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It could be either really as I’ve got the same symptoms and know for certain my clamp needs to be changed. I believe that as long as the flexis are visibly in good condition it is unlikely to be them. The manifold also tends to fail at the flange so worth looking at that too.

Are you sure the exhaust leak isn’t from the exhaust/manifold clamp?

Then you’ll want to watch the second video as that utilises a mini BT dongle that uses the aux port.

This is an installation video for the link I provided. You'll want to make sure you actually have a compatible head unit. This is an alternative method that utilises a little Bluetooth aux module:

You'll want something like this by the sound of it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09DPCJW64/?tag=clio197-21

I will try to dig the old screen/housing out of storage and measure it. Sure! It’s a Raspberry Pi system running OpenAuto Pro. You will definitely need at a minimum basic Linux experience or a willingness to learn in order to make the most of it.

Slightly less OEM this time around as the screen is bigger than the last one but still better than the giant tablets that seem to be stuck on the dash in newer cars IMO. Wireless CarPlay works a treat and a there’s already a charging cable in the glovebox to stop the battery dying on longer...

Only difference will be for cars with Xenons (an option on non-sports too), as they are larger capacity bottles.

Does anyone know if there is a circuit that is only live when the engine is running? Perm-live and ACC ignition circuits won’t work for what I need them for. I suspect the answer is no, but would like to be sure!

Someone said replacing the lambda sensor helped their kangerooing issues disappear. Maybe worth checking your manifold to secondary cat clamp, as I have a feeling this is what’s reintroduced kangerooing on mine, as I know it’s leaking.

If you have the GT spoiler you will need a new tailgate. You can go from Cup spoiler to GT spoiler without a new tailgate but not the other way around.

^^This. Mine also gave up the ghost yesterday funnily enough and it was due to a dead battery. Those spoiler end caps are also genuine and their quality does seem to vary on the spoilers I’ve seen.

Take a look at the boot floor and if it’s fine push for the insurance company to repair. It’s a bit more work and not really your responsibility but a wheel alignment to check the rear axle and inspection of the boot floor with the diffuser off would also help make a case for repair.

At the age that most Meganes are, to do a job properly you’re going to need to forge the engine, unless you want to run one at standard power or one that’s very mildly tuned. Why not then instead forge your own engine and fit a supercharger? Cost wise I imagine it would be similar to that of an...

Mick is very well known and I’ve used him myself a few times. You definitely won’t be disappointed.

All those quotes (apart from the service) are the going rate in the southeast. Not sure where you’re based but for the cost of a tank of petrol I’m sure you can find somewhere cheaper.

No worries, I’ve been in your situation so know what it feels like. I’ll send you a pm with a bit more info on a payout in this current market.

Insurers typically ask for links to adverts on autotrader if you want to haggle for a greater write off value. Having seen what some cars have actually sold for on eBay (R27 with fair miles but a good spec) I’m not sure links to sold cars would work in your favour, as the R27 and a few others...

It’s worth investing in a bottle of Plusgas if you’re going to be spannering on the car more often.

It is risky depending on how bad the vibrations are, but maybe it’s worth taking the front bumper/bonnet off, running the car on a ramp, using cruise control to hold the RPMs at 2300 and do a visual check?