Search results

Been a long time since I updated this thread, the car's been off the road since sometime in 2018, and is currently in the final few jobs before getting a fresh MOT. I only intended to take it off the road for a few months, but the arrival of two children, getting married and some of the busiest...

Is that a jenvey turbo plenum with some machining to move the diffuser to the front? What’s the expected benefits of running itb’s with the supercharger or is it as much a cause we can and it’s cool thing which is absolutely cool with me

I’ll take a look at it soon I think and give it a proper going over. The guys who fitted my cage half assed it and used nothing so I quickly stuck some waxy oil on when I realised. I’ll go back and do a proper job like this thanks

I’m interested too I used some waxy oil but think before it sees any real road use I’d like to do the seam sealer

That’s where the air comes through from the engine bay on the drivers side

The vents are to exhaust engine bay heat, there isn’t a specific hole between the engine bay and the wheel arch vent but there is plenty of gaps for it to make its way out. Don’t know how effective it is but it does do something. Some Renault literature claims it compensates for the increased...

No you just need the spacers etc from a cup racer transferred to your own rack. I don’t think there is anything special about the cup racer rack and they are left hand drive

dont Know for sure but don’t think the cup racer rack is any different but have a feeling the cup race cars were left hand drive. Quite a few of us on the forum are using various combinations of cup racer parts. Basically the subframe and suspension/steering geometry are altered to enhance the...

When I installed mine it was shorter and needed a shim under one of the bearings, it was about 1.5mm from memory

Also I think the 197/200 gearbox might not match up to that block without some work. If it was my money unless I had some evidence that engine actually had cams etc and made more than 190-200bhp I’d save my money and just get an f4r 832, otherwise you could spend the cost of the engine again...

It looks more like the equivelant of a 172/183 era F4r spot the fuel rail on the lower inlet manifold and the can phaser. The 197/200 equivelant f4r from a formula Renault for example would have the same inlet manifold as the road car with a bend to move the throttle body in line with the air...

My cars still being put back together so have only had it running on the drive. I went for both the silencer and sports cat as I didn’t want anything too loud especially as I’ve no interior in the car and don’t want noise issues on track, all I have is a couple of clips of it on the drive so far.

Worth mentioning the pms manifold doesn’t use a flexi either instead using a sprung slip joint. With an uprated lower engine mount that should be ok. I have their full system and it’s a perfect fit. The different options around sports cat and silencers is good aswell, I think if your looking...

I was going to convert to studs but the wheels I ended up with it wouldn’t work so I sold the kit, I’ve got a few spare studs and when fitting wheels I just use one of them in the hub loosely to put the wheel on and then putting the bolts in is a doddle!

I have rstuner with airbag module so used it to set the ecu to have no airbags

All airbags are out including the curtain ones it’s bare metal on the inside. Have heard about folk having to get msa log books etc and have come across a few anal testers. Just wondered peoples experiences. I’ve sorted the airbag light just the car is quite extreme lol

hi guys I started my track car build wel over a year ago and the car is stripped, no airbags, fixed buckets and has safety devices half cage and harnesses done to msa standards. It will be finished soon and will need an mot, has anyone had issues getting an mot recently with a similar setup?

Pure motorsport also do one, looks like the best one to me as it’s the only one that isn’t just a copy of the oem one as the primary and secondary lengths have been recalculated. No flexi joint to fail either it’s got slip joints instead. Its what I’m fitting to mine.

just started taking the front brakes apart and having some trouble getting the pistons out. I don’t have compressed air to pop them out anyone got any tips or tricks for getting them out?

When fitting the cup racer subframe and supports what bolts are people using for the two that bolt the subframe to the body, and the two that go through the supports and wishbones?