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From what I understand Catcams need precise timing to gain peak power, the standard tools don’t provide this and you need to use the “lift at TDC method using the Catcams tools or a butchered rocker cover and a vernier.

Sounds about right to be honest. Some cars may make a bit more, some less.

The front studs need to be longer as they sit in the hub behind the disc, the rears sit in the disc. I’d say you’ll be fine with 75mm and 68mm

Front

Rear

I went with 75mm and 68mm total length (55mm and 48 thread length) for ET55 OZ wheels

As Gav says, you need to code out the seatbelts you’ve removed

PMS shifters are in stock now

The cracking noise is the ribbon cable crunching up, mine did this when I changed my steering wheel too.

Sounds like you’ve goosed the ribbon cables in the squib. Wheel off and check connections and more than likely replace (if you want to keep the cruise control and airbags)

Only if it has unicorns on

Where did you get a large enough shower cap? Asking for a friend…….

I prefer the standard spring type, I’ve had issues with worm drive clamps. The T clamp are nice but pricey

I have most of these on mine too, good quality for the money.

Silicone hoses

It comes as one piece with the plastic joins etc

The silver one is incorrect as it has the reference port on it. That looks like an FPR that would sit in a fuel rail. You can’t get the FPR out of the plastic items without bastardising it unfortunately. Why do you think you need a new one? You could just swap out the bottom portion with the...

Yes

You can either drop the tank or cut a larger hole and plate it

It’s the silver part (yours will be plastic)