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So what colour you reckon? I’m tempted by dark metallic grey

Second is in primer... thanks to the local builders for leaving me a painting jig to hold wheels! Fits the centre bore nicely

So I’ve next knocked the mist coat back and then gave the first one a coat of primer The question is what colour do I paint them to suit the car colour? Satin black is cheap and we have lots in work

I think he meant fitting axle spacers pav :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:

So now I’ve decided to do something about the wheels as it’s getting decidedly dicey knocking about on the yokos! Brought them into work while it's quiet and attacked them! First job, mist coat of black spray paint Then use my electric DA from B&Q Ive had since car audio days with 120 grit...

If you don’t like mid range torque I’d leave it as is, look at any before or after map and there’s a massive difference, people look at bhp and think that’s it, you don’t drive normally at peak power, it’s there for about half a second per gear generally

Remove and Strip the box and adjust end float with correct shims to suit, either way it needs to come out again...

Not sure who your asking, but assuming it’s me... all rotating parts will effect ability to rev, torque for driving up hills, and drive ability... so in the same way as lightening a flywheel will enable an engine to rev quicker, potentially ruin an idle etc, making the flywheel heavier will have...

That’s to be expected, the Megane is a lower revving engine and also will be stronger to take extra forces of boost, your power curve will be effected a little also, it will make power a bit lower and perhaps have a little more midrange, but not too noticeable I take it the throw is identical as...

Sounds like the input shaft bearing id edit your first post to read ‘if the pedal is depressed the noise is disappearing’ It reads the other way round as it’s written now...

Early 200 cup dampers will also fit I think as lowering springs are the same with early top mounts, so the bottom of the spring is the exact same shape... as would the top cap and the mounts are also the same... Personally I’d put standard dampers back on with standard springs otherwise your...

I’d buy new stub axles if they are bent... your post almost reads like you’d shim it if it was bent... which I don’t think you meant, if the axle is actually twisted somehow I’d defo replace it rather than shim it also...

Yes if the resistance is correct it will work fine Measure your old seats and the Corsa ones

Try playing with the throttle on load so accelerate in third to say 4K revs and let off, of the noise goes as your throttle matches your revs it’s a bearing in the box, possibly the diff (we used to get it a lot on tu boxes) Although it also possible from your first video that it’s the exhaust...

If it’s the inners on the cables bubbling and sticking, I just slackened the cables and cut the bubbles section off and applied copious amounts of grease No issues since, it could also be corrosion under the shims in the rear carriers that sit under the pads as rear brakes spend lots of time...

Check your handbrake cables aren’t sticking in the inners and holding the arms on the calipers forwards (it’s also common for people with a lack of knowledge to over tighten the handbrake cables so the arms on the caliper don’t sit fully back on the stops! This doesn’t allow the ratchet...

as an instructor I would be hesitant in using something as explosive as a 230 r26 conversion for tuition, a nice steady build to a peak is a good transition and very predictable whereas a turbo with zero power to boost and a real kick wont be so nice I wouldn't think... a standard turbo engine...

It’s not bad, your delivery needs work, as do your facts... it’s erm... 150-160ft lbs... it’s not hard to find out what it actually delivers, you could have also explained why it’s 194bhp... its 197ps hence its name, interesting facts like that keep people interested, it’s in the owners manual...

It’s simple, remove caliper and carrier, unbolt old disc assembly, slide on new, torque to 175nm and reassemble, you need a decent torque wrench but other than that nowt hard about doing rear discs

Push/pull it out, massage gently with a dolly and hammer and that will return to pretty much its old shape, fill and paint, not a massive job and not complex at all, if it’s insurance why are you bothered? As long as the finished repair looks good and is straight there’s nowt to worry about...