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After seeing one of these with a 200 engine at blyton I really like the look of these

That is hopefully the goal, it’d be nice to learn how to do synchros given how often they seem to go

lend us 12 grand then will you, i’ve seen who you do track days with :tearsofjoy:

Other way round, The outside edge of the tyre is very worn and the inside edge has barely worn

Pretty sure I get the same noise from the throttle body, not caused me any issues yet.

I did a brief check to see if there were any loose bolts or rivets missing from the plate but my process was essentially: the clutch is still here. nice

Ok, I’ll try that next. It probably is me doing something wrong, it was still drivable before I tried bleeding it again :chair:

There was an o ring missing, we managed to grab a few from a garage but then with the valve closed and the metal clip on, the pressure from pressing the clutch pedal seems pretty harsh and just fires the line off the slave. I’ve tried bending the clip a bit but doesn’t seem to be helping. I...

Asking for a friend… Why would brake fluid squirt out of the clutch bleed point even with the valve closed/clip in. The car worked fine and was a bit crunchy, tried to bleed it again, some dirty looking stuff came out, put it back together and now it squirts out when it should be closed

Looking forward to getting them fitted!

Thanks for the tip! I’ll double check the wheel weights when it all goes on. What difference did you find? Having never experienced it I’m just assuming bigger means more heat dissipation. Does it feel different as well?

Not that I didn’t believe you, but it made a bigger difference than I thought it would :tearsofjoy:

For sure, we’ll see how it holds up tomorrow

We were running 75W-80 before the box came out. Alex suggested it looked like it had been getting quite hot so to try out some 110 or 140

I use a cheap ryobi impact, perfectly good enough for a driveway mechanic. Very rarely do I come across a nut/bolt it won’t crack off

It will be lower arm suspension balljoint, that one is threaded in rather than pressed in. https://www.kamracing.co.uk/ocap-wishbone-ball-joint-renault-clio-mk3-rs197-rs200.html

I’ve had the Subframe off loads of times but this is the first time i’ve removed the gearbox without pulling the engine as well

Pretty much yes

I believe @RSRowe had lots of issues with the ktec one snapping bolts. I've had the PMS one fitted for a while and its been fine, easy to fit and can get replacement pulleys/bearings easily. I also had the cup one which came on my old Clio cup which was also fine, only issue was I couldn't...

Pretty straight forward. How I did it: undo steering column bolt in the footwell, Hub nuts, bottom ball joint/wishbone nut, drop link nut, anti rotation link nut, subframe brace, lower engine mount, rear most subframe support bracket bolts, unplug electrical connector on steering rack then a...