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"camshaft shifter solenoid” would be describing the 'vvt solenoid' which is situated right next to spark plug 4 (far left), I would first change the plugs and check the wiring to the solenoid. The part itself is about £170 here and would take 5 minutes to change so you are better off...

Yeah I would certainly want some time on the track as it looks super technical, a lot more interesting than what we have down here.

Silverstone International Round 8/9/10 Missed the Saturday qualifying / race 8 and joined for the Sunday, arrived nice and early for a quick chat with the Clerk to confirm I could do the mandatory 3 laps with Club Enduro. She had no issue but only wanted me to do the 3 laps and then come in...

80/120 so basically cup racer. I have mentioned this in my thread but the reason Gaz and others recommend a stiffer front is to combat the terrible roll centre you get when you lower these cars. The stiffer front stop the excessive roll you get once the front wishbones are pointing up. Now you...

Fastest semi slick you can buy in both wet and dry IMO

Couldn’t help myself and wrapped the spoiler, for £15 worth of Ali I think it looks good, suits the car shape.

Really interesting, thanks for sharing! It’s pretty much what I expected in terms of reduction in drag / lift, the ~10% reduction in drag and a reasonable drop in lift at the rear although I see what you are saying regarding the diffuser. Have you experimented in using these numbers in a...

Awesome, what are you using? I started setting up openfoam but soon realised it was going to take a long time to get something working so have parked it for now. I would be interested in the data, my understanding is that cleaning the air at the rear would help the diffuser but maybe not. As...

Priority since Snett has been to improve cooling, having confirmed thermostat was working and no leaks the general consensus on insta was that my radiator was past its best. Easy fix with a replacement from frogjam. I then got carried away and made some ali ducting to go around the...

Your intitial description sounds like battery or earth but the low battery error is pretty standard and is always the alternator (regulator) assuming your earths are all good.

Oil is pumped to the bearings, jets and head, the former gets sprayed everywhere and settles into the sump and the latter drains down basically on the inside of the block. The rear main has an oil feed from main cap 1 so it sees a lot of oil and tends to leak if old or not seated correctly.

That will be rear main but if you have put 5.3ltr in it’s potentially because it’s overfull rather than a seal that needs replacing especially if it’s leaking and you haven’t started it yet as there shouldn’t be any oil that high

Snetterton Round 6/7 Left the house at 4:30 to find myself talking to the police 5 minutes later when I came across a 4 year old in the next village on the pavement in her pj’s in the rain/dark, somehow had escaped from her house and was very confused / scared. This obviously delayed me so...

If it’s on a ramp and it was me, I would dump the oil, drop the sump, clean and replace the gasket as well as checking for any sludge on the oil pump pick-up. Also watch out for those plastic dipsticks as they can snap.

Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick? I find 5.1ltr with a filter change would put it at max. Regarding the flush I would never use something like that unless I was going to drop the sump and give it a proper clean afterwards even then not sure it’s worth the risk.

Its pure manifold attached to an Akra with a 200 cell cat welded in between. The smack was annoyance for having to lift slightly on the exit as I went in a bit too hot :sweatsmile: Ah no, I was bedding in some new DS1.11 which I forgot to mention.

Finally bolted on the splitter I have been working on for a while, car looked awesome. Fell off on lap 1, luckily just one side so was able to get back to the pits with the smell of burning ply. I severely underestimated the amount of downforce it would create having bolted it to the...

I would assume fresh tyres will help but I imagine the cause is your spring rates, now you have fixed the RC the frontend is too stiff relative to the rear.

Agreed, I think seat time is the answer. In my case it was 100% the pads as the issue went when I switched back. Yeah clios do like an aggressive driver, braking late / over braking and the momentum just dies.

Last minute booking at Snetterton with MSV last Thursday, decided the drive was worth the £200 saving over Brands and I needed some practice. Pleasant surprise to bump into @Helpimonfire as I was pulling the car off the trailer. I think it was about 90% race cars who all had the same idea...