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Bogging at low revs is well documented. Here’s a dyno print of my old car…

Are you sure they don't fit? They look to be the same as the Mk3 Megane and Mk3 Clio bases which SW Motorsport offer. Perhaps it would be worth reaching out to them?

Taylor made designs on IG may be able to help.

Great system though Paul. The best IMO!

It could be lots of things really. Without getting it stripped there’s no real way to tell. It could be the cam seals, rocker gasket, head gasket, main seal. Someone could have spilled some oil one time. Needs cleaning off best you can, and then running to try and trace the source better.

Great plan! You should buy a fancy manifold now with all those monies saved. Man maths

Well there’s no actual adjustment in anything in stock form.

It’s pretty normal on the 200’s this. Some are worse than others.

Glittery oil - check Bad noises - check Martin - oh lets book another track day You should put that money into the replacement engine ya sausage!

You're broken

Sensor 2 is not likely to be the culprit, as it doesn’t affect how the car runs.

Should have bought the Duct3D wiring kit :nomouth:

Great update! I'd say the test day at Oulton is definitely worthwhile. It's my local and having been a fair few times, I thought I was pretty handy round there until I had some tuition.

You can get an enlarged one, but they’re £160 and also a waste of time imo.

Generally the consensus is that the shock will need revalving with such a jump in rates, but I’m certain there’s people around who’ve done it. I’d perhaps sell the Gaz’s and get something even more track orientated like AST. It wouldn’t be nice on the road mind :tearsofjoy:

Are you really struggling with turn in that much you are wanting to change things up? Simmo’s just gone up a couple of kg on the back of his as he was wanting a looser rear.

Well there would be nothing stopping you plugging the sensor in and tying it up out the way somewhre.

Yep, that's it. It's usually spot welded to a thin strip of metal

I believe the error/fault is just disabled. The ecu knows there's an issue, but it's prevented from illuminating the light to show that. The second sensor generally is still required to be plugged in, as without one, there's a different fault code which appears.