it from frogjam, not OE but the quality is good https://frogjammotorsport.co.uk/products/crankshaft-damped-pulley?_pos=2&_sid=d53f8b232&_ss=r

Hmm, it's weird as mine will do it when hot or cold but triggered by revving over ~2.5k, it's like the TB is stuck open slightly.

70 laps, 60 litres of fuel and zero issues (on the track). I was starting to get nervous about not having tested the engine so booked a very last minute (night before) track day at Combe yesterday. Supposed to be racing here next month and the weather looked good so thought it would be worth...

Awesome! That has suddenly made me very nervous

Took the afternoon off last Friday and got the engine in and running. I took the hit and replaced the clutch, I got to the point of putting the old one on before deciding, it just didn’t feel right when torqueing, as if the pressure plate had lost some of its ‘pressure’ I had the engine upside...

90% sure you will need to depin and rewire, relatively simple once you have access.

Ah man that really sucks, looks like you where going well :thumb: I watched a Yaris spin at the same spot but they ended up hitting the barrier on the left and ending up upside down. Have you got the catalyst app? Would be interesting to compare...

Not yet, I have just stripped some parts, going to pull the head when I have the car back together.

The racers used a 28mm stop, I just doubled mine up but sounds like a 3d printer job.

No, there is a sensor on the clutch pedal which I believe the ECU reacts on which may need adjusting or is faulty although it does sound like an air leak of some sort.

Check the clutch sensor under the pedal as well

Standard is 15V ± 0.5, check the connections but it is normally pointing to the regulator on the way out which is cheaper fix than a replacement if you want to try that first 'F00M144131'

The obvious answer is oil pressure but then you would expect the big ends to suffer but they are always in much better condition. I have read that the crank tends to have an imbalance which causes it which makes more sense.

I have gone with the wise decision, purchased a 99k engine (F4R 832) a few weeks ago from AshG for £600, service history from new and came with everything but manifold and TB which I think is a very good price considering what some are wanting on fb. Ash even chucked in an ECU which I have got...

Wasn’t that to clear the lip on the 8j wheels?

Probably a bit late now as you don’t want to impact the geo but can you not spin the damper or has the gaz got a plate preventing it? I am on 4 deg now and it seems extreme but there was a ex racer in the garage next to me and that was close to 5 deg and was also considerably lower. Would love...

Remove the tensioner pulley?

Nope, I am seeing what seems to be clutch slip at high gears / rpm but no apparent evidence, unless I am being stupid the only reasons I can think of: - Slipping clutch - Slipping diff, I don’t think a plated diff would result in this? - ECU pulling the timing I don’t think it’s the ECU due...

Hmm, is it possible that I had made the rotating assembly too light resulting in the slip?

Pulled the engine, no surprises with the exhaust valves in cylinder 1 looking a little bit broken. I have found pieces of engine in the throttle body and I still need to pull the manifold to check the cat survived. Hard to tell with the head on but it looks like the valves in 4 might be...