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I don’t think the proper cups had the switch

Proper update, looks great! How did you find the wiring strip down? I've planned to leave ours well alone for now.

It's a white Renault Zoe :tearsofjoy: I did consider getting some but I'd seen a man with a mullet on YouTube do it quite effectively with a blow torch which I already had. It seemed to work pretty well. I need to drive the clio to work a few days next week so I'll find out if it's made much...

In both ( :grimacing: ) our crashes the car still started up fine afterwards, the airbags went off on the first one and the airbags were disabled in the second one.

The second signal voltage should be half the first, so if its reading each signal separately 88% for the first and 44% for the second would make sense.

Not sure on that error code sorry

Hmm, you could try looking at the same data with another logging tool to see if it’s the same. Failing that, maybe physically look at the throttle body whilst the pedal is pressed to see if it’s fully opened.

The voltage of each potentiometer should increase together, one just starts at a higher voltage than the other. What issue are you having?

No warranty provided :tearsofjoy:

We got a few bits each from frogjam motorsport and pure motorsport

I copied the technique from @RSRowe’s thread. https://clio197.net/threads/the-crunchy-197.61366/page-9#post-738752 It’s essentially just front bumper off, rad support off, tie the radiator up out of the way and crack on as normal, there’s just about enough room to get it out with the engine...

After seeing one of these with a 200 engine at blyton I really like the look of these

That is hopefully the goal, it’d be nice to learn how to do synchros given how often they seem to go

lend us 12 grand then will you, i’ve seen who you do track days with :tearsofjoy:

Other way round, The outside edge of the tyre is very worn and the inside edge has barely worn

Pretty sure I get the same noise from the throttle body, not caused me any issues yet.

I did a brief check to see if there were any loose bolts or rivets missing from the plate but my process was essentially: the clutch is still here. nice

Ok, I’ll try that next. It probably is me doing something wrong, it was still drivable before I tried bleeding it again :chair:

There was an o ring missing, we managed to grab a few from a garage but then with the valve closed and the metal clip on, the pressure from pressing the clutch pedal seems pretty harsh and just fires the line off the slave. I’ve tried bending the clip a bit but doesn’t seem to be helping. I...

Asking for a friend… Why would brake fluid squirt out of the clutch bleed point even with the valve closed/clip in. The car worked fine and was a bit crunchy, tried to bleed it again, some dirty looking stuff came out, put it back together and now it squirts out when it should be closed