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For anyone that cares I have fitted four switches under the indicator switch, added some resistors and a few bits of wire and voila! Shorted out the pins on the plug in the centre console, I have no lights on the dash, but my speedo says how fast I’m going :) and I know cruise is on because it...

Thanks to @turkie172 for his help with the diagrams :french::thumb:

It only bloody works!! :smile: :smile: cost... nothing to me as we have all the switches/resistors in stock at work, but under a tenner in bits I reckon! Piece of cake to build too! Took me an hr to dig everything out and build it...

So I set about the cruise control stalk emulating effort... see that big blank area under the indicator stalk, well it’s big enough for four press to make switches and a few resistors on the back, once I’d made sure it was correct resistance wise I hot glued the lot for vibration resistance...

@Ade T can you help him out?

What about the ones on here that are breaking? Maybe they have one?

Nope, makes no odds! If it’s gonna break or come off it will total the engine regardless of whether it’s doing 2000 revs or 5000! Never heard mention of that anywhere... ever and I’ve fitted 1000’s of timing belts!

drowning in a sea of the passenger side footwell!

the rear window to door seal isn't for waterproofing anyway so defo not that, only the seal around the door aperture is a moisture seal to the inside :thumb:

I’m gonna do mine attached to the car the car in a bit, not baking them so will take a day to dry I reckon, then bolt em back on :smile: hang em on cable ties at work and take my bike in the car to pedal back and there again :smile: I’ll take some pics for you

Sorry wasn’t meant to sound condescending, I have encountered stuff like that from all sorts of people though. It will all become clearer when you read it with the glove box out, becomes far easier with something to look at :thumb: It will all fit once you get the iso plugs out of the way...

You did fit the normal cage as well as the surround filler plastic part you bought?? You do need both bits, one doesn’t replace the other? I was presuming you’d fitted the plastic surround and the cage as well, then slid the radio through it?

No, I am not sure which part gives you that idea as I dont mention putting screws into it??? you use the normal cage that comes with the radio, the glovebox removal is to allow you to pull the leads through the side at the back of the slot, then it clicks in like normal, the leads behind are...

Not really, it’s very tight, when fitting mine with adaptors etc I removed the glove box, five torx t20’s, one tip centre about 3” inside the glovebox, three behind trim at the top (comes off very easily!) and the remove the left hand side plate, again, unclips nice and easy, then it slides out...

I would as from experience anything with eco is crap being honest!

Used to French stuff after 10+ years on Peugeot’s! I’ve seen it all! :) comes in handy for electrical work though! :)

Oh and I left the carpet folded up and drive the 18 minutes from work on gas mark 23, heaters were full up and my skin felt damp :D

So when I first picked the car up it had an odd patch of condensation on the rear quarter window, odd but it went on the trip back and was never seen again... then it got hot, now it’s rained and water has collected the scuttle drains were blocked and the passenger side floor pan has filled up...

From 12 years as a mechanic... Windows don’t generally have seals, (not to water getting in anyway in a waterproof manner, stop most of it is more like) doors are designed to be a wet environment and have liners/plastic sheets fixed in with a sealant of some kind and drain holes at the bottom...

long shot I know as it won’t generally have one, don’t fancy painting them all body coloured as it will lose the Renault sport emblem, and want to colourcode just the centre console to match and blend the radio adaptor into it as it looks crap with the trim insert, and the black rubbery coating...