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Attach to the side and drill hole through the circled points then screw the side skirt in. washer is recommended. 4 points lifter will make it easier to access for perfect job.

The Duct Work executed perfectly. :sunglasses:

CR-S > AR-1 With CR-S and based on the feedback I got and recent personal experience (on M4RS Trophy-R), you can do consecutive hot laps and grip retains spot on whereas AR-1 starts to give up much earlier. unfortunately, CR-S doesn't come with the size I'm using for Clio :cry:

So, its either you go CatCams 403 with CatCams timing tool + Luck! or just retain OEM setup :sweatsmile:

How did you find MRF so far?

Why not considering to extend the air scope feed in to the air box?

Started with the seats as they are the easiest. since the car got back from the dealer after fixing the gear cables, I noticed the wire cable underneath the driver seat sat loose on the floor and wasn't attached to the seat rail as it should be. I assured the connector on that wire cable is...

Where to start from? Steering wheel?

Hi, I'm having frequent amber spanner sign with "check airbag" message. It pops up and disappears while driving. What could that be?

You can consider Combrake adjustable top mounts. I have them with B16 and achieved -2.5. However, if Gaz comes with it's own adjustable top plate, go for it a whole package.

I'm using AMS 75W90

My recommendation is either you go for a drop-in filter or Clio V6 Air box. avoid any open filter as it will sustain heat soak from the engine bay which is impact the car's overall performance.

just the adapters for turbo base & the exhaust manifold. I believe they are available separately to be used on existing turbo. You will also need a professional for Laser welding. You can retain the Exhaust housing and just get a new set of bolts with bolt lock tube.

Then V-band should the ideal solution.

I'd recommend you go with locked-wire bolts.

probably worth cleaning the lambda sensors ends if they are pretty old and may be clogged (or replace them)

I'm suspecting #3 for my case as the clicking is near that area under the dashboard. Thanks @turkie172

worth a pressure leak off test for peace of mind since it'll be open anyway since you will be repairing the bottom.

It might be one of the AC venting flaps jammed which requires me to either inspect behind the AC control from the acceleration paddle side to see if I can pinpoint the source or remove the whole dashboard for better visual. I'm guessing this noise evolved with time since I swapped all the...